Help! 289 engine install

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 13, 2006

#1

• Oct 13, 2006

• #1

I have a 1967 coupe automatic. I am trying to install the original 289. Whats the best way to do this? I have tried a few times with the transmission still in place, I seem to get close but then it just doesnt want to go in. I have tried everything, lifting the frame, or lifting the tranny, lowering the engine, all possibilities. The last time I tried, I was less then an inch away from the block hitting the bell housing. Are there any tips you guys have or tricks to help me on this install? Or should I just pull the transmission and do it that way? Is it that much more difficult to do it that way? I NEEEEEEEED HELP!

 

D

dewdrop

Member

Oct 9, 2005

62

1

9

East Tenn

Oct 13, 2006

#2

• Oct 13, 2006

• #2

help

If you use a carb plate, just be sure the transmission end is downward some. Not level. Should go right in. Need some one to use a floor jack or by hand to level it up as you let the motor down after it clears the firewall. I installed a 428 CJ with the auto trans attached in a 68 shelby the same way. Just take your time and it helps to have another person. It's easier with the front pulleys off, but not nessesary.

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 13, 2006

#3

• Oct 13, 2006

• #3

dewdrop said:

If you use a carb plate, just be sure the transmission end is downward some. Not level. Should go right in. Need some one to use a floor jack or by hand to level it up as you let the motor down after it clears the firewall. I installed a 428 CJ with the auto trans attached in a 68 shelby the same way. Just take your time and it helps to have another person. It's easier with the front pulleys off, but not nessesary.

Click to expand...

First off, what do you mean by carb plate? And that is for when the transmisison is still in the car right? Should I jack the car itself up at all, just leave it sitting on the ground? Thanks........

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Oct 13, 2006

#4

• Oct 13, 2006

• #4

I've done it both with the trans attached and with the engine alone. If you have the trans attached already, do it that way, but here's a couple basics: first, you need to get the car up off the ground a bit, and you need to get a hoist capable of getting the engine and trans high enough to clear the radiator support with the car off the ground. I prefer to use an engine tilter (I don't know the official name) which attaches to the front and rear of the motor in 4 places and has a crank handle on the front to allow you to tilt the motor enough to get it all in there at once. You can sometimes rent or borrow these tools, but I have one I bought at Harbor Freight for something like $29 and it works fine. I'd also leave the crank pulley off until you get the motor in as well. My usual motor install drill is to have the front wheels on my ramps, the rear of the car on axle stands and a friend underneath guiding the trans. You likely need another buddy to work the cherry picker and you can then guide the motor into place.Everyone needs to work together and work slowly and carefully to avoid dropping the motor, tipping over the cherry picker, or worse getting someone hurt or killed. It's very simple, but not the kind of work you want to get in a hurry while doing.

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 13, 2006

#5

• Oct 13, 2006

• #5

zookeeper said:

I've done it both with the trans attached and with the engine alone. If you have the trans attached already, do it that way, but here's a couple basics: first, you need to get the car up off the ground a bit, and you need to get a hoist capable of getting the engine and trans high enough to clear the radiator support with the car off the ground. I prefer to use an engine tilter (I don't know the official name) which attaches to the front and rear of the motor in 4 places and has a crank handle on the front to allow you to tilt the motor enough to get it all in there at once. You can sometimes rent or borrow these tools, but I have one I bought at Harbor Freight for something like $29 and it works fine. I'd also leave the crank pulley off until you get the motor in as well. My usual motor install drill is to have the front wheels on my ramps, the rear of the car on axle stands and a friend underneath guiding the trans. You likely need another buddy to work the cherry picker and you can then guide the motor into place.Everyone needs to work together and work slowly and carefully to avoid dropping the motor, tipping over the cherry picker, or worse getting someone hurt or killed. It's very simple, but not the kind of work you want to get in a hurry while doing.

Click to expand...

The transmission is still in the car, engine is out. If at all possible, I would like to do it this way. But is it easier to take the tranny out then connect then and put them in? Any tips installing the enigine with the tranny in the car, engine not attached to it....

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Oct 13, 2006

#6

• Oct 13, 2006

• #6

Ok, now it gets even easier. You probably want to use a carb plate, like was mentioned earlier. It's simply a plate that bolts on where the carb goes, and has a couple or three holes to attach a chain to for lifting. They are by far the easiest method of lifting. Anyway, you also need to make sure the converter is installed in the trans ALL THE WAY! Do this by turning the converter several (like 5-10 revolutions) times while pushing it into the pump. Make sure you bolt the motor mounts in place as well, then lower it in place with a buddy underneath to guide the motor into the trans. I always make sure the drain plug on the converter and the drain plug hole in the flex plate are both pointed down, that way you don't accidently try to stuff the drain plug into one of the converter bolt holes. Once you get the motor close to the trans, have the underneath helper try to guide the alignment dowels in the block into the holes in the trans case, while at the same time trying to align the converter studs into the flex plate holes. Once you get it close, you can start a couple of the belhousing bolts, but never, ever try to use the bolts to draw the engine and trans together. You will only break the case, or the pump, or both. Don't ask how I know this. You should be able to wiggle, push and shove the trans and engine together without resorting to brute force. Once the engine and trans are square, they'll practically go together by themselves. If not, then keep checking the gap and do whatever you need to to get the gap even and it should be a breeze. Heck, my wife and I had mine in my '68 in under a half hour, and she's less than skilled when it comes to cars!

 

Reactions: David A

T

tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

514

0

0

Big Spring, TX

Oct 13, 2006

#7

• Oct 13, 2006

• #7

It shouldn't be that hard, especially with the tranny already in the car. What are you fouling on? You want the engine tilting back a little. I'm not trying to offend you, but you did take the hood off right?

 

geostang351

Member

Mar 30, 2005

946

0

17

Danb., CT

Oct 13, 2006

#8

• Oct 13, 2006

• #8

I've tried both and have only been successful with the two together. Getting the flex plate and torque convertoer lined up is tough, then the dowl, then bing able to get the bolts through the limited area between the housing and fire wall, then tightening; FOrget that!! I'd do both together.

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 13, 2006

#9

• Oct 13, 2006

• #9

ok, so the engine and tranny are less than an inch together, so i tried to get a bolt going to draw them closer....( Just now read what one of you said not to do) But im still not going no where. Oh and yes, I did take the hood off lol. So no clue what to do now, I ran out of day light and my spot lights burnt out so it will wait till tomorrow. Maybe i need to lower the engine more now? Right now, i got the top two bolts from the housing to the engine part way in, and two on each side part way in, hoping to draw them together, everything seems to be lined up but its just not falling into place. The motor mounts on the engine are just barely touch the mounts on the car, so thats why i may need to lower it a bit. Any ideas? I really dont know what to do, and now one of you said not to draw the engine and trans together with the bolts? SHould this thing just click in now or what?

Thinking back real quick, might sound stupid but im getting a little confused..... should the torque converter be bolted up to the trans first? i had it bolted to the fleplate/engine then lowered teh egine and alligned it, then pushed, and thats where im at now..... HELP!

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Oct 13, 2006

#10

• Oct 13, 2006

• #10

Bingo, that's the problem! Remove the engine, unbolt the converter from the motor and slide it into the trans. Then turn it several times while pushing back until you are sure it is in the pump and can't go back any further. Then slide the motor back in the car and it'll likely go right in once you get the converter studs lined up with the holes. Just make sure the drain for the converter is lined up, and don't force it.

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 13, 2006

#11

• Oct 13, 2006

• #11

Thanks zookeeper! I probably would have gotten no where, and i sorta had a feeling drawing them together would be a bad idea. Im going to take the engine back out tomorrow and do what you said. It would make more sense that way, althought bolting the converter to the flexplate might be a pain. Do all converters have drains, not sure if i remember seeing one, but i will find out tmrw.... Thanks to everyone for the help, if i run into any more issues, i will be back on here lol. Gotta love stangnet!

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Oct 14, 2006

#12

• Oct 14, 2006

• #12

Yep, there's a drain plug on your converter. ONce you get the converter off, look for a small plug that you can take off with (I think) a 1/2 or 9/16 wrench), it'll line up with a hole in the flex plate that's a bit bigger than the converter bolt holes. Anyway, once you get the converter all the way in (remember to spin it by hand while pushing back) and the motor bolted up, and the converter studs into the flex plate, then remove the spark plugs and you can turn the motor over easily by hand with a breaker bar or ratchet attched to the balancer bolt to gain access to tighten the converter nuts thru the access plate at the bottom. Good Luck!

 

geostang351

Member

Mar 30, 2005

946

0

17

Danb., CT

Oct 16, 2006

#13

• Oct 16, 2006

• #13

How'd we make out?

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Oct 16, 2006

#14

• Oct 16, 2006

• #14

I was wondering the same thing. Any updates?

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 17, 2006

#15

• Oct 17, 2006

• #15

Still having issues........ I can't seem to get everything lined up. Do you have to bolt the engine in the motor mounts first? When I try to line the flexplate to the converter, I can't go anywhere because the motor mounts are keping the engine from coming in closer. Then when i try to get the engine in the motor mounts, the flexplate is too close to the converter and I can't line up the holes. Any other advice. A neighbor that use to work on cars said I could try dropping the tranny, then bolt the engine in the car, then connect the tranny and bolt it back up and connect the linkage, etc. I am seriously considering this because Im having too many issues the other way. Not sure why I'm having such a hard time.

 

GoinBroke

New Member

Jul 13, 2006

109

0

0

Joliet, Il

Oct 17, 2006

#16

• Oct 17, 2006

• #16

You should have a floor jack under the tranny so you can adjust the height of the tranny and the engine hoist to adjust the height of the engine. Last week I had to do this and found leaving the mounts bolted to the frame worked good in that I had some horizontal movement to help the alignment entry. Where are you located?

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 17, 2006

#17

• Oct 17, 2006

• #17

I live in CA. So you took the mounts of the engine and bolted those first? I have been using a jack under the tranny, I was thinking lowering the tranny as much as possible, then jacking up the frame of the car might help me get an angle on bolting up the engine to the motor mounts then i can hopefully jack the tranny back up and line up the holes. So were you saying that you tookl the motor mounts off the engine? Thanks for the help. Where are you Zookeeper and geostang? lol... I can't wait to get the engine in, I need to drive this thing soon!

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 17, 2006

#18

• Oct 17, 2006

• #18

I'm working on getting the engine in once again. With the tranny still in the car, should i be disconnecting the drive shaft or tranny crossmember? Maybe this is why Im having such a hard time......

 

ras50gt

Member

Oct 25, 2005

200

2

19

Oct 17, 2006

#19

• Oct 17, 2006

• #19

As of 9:06 pm tonight....ENGINE IS IN AND ALL BOLTED UP!!!!!!!!! I was just messing around with angles and I'm pretty sure luck was on my side, everything seemed to fall into place. And I did it all by myself, may have taken all day but it feels good..... Major thanks to everyone that helped.

 

T

truck90278

New Member

Jun 4, 2006

382

1

0

Redondo Beach, CA

Oct 18, 2006

#20

• Oct 18, 2006

• #20

Congratulations!! It does feel good when you make it happen. Where in Cal do you live. We're in Redondo Beach