Help me with the codes I got...

[Limp Fox]

I just completed a HCI swap on my 91 GT and I got a few codes. Below are what they are.

Thanks again every one.
Judd

31:
PFE, EVP or EVR circuit below minimum voltage

41:
HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean
No HEGO switching detected

87:
Fuel pump primary circuit failure

91:
Shift solenoid 1 circuit failure (E4OD)

96 - Fuel pump secondary circuit failure - battery to PCM


I do believe I read then correctly off the CEL. Note that I am currently not running my MAC Prochamber. It did not line up so tomorrow I have a appt to drop it off at the exhaust shop to get it all aligned correctly. Currently it's just running off the MAC LT's. Mufflers are in place and will all be hooked up once I get it in there tomorrow. I do not have any fuel gauge hooked up to my KIRBAN FPR. Reason being is b/c I can't see how you would do it so perhaps some one would help with that? I wanted to hook up a Electrical 2 5/8 Autometer Ultra-lite to it if possible? Maybe I need to use another gauge for the Kirban? We set the timing to 12*., just a fyi. My fuel pump to me is good. You can hear it prime when you turn the key forwar and it starts every time with out fail. It's a 190 fuel pump. Other misc info that could help. Running red top 30# injectors, 75MM Pro M MAF, MAC CAI, Edelbrock lower and upper 5.0 intake (lower ported by Tmoss), 1" spacer, 75MM BBK EGR/TB, AFR 165 heads, Ed curtis custom cam ( .566 lift with 1.6 7/16 rockers and 218* intake, 224* exhaust lift), MAC LT's (prochamber tomorrow) 40 series flomasters, MSD cap/rotor, wires, coil and 6AL2 (6AL2 not hooked up yet).

If any other info is needed please let me know. I'm hoping when I take it for the prochamber install it might kill a code or two since it;s just running open headers, but who knows maybe I'm just hoping... I also did a A/C delete and complete smog delete. Still have 4 month old 89oct in the car. About 3/4's filled. Once I get low I think I should switch to 91+?

 

[liljoe07]

91 and 41 are 02 lean codes. And may be because of the fact the exhaust is off, plus long tubes dont help, even with the exhaust on. But since you did a H/C/I swap, was the HEGO ground on the back of the Head hooked back up?

Also, these must be the KOEO codes,as the Fuel pump codes wont show in the KOER test. So all or most of these codes must be memory codes. The KOER are what needs to be ran.

 

[Limp Fox]

I just got back in from getting the prochamber correctly installed and I re-checked codes and most went away like I figured they would once I had the prochamber installed, but I gained 2 more.

Codes are:
31 (still) EGR/SMOG Simulator I purchased will solve this one so I'm not worried.
81
85

If any one cares to fill me in on what 81 and 85 are and can let me know how to fix them I would appreciate since it seems the one site I was referencing for codes were not correct.

***BTW... the way I checked the codes is by jumping one wire on the small grey test plug (test out put?) to the #2 hole on the other test plug (test input?) then turn the car to run and watched the Check Engine Light.... Any other way I should be doing it to check for other possible codes which don't show?

Thanks
Judd

 

[liljoe07]

Set it up to run codes again, this time, crank the engine, and let it run. The RPM's will bounce for a few minutes, then the KOER codes will flash.

85 is the Canister Purge Circuit, if its not pluged in, it will throw this code.
81 is the Secondary Air Diverter Circuit, its a SMOG system code.


If the Cansister Purge or Smog system has been removed, then you can ignore these codes. But you still need the KOER codes.

 

[jrichker]

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

With the with the ignition on, look for 12 volts on the red wire on the solenoid connector. No 12 volts and you have wiring problems.

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve & ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that goes to the pipe connected to the cats. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Putting the computer into self test mode will cause the solenoid valve to toggle. If you listen carefully, you may hear it change states.

If you have catalytic converters, you need to fix this code. If not you can use a TAB and TAD eliminator.



Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.
Purge valve solenoid:

The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82.
You will still get 44 & 94 codes because the computer looks for a change in the amount of oxygen by checking the O2 sensors when the solenoids are actuated. Actuating the solenoids provides more oxygen in the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor output. No change and you get the 44 & 94 codes.

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will eventually clog up and choke.

See US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

OHMITE|43F82RE|Wirewound Resistor | Newark.com
If the link fails do a search using the part number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.
Or use the following part number if the first part number isn't available:
OHMITE|23J82RE|Wirewound Resistor - Vitreous | Newark.com
Newark P/N 64K8241
Ohmite part #23J82RE

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.

18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.

Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.