Help Me! Turn Signal Wiring issue

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

0

0

Dallas, TX

Jan 2, 2006

#1

• Jan 2, 2006

• #1

65 coupe

Driving one day, smoke comes from steering column. smells electrical.
I kill everything and make sure it is out. Start it up again everything is fine but no right turn indicator.

When I turn it left, the light inside and outside the car works, but when I turn right, no internal or external turn indication.

Assumptions:
Flasher is good as the left one works.
External lights are good as all lights on the car are working

My main question is how do I go about troubleshooting this issue. I removed the instrument cluster and saw the horrific mess that hides behind it. I found a lot of wires the are connected at one end but not the other. All the bulbs seem to be good. I can't see anything that appears to be burned or damaged in any way.

Here is a link to all of the photos:
http://www.numberonesite.com/mustang/wiring/index.htm

Please let me know if you see anything or have any advice that could put me in the right direction.

Additionally, how common is this half assed wiring crap where I have a ton of wires going nowhere, some just jammed in between fuses, and others spliced mid way through other wires. I would love to have the entire car rewired correctly but I don't have the $$$.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

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36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Jan 2, 2006

#2

• Jan 2, 2006

• #2

It sounds like you burned out the contacts in the switch. You will have to rent or buy a steering wheel puller to get at it and test it with your handy new multimeter. I said you were going to use it again! Disconnect you're battery first - the horn contacts are live.

 

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

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0

Dallas, TX

Jan 2, 2006

#3

• Jan 2, 2006

• #3

As should be expected, here comes the dumb question that reveals my lack of knowledge.....

Steering wheel puller? I have already removed the wheel exposing the turn indicator switch. My assumption is that all that is in the column as far as turn indicator wires is just the wires leading from the switch to the plugs under the dash. Are there more connections inside the column?

Also, I am guessing that the steering wheel puller does something other than remove the wheel from the column as that only required a wratchet.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

1,258

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36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Jan 2, 2006

#4

• Jan 2, 2006

• #4

There are threaded holes in the steering wheel that you bolt the puller onto and then screw the center shaft in and it pulles the wheel off the splined shaft. They don't normally just come off when you remove the nut in the middle.

The other way to get it off is to back the nut to the and of the shaft to protect the threads, pull the wheel with your knees and gently tap the nut with a hammer.

I have the exact same tachometer mounted in the same spot!

As far as trouble shooting, you have to check the outgoing leads of the switch for 12V when engaged. You may have a short in the harness going down the column.

 

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

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Dallas, TX

Jan 3, 2006

#5

• Jan 3, 2006

• #5

Any other thoughts on this. I pulled all of the wires out, and everything looks good. I don;t see anything specific in my Manual telling me how to test the connections.

I do notice that when I turn the rt blinker on, it does not work, but all of the other lights in the car pulse so the flasher is working.

I tested several combinations of wires with the multimeter, and everything checks out at 12 volts.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

1,258

0

36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Jan 3, 2006

#6

• Jan 3, 2006

• #6

The power goes through the blinker first then feeds to the switch. So, it sounds like you have a problem between the switch and the lights.

 

BigDaddyCee

Founding Member

Jan 1, 2000

1,404

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Canada

Jan 3, 2006

#7

• Jan 3, 2006

• #7

What kind of steering wheel do you have? Could it be a Grant? They are famous for shorting etc. Especially the horn contacts. Did you happen to notice if the smoke was coming from up by the steering wheel? I wound up cutting the horn wires and pulling them back through the steering column and fitting a toggle switch under the dash for my horn.

 

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

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0

Dallas, TX

Jan 3, 2006

#8

• Jan 3, 2006

• #8

It is a grant, but not the big old fashioned ones that people like. It is more of a sporty type wheel.

found a pic of it:

 

BigDaddyCee

Founding Member

Jan 1, 2000

1,404

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0

Canada

Jan 3, 2006

#9

• Jan 3, 2006

• #9

I had to replace my turn signal switch when I first got my car. Look at it very carefully to make sure it is not damaged inside. Inparticular the plastic/nylon pieces. Does the switch do the auto return thing after you straighten the steering wheel? I believe there is a pin connector/junction that all these wires join up to I would indiviually press each of these wires together to make sure they are all making contact. I believe it is at the base of the steering column. Did your horn work with the Grant steering wheel? If it didn't I would check for a short here.

 

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

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0

Dallas, TX

Jan 7, 2006

#10

• Jan 7, 2006

• #10

OK, I think it has something to do w/ the steering wheel mount.
I rewired everything, and everything works fine as long as the mount is off. As soon as I attach it, there are sparks, smoke etc.

Take a look at the images below and let me know if this is a bad piece. Is there any reason attaching it should cause the short?

 

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

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Dallas, TX

Jan 7, 2006

#11

• Jan 7, 2006

• #11

Hey, I dig into that piece, and found this hole has been burned into the piece under the metal.

 

pabear89

Active Member

Apr 15, 2003

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46

High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Jan 7, 2006

#12

• Jan 7, 2006

• #12

That's what happens when no lube is applied when installed.
the horn contact buttons score the ring and short out.

PB

 

BigDaddyCee

Founding Member

Jan 1, 2000

1,404

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Canada

Jan 8, 2006

#13

• Jan 8, 2006

• #13

Definately the metal copper plates you show in your pictures are screwed. You will need a new installation kit if you wish to re-use the same setup. The installation kit comes with a small capsule of lube as mentioned by pabear89. I have a kit that I didn't use right in front of me with instructions if you need to reference anything.

 

DissFigured

New Member

Apr 26, 2005

320

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0

Dallas, TX

Jan 8, 2006

#14

• Jan 8, 2006

• #14

Is this something I can pick up at Autozone/O'reilys or is it mustang specific?

 

BigDaddyCee

Founding Member

Jan 1, 2000

1,404

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Canada

Jan 8, 2006

#15

• Jan 8, 2006

• #15

You should be able to order it through them if they don't have it. The kit I have is #3294 which is for 65-67 Mustangs. Mine came with my woodgrain wheel when I ordered it. I think the actual wheels are somewhat generic and they sell installation kits that are more specific.