• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Headers (Tri-Y vs HiPo)

  • Thread starter Thread starter KaraKedi
  • Start date Start date Aug 29, 2008

KaraKedi

Member
May 26, 2008
83
0
7
Istanbul/Turkey
Aug 29, 2008
#1
  • Aug 29, 2008
  • #1
Hi,
I would like to change my stock headres with Tri-Y or HiPo headers.
Accourding to some vintage mustang forums HiPo headers is some advantage to Tri-Y except more performance.

What i'm wanting to DO?
-More power
-Easy install
-No leaking
-Min. maintenance

My car is 289 A code 65 Fastback

What is your suggestions?

Regards
 
S

silverbluebp

Member
Aug 13, 2003
119
0
16
Aug 29, 2008
#2
  • Aug 29, 2008
  • #2
I'd say go with the Tri-Y's, I've never had a problem with them leaking or coming loose. They are easy to get on and off too.

I have the set from Thermal Tech Coatings.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Aug 29, 2008
#3
  • Aug 29, 2008
  • #3
With any steel tube header, there's always a chance for leakage. No way around that. With the Hi-po mainfolds, there's less of a chance. They WILL last longer than steel tube headers. It's your money. Right now, I have a set of nickle plated tri-y's I bought used off ebay 6 years ago. They've been on my 89 V8 Ranger now for those 6 years. I have had to reweld the Y joints once, but other wise, they've never leaked using Percy's aluminum header gaskets. Best $85 I ever spent.
 

Edster

Founding Member
Aug 13, 2000
500
1
19
League City, Texas
Aug 31, 2008
#4
  • Aug 31, 2008
  • #4
Tri-Ys will give you more performance. However if yo went w/ the Hi-Po manifolds I would port them or send them out to Extrude Hone just to get a little more from them. I do believe the Tri-Ys would be cheaper. I myself have run both and I like the tri'Ys better as far as performance goes. Also if you have power steering you will need a drop down bracket for your slave cylinder otherwise it will hit the headers
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Aug 31, 2008
#5
  • Aug 31, 2008
  • #5
i would go with the tri-y's also unless you are going for a totally factory look. and even then the tri-y's are period correct.
 
O

other_shoe

Member
May 4, 2007
313
3
19
Aug 31, 2008
#6
  • Aug 31, 2008
  • #6
A few more data points on the Tri-Ys.

First, you certainly have to cut the connecting pipe and weld on the fitting that comes with the headers. So you either need to be able to weld, have a friend who can do it, or pay a professional.

Second, they cause problems with accessing the starter. I've heard that headers can cause starter problems, but have not had that experience.

Third, as mentioned, with the headers you will need a different bracket for the power steering cylinder. It's worth noting that this longer bracket is a longer lever exerting force on the bolts and crush nuts that hold it to the frame rail and wall of the engine compartment. Replace all of these with new crush nuts and grade 8 bolts. The mounting points can get badly buggered if one of the fasteners fails. My bracket is now welded on, and I'm not thrilled about it.

Bottom line, there are some inconveniences that come with the Tri-Ys. I couldn't really speak to the differences in performance.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Aug 31, 2008
#7
  • Aug 31, 2008
  • #7
I've never had starter problems with Tri-Y's. Not in heat soak nor starter removal. 4 into 1's yea, but not Tri-Y's
 
O

other_shoe

Member
May 4, 2007
313
3
19
Aug 31, 2008
#8
  • Aug 31, 2008
  • #8
On my '67, it's PITA to get the starter in and out without unbolting the header. That may just be because of the AT cooling lines.

Also, it may just be the low quality of my mid-90s Tri-Y's, but one bolt on either side cannot be screwed into the head. I think if I go with an allenhead bolt I may be able to get it to work, but the head of the bolt hits the tube on the header making it impossible. I am under the impression that there are several different manufacturers, and maybe someone else can comment on who makes a good product.
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Sep 1, 2008
#9
  • Sep 1, 2008
  • #9
You and I definately have different brands of tri-y headers. My Patriot-brand headers leave lots of starter clearance and although I did have to blow $20 on a steering drop bracket, it's in no danger whatsoever of collapsing the frame rail. After I bought Mr Gasket solid aluminum gaskets, they don't leak and even as low as my car is, they do NOT drag. Can't ask for more than that.
 

KaraKedi

Member
May 26, 2008
83
0
7
Istanbul/Turkey
Sep 1, 2008
#10
  • Sep 1, 2008
  • #10
What about this ?

 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Sep 1, 2008
#11
  • Sep 1, 2008
  • #11
For $144 I'm going to guess those are painted, and the paint doesn't last long at all. I paid (I think) $338 for mine and they're ceramic coated. But either way, those are exactly what I'd put on your '65 if it were mine.
 
O

other_shoe

Member
May 4, 2007
313
3
19
Sep 1, 2008
#12
  • Sep 1, 2008
  • #12
My power steering bracket didn't collapse the frame rail. I was young and didn't know any better and reused the old bolt that held it up top. That bolt sheered and then the crushnuts were yanked out of their holes, which essentially made the holes unusable. The frame rail is otherwise fine.

I'd absolutely go with the ceramic coated -- if I had I'd probably be happier with the whole outcome.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Sep 1, 2008
#13
  • Sep 1, 2008
  • #13
If you are going to get ceramic coating, make sure they coat them inside and out. If they only coat the outside it will reduce the life of the headers.
 
M

mustangman1974

Member
Jan 17, 2004
463
0
16
Sep 1, 2008
#14
  • Sep 1, 2008
  • #14
I have extruded/ ported stock manifolds and it runs pretty good. I have ran it with the headman shorties I bought for my final exhaust install, once this issues I have is solved, and I will say I really don;t notice a difference until about 5 grand the shorties still got a bit more in them then the manifold. The major difference is they are much quieter then the tube headers. Cheap gaskets and only need to be tightened once in a while.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

What's your tow rig?
  • LILCBRA
  • May 31, 2026
  • Other Auto Tech
Replies
3
Views
68
Other Auto Tech May 31, 2026
LILCBRA
L
Engine Need help diagnosing 2 dead cylinders
  • lvgnmz
  • Feb 13, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
3
Views
415
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Feb 13, 2025
Mustang5L5
J
Progress Thread Family member 1989 GT- Backstory and updates
  • JRC99
  • Apr 19, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
15
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Oct 26, 2025
JRC99
J
B
Header Bolt Snapped off Please help
  • Bayless72
  • Sep 19, 2022
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Replies
3
Views
3K
2005 - 2009 Specific Tech Sep 25, 2022
chrlsful
C
Headers vs. Manifolds
  • dz01
  • Feb 17, 2020
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
9
Views
5K
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Feb 25, 2020
Ray65-71-73
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?