Help me decode Time Slips

mackey

Active Member
Jan 25, 2003
1,284
1
38
Beverly, Massachusetts
r.t .896
60' 2.48
330' 6.629
1/8 10.072
MPH 70
1/4 15.547 @ 90.40

run2
r/t 1.133
60' 2.624
330' 6.715
1/8 10.178
MPH 70.50
1/4 15.650 @ 89.28

Do I Possibly have a 14.999 run in the car? I have just a few mods. CAI, K&N, Flowmasters. Also ANy good launching techniques? 245 street tires. I think both runs i started a 2000rpm launch, there was no spinning involved at all. Just chirped second.
 
Did you every check your timing? Mine was at 8*. Try running at the factory 10* if you don't want to go to a higher octane gas. Also, your 60' times suck :nonono: :notnice: Practice, Practice, Practice :) Try running the front tires a 40psi and the rears at 20psi at the drag strip. You say you are not loosing traction at the line. I think maybe you need to get on it a little harder to get on the edge of traction. You also want to leave on the third yellow light on the tree. That will help your R/T. You would be wise to get a shifter with end stops to prevent premature damage of the tranny's shift forks. I love my UPR Blue Thunder shifter :nice:
 
Ok, you just need to work on your driving skills. Your car has potential for high maybe mid 14s.
1 - Since you've only been driving a stick for 2 months you need to get used to driving a stick....normal driving.
2 - You'd want to look into getting a nice short-throw shifter like a Pro 5.0 or Steeda Tri-ax. It helps you shift quicker, keeps you from missing the 2-3 shift, and it saves the life of your tranny.
3 - Practice running your car hard. Like shifting quicker, launching, shift points, etc. When you get good at that then you can move up to power shifting....if you're feeling brave. We'll explain later. :D

Good luck and have fun! :nice: You'll get beeter in no time.
 
I'm VERY surprised to hear that you are leaving at 2000 without wheel spin and getting a 2.4 60' Something doesn't add up here at all. Are you sure you have the throttle all the way in??? With a 60' that bad its hard to even guess at what your car is capable of. Figure about 1.5-2 tenths drop in ET for ever 1 tenth reduction in the 60'.

A stock 94-95 coupe 5 speed is capable of mid-high 14's at 92-94mph BONE STOCK if the track elevation isn't real high and you don't try running it when its 100* out and 100% humidity. Get to the track early, pop your hood, let the car cool as much as possible, air the rear tires down to 25lbs (for street tires), have the fronts at ~40lbs, remove items like the spare and jack that are not needed, and shift as fast as you can. With the stock gears you will only have to shift twice. And to answer your question, you will shift into 2nd AFTER the 60' markw ith the stock gears. I shift right at or slightly before it with my car and my 4.10's... but that is with a 1.65 60'
 
I've heard it said that the timing starts when your wheel leaves the timing beam, not when the light turns green. Is that right? Sooooo, if I sit there for five seconds my R/T will suck but it won't be reflected in the 60', 1/8, and 1/4 data? Am I understanding that correct?
 
with 60ft times that bad ,I would think you are spinning........also are you speed shifting?....if not learn how to do it,it will help your times alot....air your tires down to 20-25psi,hold the car at 2500-3000 rpms,dump the clutch but DO NOT GET IN THE GAS until the car gets rolling,then kinda ease into it.....also with street tires a 5 min burnout is completely useless,just do a quick "dry-hop" to clean the tires off....and like everyone else said.....practice,practice,practice......you'll get there...have fun!
 
94tang said:
hold the car at 2500-3000 rpms,dump the clutch but DO NOT GET IN THE GAS until the car gets rolling,then kinda ease into it


Are you being serious? If it doesn't stall it will spin and then bog doing itthat way, wouldn't it? On street tires mastering clutch slip is the key. I am going to make an in car video of launching and shifting the way I do it. I've cut 1.91 60's on normal street tires (launching at 2500) and 1.66 60's on drag radials (launching at 4500) so i think I'm doing something right... :shrug:


What do you guys mean by speed shifting? Shifting as fast as you can while lifting off the throttle, or POWERSHIFTING meaning shfiting as fast as you can while staying in the throttle? I do not powershift (meaning I lift off the throttle between shifts) but I rip those gears as fast as I humanly can. That is one place where a lot of newbies need work. I can't tell you how many times I'll watch someone new race and it sounds like their grandmother going down the track as you can literally count in your head the second between each shift. That's a lot of time wasted.
 
Killercanary said:
Are you being serious? If it doesn't stall it will spin and then bog doing itthat way, wouldn't it? On street tires mastering clutch slip is the key. I am going to make an in car video of launching and shifting the way I do it. I've cut 1.91 60's on normal street tires (launching at 2500) and 1.66 60's on drag radials (launching at 4500) so i think I'm doing something right... :shrug:
Can you explain to me the clutch slip and how to do it? Should i just drop the clutch or just slip it out?
 
speed shifting/powershifting=same thing,foot never leaves the carpet.Yes I was being serious about the launch technique.Car wont stall,but yes it will spin if you get in the gas too quick.
 
speed shifting or I have always heard it speed matching is diff. from power shifting, speed matching is nothing like power shifting. matching has more to do with synco's and what the trans will shift at without a clutch (have done it when the clutch is burnt out/bad before). Power shifting is the no-lift method.

If you are leaving at 2,000 rpms there has to be something amis, with 14* timeing and leaving at 2,000rpms I got avg. 60 of 2.1 and a best of 1.9 on 245 street tires.

What are you shifting at?
 
blksn955.o said:
speed shifting or I have always heard it speed matching is diff. from power shifting, speed matching is nothing like power shifting. matching has more to do with synco's and what the trans will shift at without a clutch (have done it when the clutch is burnt out/bad before). Power shifting is the no-lift method.


In TN we call it Speed Shifting
 
mackey said:
r.t .896
60' 2.48
330' 6.629
1/8 10.072
MPH 70
1/4 15.547 @ 90.40

run2
r/t 1.133
60' 2.624
330' 6.715
1/8 10.178
MPH 70.50
1/4 15.650 @ 89.28

Do I Possibly have a 14.999 run in the car?...

My car was an AODE. When I ran it it weighed 3420lbs. I ran 10.0 @ 73 with 2.2 - 2.3 60' short times. It had the air silencer removed and a K&N. I removed a little weight, added underdrives and gutted the cats and it went 9.5 @ 76 with 2.1 -2.2 60' short times.

Generally a car on street tires that has mild spin upon launch will have a slightly higher mph then say the same car with the same launch on stickies without bog or tirespin. This is not saying spinning is good at all just something to pay attention to. Generally there is a mph to match a certain E.T. (this can vary between heavy or lighter cars then normal, cars with poweradders and "all motor" cars) Your mph looks lower not higher which could indicate a heavy car, slow shifting, and/or out of tune. Someone asked you if your car was a vert because of the weight. I would stop by a scale and grab a weight of your car without you in it or with you in it and subtract your weight. This will just give you a baseline of where your car stands now and you can compare it to later when and/or if you decide to mod it more.

Weight plays a big part in E.T. and MPH.

Now your car has Flowmaster mufflers, CAI, and K&N so compared to my car with the K&N and Air silencer removed, you ran a 10.0 @ 70 mph while my car ran 10.0 @ 73 mph. Generally a car with a manual transmission will have a higher MPH then a automatic transmission car. Also some tracks may have a slight difference in times and mphs and also tracks can vary for elevation, temp., humidity and track surfaces. (the track closest to me (1/8th) usually has a slightly higher mph then the closest 1/4 track) Our cars compared... My aode vs your standard with the same e.t. but different mphs could be slow shifting and too easy launching on your part. Practice, Practice and more Practice will net you better 60' times and get you better E.T.s with a higher mph.

Your 60' is your race, bottom line. I have said this before and will say it again: You can have all the power in the world but if you can't get it to the ground, your going nowhere. I would suggest some stickys ( I like ET DRAGS ) and hard launching along with some fast shifting.

Good luck bud, hope you were able to get some info out of this.

I will be taking my car to the track (1/4 mile) in the morning to see how it does with the new Tremec in there.