help me choose rear end setup

[MeanGreen94]

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My 100,000 miler GT recently got a motor and tranny swap. My hp and tq are both about 500 and Im running with a brand new Tremec 3550. Obviously my stock rear end (w/ 373's) is the weak link here. Im looking for the most affordable, maintance friendly rear end set up that will support apprx 650 hp ( Im gonna add a 150 shot in the near future). Im gonna replace the axles too. I dont want a spool. The car is driven less than 50 miles per week and it will see the very occassional track session, possibly with slicks. Any suggestions? Also, What is the advantage disadvantage to C-Clip eliminators?

 

[SlowGT]

I've got a SuperStang 9". Don't know what shipping would be. Only issue I had was that he's very hard to get a hold of by phone. Lucky for me he's only 25 minutes away. I took an 8.8 for him to upgrade and ended up with the whole 9" setup instead. I think he's a good guy to deal with and he definitely knows his sh&%. Ron Showers is the man you're looking for if you call. I know he's had guys fly in from all over the country for custom street rod fabrication/repair. I've got his catalog and I believe everything you'll need is listed/shown on the website. Good luck.

 

[TIMMY2734]

The 9" will take more power to turn , so its just something to keep in mind.
If you dont want a spool, how bout a detroit locker? Super strong, long as your willing to put up with some noises. If you dont want that , an eaton posi, auburn or the 31 spline truck diff would be the next step.

The biggest disadvantage to c clip eliminators is that some will leak. Some dont have a problem, some do. You could also weld some 9" ends on, which will serve the same purpose as the eliminators. You obviously know that you'll need one or the other.... get the tubes welded while your at it as well.

 

[MeanGreen94]

SlowGT, thanks for the suggestion. I checked out the site, prices look reasonable but Im not looking to replace my entire housing and Id rather work with a local shop. S. Florida has many reputable shops.
Timmy2374, I dont care about noise, I just want strength and a low maintanence setup. So a detroit locker is definately an option. I look into pricing. The truck option sounds like the cheapest way to go. What trucks could be possible donners? Do u know anyone using a truck diff in there stang? How do/did they like it? How strong/ reliable is it in a 650 hp setup? As far as c-clips go, Any car runnin 10.99 hast to have em right? Or if I weld in 9" ends will that be ok. It all may be just wishfull thinking casue I dont know if Im gonna be in the 10's with my setup and a 150 shot, but I should be pretty close.

 

[QDRHRSE]

Just get good axles and a good posi. The trick with that kind of HP is to not let your car hook 100% let the tires spin a tiny bit and you won't break anything. C clip eliminators keep the axles from sliding out it they break. No real advantages or disadvantages...maybe some leaking. Somebody suggested welding the tubes- that's a good idea too. I should do that........

 

[TIMMY2734]

Well, at a ceratin point they are needed to pass nhra tech, at least most tracks. Some do some dont. You can also look at it as a safety factor. Period... If you dont care about the noise, Detroit locker all the way. I personally wouldnt look twice at the truck posi.

 

[MeanGreen94]

If I weld the tubes can I run at the track without c-clips if/when Im runnin 10.99.

 

[TIMMY2734]

They have nothing to do with each other. The c clips are in your diff at the ends of the axles themselves. Youd be welding the tubes to the housings. Not expensove at all.

 

[MeanGreen94]

I guess what Im trying to ask is, if I weld 9" ends on, will that prevent the axles from coming out if the c-clips break, therefore making the welds and alternative to c-clip eliminators?

 

[SlowGT]

The 9" will take more power to turn , so its just something to keep in mind.

That might be the case if you're using a posi unit with standard axles. I've got a lightweight spool along with gundrilled & star flanged axles. The weight of the rotating hardware in my setup is less than the weight of my factory 8.8 components.

 

[TIMMY2734]

If you put 9" ends on, you do not need c clips. Same purpose/principal of eliminators. Welding the tubes will just strengthen the rear itself and its cheap to do.

I thought that because of the angle the pinion is at to the ring gear, that more teeth touch the ring gear. Thus, taking more power to turn. Not exactly sure how or what but i think im somewhere in the ballpark

 

[SlowGT]

I thought that because of the angle the pinion is at to the ring gear, that more teeth touch the ring gear. Thus, taking more power to turn. Not exactly sure how or what but i think im somewhere in the ballpark

I believe I've heard that somewhere before, too. If that's true, then it would also hold true that more contact area means less stress per tooth ==> less likely to break/chip any. I think for the increased strength/reliability of the 9" setup, it's worth the sacrifice of a couple of extra ft/lbs to turn it.

 

[TIMMY2734]

Well the strenth is a given. But for his power levels, an 8.8 will be more than plenty.

 

[MeanGreen94]

Thanks for all the helpfull info. Im gonna start shopping around. I agree that a good 8.8 setup will be plenty strong for my application. I cant wait to get this car all dialed in and track ready.

 

[89MustangGX]

I think if the application you described is accurate, and you do plan to run with slicks, and you want the car to work right -- you should look into a spool.

I don't know how well/how long a differential will hold up to that much power and a good hook. Besides, the spool is the cheapest way to go.

 

[MeanGreen94]

I know the spool is an option too, and it is definately cost effective, but I drive the car on the street a few days a week around town and it will only see the track a few times a year. I dont have slicks now, I have Nitto drag radials on the car. But I probalby will put slicks on the car later on when I go to the track . Do u run a spool on a street car?

 

[TIMMY2734]

How much street driving do you do? Is it just cruising? If you drive around with a soft sidewall, like an ET Street or slick and dont plan on paralell parking or anything, you should be fine. Backing up and trying to cut a turn is probably the hardest thing that youd encounter. Its nice piece of mind as well that everything is tied together back there.

 

[89MustangGX]

I have one in my red car now, which I drive on the street. It's not a daily driver, but I have no problem putting some miles on it.

I wouldn't run one on a daily driver (just because of rain and tire issues), but with the ability to drive it only on nice days and run a soft sidewall tire, the only time you'll even notice it is slow turns or parking. I have no problem reccomending one if that stuff's ok with you. I'd suggest riding in a car with one just so you know what to expect, but no problems at all with it.

 

[MeanGreen94]

My car gets driven at the most 3-4 days a week and just around town. Ive never driven it farther than 11 miles from home. When my nittos are done I would consider an ET street if it would make the spool more forgiving and I decide to go with the spool. In S. Florida summer, we get the daily afternoon rain shower thing. I dont mind it, but if my wife ever drives the car, I wouldnt want her in the rain with a spool.
Thats a good suggestion. Ill ask around my circle of Mustang enthusiasts and try and drive in a street car with a spool.

 

[TIMMY2734]

How many track visits do you really plan on making, or racing it for that matter. If its alot, id lean towards the spool. But if its just more of a street cruiser with maybe 3-5 track visits a year, id probably opt for the detroit locker.