Headers (Tri-Y vs HiPo)

[KaraKedi]

Hi,
I would like to change my stock headres with Tri-Y or HiPo headers.
Accourding to some vintage mustang forums HiPo headers is some advantage to Tri-Y except more performance.

What i'm wanting to DO?
-More power
-Easy install
-No leaking
-Min. maintenance

My car is 289 A code 65 Fastback

What is your suggestions?

Regards

 

[silverbluebp]

I'd say go with the Tri-Y's, I've never had a problem with them leaking or coming loose. They are easy to get on and off too.

I have the set from Thermal Tech Coatings.

 

[D.Hearne]

With any steel tube header, there's always a chance for leakage. No way around that. With the Hi-po mainfolds, there's less of a chance. They WILL last longer than steel tube headers. It's your money. Right now, I have a set of nickle plated tri-y's I bought used off ebay 6 years ago. They've been on my 89 V8 Ranger now for those 6 years. I have had to reweld the Y joints once, but other wise, they've never leaked using Percy's aluminum header gaskets. Best $85 I ever spent.

 

[Edster]

Tri-Ys will give you more performance. However if yo went w/ the Hi-Po manifolds I would port them or send them out to Extrude Hone just to get a little more from them. I do believe the Tri-Ys would be cheaper. I myself have run both and I like the tri'Ys better as far as performance goes. Also if you have power steering you will need a drop down bracket for your slave cylinder otherwise it will hit the headers

 

[rbohm]

i would go with the tri-y's also unless you are going for a totally factory look. and even then the tri-y's are period correct.

 

[other_shoe]

A few more data points on the Tri-Ys.

First, you certainly have to cut the connecting pipe and weld on the fitting that comes with the headers. So you either need to be able to weld, have a friend who can do it, or pay a professional.

Second, they cause problems with accessing the starter. I've heard that headers can cause starter problems, but have not had that experience.

Third, as mentioned, with the headers you will need a different bracket for the power steering cylinder. It's worth noting that this longer bracket is a longer lever exerting force on the bolts and crush nuts that hold it to the frame rail and wall of the engine compartment. Replace all of these with new crush nuts and grade 8 bolts. The mounting points can get badly buggered if one of the fasteners fails. My bracket is now welded on, and I'm not thrilled about it.

Bottom line, there are some inconveniences that come with the Tri-Ys. I couldn't really speak to the differences in performance.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've never had starter problems with Tri-Y's. Not in heat soak nor starter removal. 4 into 1's yea, but not Tri-Y's

 

[other_shoe]

On my '67, it's PITA to get the starter in and out without unbolting the header. That may just be because of the AT cooling lines.

Also, it may just be the low quality of my mid-90s Tri-Y's, but one bolt on either side cannot be screwed into the head. I think if I go with an allenhead bolt I may be able to get it to work, but the head of the bolt hits the tube on the header making it impossible. I am under the impression that there are several different manufacturers, and maybe someone else can comment on who makes a good product.

 

[zookeeper]

You and I definately have different brands of tri-y headers. My Patriot-brand headers leave lots of starter clearance and although I did have to blow $20 on a steering drop bracket, it's in no danger whatsoever of collapsing the frame rail. After I bought Mr Gasket solid aluminum gaskets, they don't leak and even as low as my car is, they do NOT drag. Can't ask for more than that.

 

[KaraKedi]

What about this ?

 

[zookeeper]

For $144 I'm going to guess those are painted, and the paint doesn't last long at all. I paid (I think) $338 for mine and they're ceramic coated. But either way, those are exactly what I'd put on your '65 if it were mine.

 

[other_shoe]

My power steering bracket didn't collapse the frame rail. I was young and didn't know any better and reused the old bolt that held it up top. That bolt sheered and then the crushnuts were yanked out of their holes, which essentially made the holes unusable. The frame rail is otherwise fine.

I'd absolutely go with the ceramic coated -- if I had I'd probably be happier with the whole outcome.

 

[Rusty67]

If you are going to get ceramic coating, make sure they coat them inside and out. If they only coat the outside it will reduce the life of the headers.

 

[mustangman1974]

I have extruded/ ported stock manifolds and it runs pretty good. I have ran it with the headman shorties I bought for my final exhaust install, once this issues I have is solved, and I will say I really don;t notice a difference until about 5 grand the shorties still got a bit more in them then the manifold. The major difference is they are much quieter then the tube headers. Cheap gaskets and only need to be tightened once in a while.