Help a Rookie in Need

IMO the intake and tb(I'd go 70-75mm) won't do you a ton of good without swapping heads (e7s don't flow too great) but if that's not in the budget then you'll still be better than stok. 4.10s may begin to annoy you but if it's not a DD then eh what the hell, go for it.
And if your still bored after that....SPRAY it.(just noticed the car was a 93 (hyper pistons) so spraying may not be a good idea,your call)
Stock bottom end MAY take a 125 shot all day long

good luck, post pics too

Gears first.

Then start building the motor....Cam, Heads etc.

IMO= In My Opinion

If you want to get a throttle body, get one that is atleast as big as the opening on the intake manifold.

For example, if the intake has a 70mm opening then get atleast a 70mm throttle body.

I would get the MAF atleast as big or a little bigger.

Dallas1993Vert said:

How much do E7 Heads Run?
Do I need a Polished Intake right away?

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you already have e7 heads, they are the stock heads.
the holley intake will be more than enough

Gears.

You'll prob need the DS with 3.73's or 4.10's but if you don't, you don't really need it.

Aftermarket catted X (or H) sounds good to me. The stocker is a choker.

94-95 Mustang MAF (do you have a spare from your Cobra?). It will outflow the stock injectors.

LT's are a bit overrated for stockish applications IMHO. The stockers do ok till you go with different heads.

You shouldn't need a chip/tune till you do a kinda radical HCI (foxes aren't as finicky as your Cobra was with mods. The Fox EEC is much more RPM based [the 94-95's are mostly load-based]).

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/636360-whats-up-everyone.html?showpost=

The sticky up at the top of the tech forum has a lot of useful info. Including the answer to your question.

manual or auto car??

3.55 gear ( The hardcore guys alway push for the 4.10,but even a STREET NON-DAILY DRIVER will goes on the freeway more then once in their lifetime,it is just too much for me to see 2800-3000 rpm at 65mph freeway speed.
High Stall converter ( This with the gear will wake up any AOD car, I run a B&M Holeshot 2400,they are not very expensive and is a good stock replacement. Again the brand choice is yours but don't go too high of a stall *. ) * Transmission cooler is a must if switch to a higher stall converter,but it is alway good to have one on a AOD car even if you did not .
Aftermarket valve body or shift kit ( For a clean and crisp shifting of your tranny,you could even hold it in gear,lot of choice out there.
2.5" cat back exhaust ( Flowmaster,Mac,Dynomax etc,most base those on how the exhausts sounds,the hp gain is very close ).
2.5" H or X pipes with high flow cats ( I run a H Pipes WO/Cat before and when I switch back to the catted one,I noticed there was a noticeable gain of low end torques,I think AOD car run better with catted exhaust ).
Shortie header 1.5" ( Stay with the name brand as the fits and finish are better,you can pick those up for cheap used now days ).
GT40/Cobra style upper/lower intake ( I chose those because it it available everywhere for cheap and everything bolted back on ).
70mm throttle body ( Opening of most aftermarket intakes are 70mm,same as the GT40 style,no need to go larger unless you are pushing 400rwhp ).
70-75mm Mass Air Sensor ( Match to your Injector size,anything bigger with just simple bolted on parts is a waste and harder to fit ).
Stock injector ( Those should be good at this power level,go to 24 or 30 if you are getting Alum heads or supercharger ).
Stock cam ( Good all around cam )
Stock head ( Good if you are not planning any major engine works ).
K&N Air filter ( Flat panel stock type re-using stock filter air box or aftermarker cold air intake goes into inner fender,very helpful and will pick up a few HP ).
Air Silencer ( Removes it will gain you around 3 hp and it is cheap as in FREE ).
Electric Fan ( Free up around 10 hp,less drag on the engine,just make sure it have the airflow to cool down your engine,the Ford 3.8 Taurus Fan is a great hot rod trick and the Black Magic Mustang spec fan should be ok for the cooler parts of the country ).
Lightweight Drag Wheel ( Weld,Centerline etc. Stock wheels are heavy. You could saved over 100lbs with those wheels front and back, and you can get them in good shape and cheap. Local sale is better,as shipping could adds up real fast ).
Timing ( Most car will gain a few hp if the timing is bump up,it is free hp and as every car is different,you have to play around to see what your engine likes. Good gas is a must now ).
MSD 6A or 6AL and a better coil ( Hotter spark and better burning of the mixture in the combuston chambers,gain a few hp ).
Tune up- New spark plug wires,plugs,fuel filter,cap and rotor,oil and filter etc,etc. It is now 2009. Seen a few Fox body out there still running the same OEM spark plug wires.

Those are all basic types of bolt-on or engine and transmission work. It will help your Mustang goes faster and build a base for the more major build up. Most by themself give you a few hp and torque gain,but it all adds up in the end. Throw a Supercharger pushing 9psi on top of it and you will have a very fun and fast street car. Best of all,your car should be still emission legal and you won't pull your hair out to put it together. Everythings on the list just about using stock bolt holes or mounting bracket.

Dallas1993Vert said:

Hey guys I truly appreciate the help... I do not have a MAF from my cobra but I can find one pretty easy on ebay... So I am thinking since you are referring to a Cobra MAF then a 70mm should be fine, correct?

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Yep. The 70 mm 1994-1995 MAF (it's the same MAF for v6's, GT's and Cobras) flows more air than 19 pound injectors can use.

im in the same boat, ill take some advice too!

I just bought a 93 SSP LX Notch. 302, gt-40's, headers to straight pipes to a pair of magnaflows, s-trim supercharger, short shifter, elec. fan, msd ign., stock intake, fuel pump, 24lb injectors, 73mm mass air,adustable rockers, blower cam., rear diff. has a 3.31 sticker but the previous owner said 3.73..can't confirm don't know how to check. That's as much as i know. I was driving to the dyno shop when i was in third about 3-4k rpm when a fuel line bursted. I saw that the lines were rated for low psi.replaed it with a 100 psi hose..ok, my question is that im not familiar with how to tune the engine.

Should Start from scratch or just take it to dyno shop. I dont know what to expect from a dyno shop either. I want it for a daily driver..just need some advise to get me on the right track. This is my first Ford. I always had imports before. Frustrated because im afraid to break something..

sleepy93 said:

I just bought a 93 SSP LX Notch. 302, gt-40's, headers to straight pipes to a pair of magnaflows, s-trim supercharger, short shifter, elec. fan, msd ign., stock intake, fuel pump, 24lb injectors, 73mm mass air,adustable rockers, blower cam., rear diff. has a 3.31 sticker but the previous owner said 3.73..can't confirm don't know how to check. That's as much as i know. I was driving to the dyno shop when i was in third about 3-4k rpm when a fuel line bursted. I saw that the lines were rated for low psi.replaed it with a 100 psi hose..ok, my question is that im not familiar with how to tune the engine.

Should Start from scratch or just take it to dyno shop. I dont know what to expect from a dyno shop either. I want it for a daily driver..just need some advise to get me on the right track. This is my first Ford. I always had imports before. Frustrated because im afraid to break something..

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Whenever you put a power adder such as your S-trim on the Mustang,you will have so much less room for errors when you are under boost. I think you might be pushing around 350-370rwhp with the stock pulley as it is right now and with a Intake and Heads upgrade another 50-70 hps could be had. That is like 500 hp at the crank,which is pushing the limit on the stock block.
Spend the $$$$ at a good dyno shop,it is more then knowing what the peak hp and torque is. Knowing what the fuel/air ratio under boost and be able to corrects it along with the timing are the main factor that your motor will live or die. You most likely will need larger fuel injector and a Inline pump. Any idea what the Intank fuel pump is rated at ? Those question will be ask.
What MSD Ign do you have? You will need something to dial back the timing under boost,such as a MSD Boost Timing Master that plug into the 6A or 6AL. Or better yet the 6AL with the build in BTM. But that one is expensive.
Do a search on the forum,I think you could check the ratio of the rear end gear by counting how much revolutions the wheel makes by hand turning it with the car on jacks. There is a formula for it. The gear ratio is stamp on the gear itself too. Not sure about a 3.31 for a 8.8 axle,someone else might have some insight on that.
Buying someone else project is never fun,you never know how many corners the last owner makes when they had the car. EFI car need high pressure fuel hoses while the fuel pressure on a carb car is less then half of that.

HISSIN50 said:

LT's are a bit overrated for stockish applications IMHO. The stockers do ok till you go with different heads.

You shouldn't need a chip/tune till you do a kinda radical HCI (foxes aren't as finicky as your Cobra was with mods. The Fox EEC is much more RPM based [the 94-95's are mostly load-based]).

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That must be why 99% of stock motor 12 sec cars have long tubes. For once someone is headed in the right direction, don't steer him away.

Agree on the chip. The SCT chip will just allow the car to be dyno tuned. That will not be much help until you go with heads and a cam, boost, etc.

time only said:

3.55 gear ( The hardcore guys alway push for the 4.10,but even a STREET NON-DAILY DRIVER will goes on the freeway more then once in their lifetime,it is just too much for me to see 2800-3000 rpm at 65mph freeway speed.

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Seems like the newbie has a better idea of what's going on than the people trying to help. The 3.55s in my stick car are doggy, can't imagine how bad they would be with an auto. The 4.10s will really wake it up.



Here's my advice.
4.10s
Long tubes
X-pipe
any straight through muffler (no chambered slowmaster junk)
elec fan
timing at 14-18 degrees depending on what your car likes
k&n panel filter, no air silencer
75-80mm mass air
Alum driveshaft
Drag wheels skinnies on the front and drag radials out back.

That's some basics to really wake up the stocker, trust me, mine ran quite well. There's many h/c/i cars on here that would be a hurtin unit.

If you would like to get more involved, a Cobra or Exploder intake would probably be better suited for a stock motor than a Systemax. The Systemax would be better for a h/c/i car. Run a 70mm throttle body.

1.7 rockers and retarding the stock cam 4 degrees can wake it up a decent amount too.

A higher stall converter and shift kit would really wake up that slushbox too.