Help me decide on heads

joeyd0730

Member
May 22, 2005
130
0
16
queens, ny
seems that my ported e7's with crane springs. are not cutting it anymore. i need some advice on which heads to purchase, the guy that tuned the car recommended victor jr heads. whats your opinions. the car made 390rwhp and 380 ftlps at the rear wheel on a mustang dyno with the stock heads, here is a list on eninge mods.
306 w/forged pistons
eagle crank and rods
dss windage tray
e cam, 1.7 rollers
efi spyder intake, s-trim making 12 lbs
42lb injectors. 80mm tb, 73mm mass air
my a/f is 11.5 across the board
thanks in advance for any help.
 
The girdle will keep the block together, but not intact, if that makes sense. Basically it will hold the two pieces together so there isn't a lot of internal carnage or exiting of parts, but the block can still split.

I'm with others, just turn up the wick a little or opt for a beefy block and the heads at the same time.
 
The girdle and bolts won't help the block any. If you put the heads on there and split the block, then you ruin the heads. Now you need a block and another set of heads. Either do a block and the heads, or run a little more boost and be happy. Don't risk ruining good parts unless you have money to throw away.
 
Correct me if I am wrong but my take on the DSS is just a dressed up stock block. They are referring to World Products, Ford racing(A4, R, Boss blocks) and the Dart. All of which will probably set you back 2k but are pretty good to 1000hp depending on which block you choose.
Kevin
 
it most likely be fine....but as everyone said, your running on borrowed time! my car is making close to 500hp and my block has not been phased yet. That being said it is a crap shoot.....some hold until 600, others break at 400
 
I got it. it looks like to engine will come out again, reason i say this is during the tune anytime the car was reved passed 4500 rpm i had major blow-by from the valve covers. being i have the spyder intake there is no pcv valve, so i opted to vent the crankcase better by adding a second vent on the drivers side valve cover.
so i was told the rings didnt seat correctly. the motor only has 500 miles on it, could it be possible that the motor isnt broken in correctly and this is why i am getting the blowby? i know it wasnt the best thing to do but i have been running 5 quarts of syntetic oil and 1 quart of lucas since the rebuild. i have a 6qt pan. is there anyway that this could be causing the blowby? i was thinking of just running 6 qts of reg 10-40 and see the results. i did a compression test and the numbers are great. i am just throwing things out there to decide if i should pull motor, or just run with it till dooms day. i am edging towards a new block, but its a shame to get rid of this one being all the money dumped into the short block. i do have a great tune on the current motor. Thanks for all the input on this subject, joeyd