Help! '79 Latch Striker rattles like Morse Code

[Lscman]

I just inherited a '79 Mustang "garage queen" Turbo from my mommy & I'm trying to fix it up....... I was hoping to find some experts here who found a way to correct this issue.

My 1979 Mustang rear hatch sounds like morse code coming from a massive speaker fed by a 500W amp.

In case folks aren't aware, the rear hatch strikers were re-engineered at least 3 times during Fox production. I have the early one that looks like 1/4" steel rod formed into a hoop. It is NOT the more familiar single post unit that looks like a regular door striker. This early hoop unit was used on '78-'80 Fairmont Wagons too.

I'm hoping somebody found a way to adapt the later style striker to these early cars or found a way to stop the rattle. I have not had an opportunity to see how much sheetmetal was changed to accept the newer strikers and latches.

The rubber stoppers are properly adjusted and the latch feels nice and tight. I've readjusted the striker up and down and left and right with no good results. The striker is not worn on this low mile garage queen.

Thanks for any replies, thoughts, ideas or flame.

 

[Daggar]

Replace the hatch seal. That should tighten things up nicely.

 

[795.0pacecar]

Mine rattles too. I just got used to it.

 

[Lscman]

I'll try putting up with it after I exhaust all other possibilities. I agree that a new hatch seal will minimize noise for a year or two. The noise occurs when the weight of the hatch assembly causes the metal latch assembly to momentarily compress against the striker and lose preload, when you hit road bumps. This is the clatter you hear. If you press down hard on the early hatch system, you'll feel the latch lose it's preload and clearance/noise results.

The early '78-'80 striker design relies heavily upon the seal for compression preload force, as the widely-spaced adjustable bumpers are not adequate. The hatch literally flexes between them under it's own weight and momentum. The oldest latch design does not prevent the hatch from closing further during heavy road vibration, which results in metal-to-metal latch contact and clatter. The hoop latch assembly strictly prevents the hatch from opening, not closing further. This is also why the paint wears off the body on early cars, where the hatch meets the chassis.

The later post-type striker mechanism is a positive clamp design that does not allow the hatch to lift or compress at all, once it's clamped. When properly adjusted, the single post design will not vibrate even when the door seal is completely removed.

Now, if somebody can tell us if the later latch assy can be adapted.......

 

[795.0pacecar]

I would also like to know if the later hatch striker design can be adapted.

 

[Daggar]

I'll try putting up with it after I exhaust all other possibilities. I agree that a new hatch seal will minimize noise for a year or two. The noise occurs when the weight of the hatch assembly causes the metal latch assembly to momentarily compress against the striker and lose preload, when you hit road bumps. This is the clatter you hear. If you press down hard on the early hatch system, you'll feel the latch lose it's preload and clearance/noise results.

The early '78-'80 striker design relies heavily upon the seal for compression preload force, as the widely-spaced adjustable bumpers are not adequate. The hatch literally flexes between them under it's own weight and momentum. The oldest latch design does not prevent the hatch from closing further during heavy road vibration, which results in metal-to-metal latch contact and clatter. The hoop latch assembly strictly prevents the hatch from opening, not closing further. This is also why the paint wears off the body on early cars, where the hatch meets the chassis.

The later post-type striker mechanism is a positive clamp design that does not allow the hatch to lift or compress at all, once it's clamped. When properly adjusted, the single post design will not vibrate even when the door seal is completely removed.

Now, if somebody can tell us if the later latch assy can be adapted.......

Dayum... and I thought I was long winded. LOL

Yes... we all understand that the latch is junk. Have you looked into pulling one from a later year fox? I'm sure that you may need to do some fabrication. I've never given it enough thought to have actually compared the two assemblies. Here's a bump for ya though.

One other suggestion is that you may want to give the same question a shot over on Foureyedpride.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/index.php