Help Code 18

karthief said:

You mean timing?

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jrichker said:

Possible spun balancer...

Harmonic balancer check to see if it has spun or moved the timing marks

Before you waste time and money replacing a balancer, make sure that it needs replacing....
Spend 30 minutes and $7.50 to save you $60. You can't get a better deal than that anywhere...

Prep step:
Joe R’s note: Timing tape (strip of adhesive backed paper with timing marks printed on it) is available from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163594/overview/ use it instead of a degree wheel. The cost is about $5 plus shipping

Clean the balancer rim up real good with acetone or paint thinner. Try not to get the acetone or paint thinner on anything but the balancer rim; it could damage the rubber mounting ring. Some cotton balls or a wadded up ball of paper towel may be the best application tools. Let whatever solvent you used dry completely and then apply the timing tape.
Line the TDC mark up on the tape with the TDC make on the balancer; make sure it is stuck down good.


TDC location process courtesy of Michael Yount
If you're trying to find ACTUAL tdc for cam installation/degreeing, follow the steps below:

Positive stop – obtain an old spark plug for the Ford engine – most of us have at least one laying around. Put it in your vice, and with a tool of destruction you deem appropriate – cut off the ground tip and bust up the ceramic around the center electrode. Keep pounding to get the ceramic and center electrode removed so you’ve got a good ¾” or so of hollow space inside what used to be the ‘business’ end of the spark plug. If you happen to break the ceramic on the other end of the spark plug, don’t worry about it. Once you’ve got a nice hollow space in the tip of the plug, take a 5/16” tap, and cut threads inside that end of the plug. I found that diameter to go right in without any drilling required. Once you’ve cut threads, screw in a 5/16" bolt about 1.5” to 2” long. Then take your hack saw and cut the head off the bolt. Wouldn’t hurt to take your file/grinder and dress up the freshly cut surface so no sharp edges or shrapnel enter the combustion chamber. Also clean up the threads on the plug so that it easily screws into and out of the plug hole.

Determining TDC – remove the passenger side valve cover. Rotate the engine (socket on crank bolt) until the #1 piston is down the cylinder on the intake stroke. Unscrew the spark plug in that cylinder, and replace it with the positive stop you just made. Only screw the positive stop in hand tight. Install your cam degree wheel and pointer (no easy task in some cases as harmonic balancer and other accessories will have to be removed). You may want to remove all spark plugs at this point because it will make it easier to smoothly turn the engine over in small increments. GENTLY rotate the engine clockwise until the piston comes to rest against the stop. Note the degree wheel reading. GENTLY rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the piston comes to rest against the stop. Note the degree wheel reading. TDC is exactly half way between these readings. Calculate where that position is on the degree wheel, remove the piston stop from the cylinder, and rotate the engine to TDC as you calculated it. You are now at true TDC.

After you have done that, make sure the TDC mark on the balancer now lines up with the timing pointer. If it doesn't line up then replace the balancer.
If it does line up, you need to look elsewhere for your problem.

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jrichker said:

Code 96 for 86-90 model 5.0 Mustang – KOEO- Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits. The fuel pump lost power at some time while the ignition switch was in the run position. The main power feed to the pump is what is losing power.

Look for a failing fuel pump relay, bad connections or broken wiring. The fuel pump relay is located under the passenger seat. On Mass Air Conversions, the signal lead that tells the computer that the fuel pump has power may not have been wired correctly.
See http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html

Look for power at the fuel pump - the fuel pump has a connector at the rear of the car with a pink/black wire and a black wire that goes to the fuel pump. The pink/black wire should be hot when the test connector is jumpered to the test position. . To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground.


86-90 Models:
Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. Good voltage there, then the fuel pump body to tank wiring harness connector is the likely culprit since it is getting power. No voltage there, check the Orange/Lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Keep in mind that the relay wiring and socket can also cause intermittent problems. Clean the relay socket with non-flammable brake parts cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. If you find damaged wiring at the relay socket, replacement pigtail socket assemblies are available at the auto parts stores. Be sure to solder the wires and cover the solder joints with heat shrink tubing if you replace the relay socket.

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Raul m. said:

How did you get rid of code 18?

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Raul m. said:

I installed a new distributor and it still turns off after 5 or 10 seconds. I take the spout off and car stays on.

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