HELP!!? My car won't start because the fuel pump won't engage....

Pokageek

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
0
46
MA, USA
#1
We checked the fuel pump and it works fine (after taking the #$%^ing tanks off!). Now when I try to start the car, I here an EERRRRRRROOOOOOOOooooowwww..sound that dies fast and no more sound. The fuel pump fuse (20 amp) seems to keep blowing when I replace it and try to start (along with that weird noise that only happens once). The fuel pump doesn't engage when I start. Could it be the ccrm thingy next to the radiator overflow? Where's the fuel pump relay? I bought one but there is no place to put it on the car. Please help, it has been a month now that I can't start my freaking car! ARGG!!!

All this seemed to happen right after the neg battery cable popped off b/c it wans't on tight enough. At least that's when it started. And now I can't get my car started.:bang:
 
#4
I would chase the wiring down first. Not that the CCRM is not at fault or was not taken out by a short, but it would suck to get a new CCRM only to have a wiring short take it out.

I would test each wiring input for the FP and see what you are missing. THat will make it easier to trace the bad wire.

Good luck.
 
#5
TWO ITEMS:

#1 I am not real good at electric stuff and really am not sure where to start on that. I know that we tested the pins # 10,11 on the ccrm connector (the thing that screws into the ccrm with a 10mm bolt) I am not sure if it was something I did or not but when we put the positive cable of the volt-meter on #10 and the negative cable for the volt-meter on the car chassy, it blew the fuse again so we couldn't even test it. But we weren't getting any reading on it just before that. But I don't know squat about electric or any of those connections so I have no idea if that was a valid test... or how I would know if something was wrong.

#2 Three of the pins on the part that bolts into the ccrm are missing (toward the bottom) is this normal?
 
#6
Pokageek said:
Thanks for the reply man. Do you think I should replace the ccrm unit? Is that where you think the short might be? I think I have checked pretty much anything else. Thanks.
Click to expand...
as the others that posted said, i wouldnt replace the ccrm yet. if my memory serves me correctly, the ccrm is $90. i would start with checking the wiring for bare or pinched wires. plus, the fact that the pump does prime when the fuse is good leads me to believe that the ccrm is not the problem.
 
#7
ccrm is $40. I am going to look for a wire as best I can and order it in the meantime. What a pia this is. I didn't scrape or move any wires to the extent of causing a short. This is really weird. I will be surprised if it is not from the battery cable being half on and trying to start the car b/c it didn't happen until after then. That is the LAST time I will EVER do that. I wonder if I blew out anything else..@#$%
 
#8
Pokageek said:
TWO ITEMS:

#1 I am not real good at electric stuff and really am not sure where to start on that. I know that we tested the pins # 10,11 on the ccrm connector (the thing that screws into the ccrm with a 10mm bolt) I am not sure if it was something I did or not but when we put the positive cable of the volt-meter on #10 and the negative cable for the volt-meter on the car chassy, it blew the fuse again so we couldn't even test it. But we weren't getting any reading on it just before that. But I don't know squat about electric or any of those connections so I have no idea if that was a valid test... or how I would know if something was wrong.
Click to expand...

The reason you blew the fuse at the CCRM when testing for voltage is because your voltmeter was set for amperage and not for voltage. Measuring for voltage is measuring the energy potential between two places. In engineering textbooks, the short hand for voltage is "E." This is a parellel measurement.

When you test for current (amperage) you are measuring the current in series. When you measure a voltage source with the voltmeter set for amps, what you are doing is putting that 12 volts straight to ground. Amperage = Voltage / Resistance. The resistance was negligible so you drew a massive current through the voltmeter thus blowing the fuse.

When I TA'ed an intro to electrical engineering class, the Freshman did this all the time. I've done it myself more times then I remember.

Adam
 
#10
Check this out it might help you a little bit go to this link:http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=334773 and scroll down about half way you'll see it says CCRM. Long story short i have to retype this . Iran into the simalir prob. it was my EEC fuse i was mistaking the fuel pump fuse for so DOUBLE DOUBLE check!!!!!!!!!! Electrical parts are NONREFUNDABLE!!!!!!! If you already have the relay and are 100% shure after all teast's that thats it then carefully drill the riviots out of the CCRM and replace it yourself? Thats all that the manurafacter did on mine! peace



john:p
 
#13
I got it at stangparts but the bone heads sent me the wrong @#$%ing part. I specifically asked for the CCRM for my car. DAMIT!

Anyway, I checked the fuses again and for some reason the eec fuse is blowing not the fuel pump fuse. Could it be the wiring to my MAF that I rewired after BROTHERS sent me the wrong part??
 
#14
Update: Well,

#1 I unhooked the MAF harness comlpetely,
#2 removed the tweecer and re-hooked the computer back in,
#3 and checked for exposed wires - found a couple but they werent touching anything..

Eliminated those as the potential problems. But still nothing. Car still makes the EEEERRRROOOOwwwww...(from the fuel pump me thinks..)noise and then blows the EEC fuse. I am leaning more and more toward that ccrm since I ark'd the battery having the neg terminal too loose when starting the one time.
 
#15
Figured it out, looks like it was a CRUSHEd injector AND a crushed wire in the intake manifold. I checked everywhere and didn't see it but sure enough, that was what was causing it. (After having it towed to a mechanic/friend). Bought one 24# injector and having it overnighted. Hopefully it installs and runs well after this. Sheesh!!!!!!
 
#16
this is really wierd. One of my friends has a 97 gt and last saturday the same problem happened with his. He would put a new fuse in and it would blow it and wouldnt start. Turns out one of his wiring harnesses fell down and burnt in half on one of the headers. took us forever to figure it out but when we did, we just rewired everthing and put a new fuse it and it fired right up. hopes this helps
 
#18
yeah im in the same boat 1995 gt my fuse dont blow out it seems it will go bad when the car gets hotter i put a test light on the 20 amp fuse for the fuel pump and the right side has juice but the left side of the fuse dont have juice if your looking at it while standing on the drivers side ill put in another fuse and sure enough it will do the same to the new fuse ive been trying to figure mine out for a few weeks now :bang:
 
#19
update - after a few weeks i finally found the short it was the wire harness coming out of the passenger side to the fuel relay i have a bbk cold air intake and the plate that covers the finder i had the harness inbetween that and that plate when i installed it i tightend the bolts on the harness after a few months the damn plate cut into the wires only 3 though but one of the wires was the dark green/yellow for the fuel pump and the other 2 was red and blue
 
#20
Thank you for the follow-up. I'm sure you will NOT be the last to have an issue like this and your follow-up will help others find the issue. :nice:
 
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