Help on spec stage 3 clutch install?

The throw out bearing should be able to slide in and out of the arm, it's held in by two clips.

I spent several hours on that stupid pilot bearing, the tool from the auto parts store (similar to a pulley puller) didn't really seem to help. It just tore up the inside of the bearing and slid out ... it wouldn't grab worth a damn.

Out of frustration I took a chisel to that bearing and eventually broke it up enough that I could pick the pieces out. Not the preferred method, but as long as you don't hit the crank or any of the surrounding areas everything worked fine. You can also use a slide hammer, but that sucker was in there so tight I just had enough.

Putting the new one back in was a lot of fun also. Start out slow when pressing it in to make sure it's in straight and use some Mobil-1 grease to lube (red) both the inside and outside of the bearing.

A block of wood that is firm and a hammer to lightly start to tap in the bearing and work your way up to harder swings when it gets aligned is the way to go. I started out with a softer piece of wood but it wasn't going anywhere as it was just leaving indentions in the wood. As soon as I found a firmer piece of wood it went right in after a good 30 minutes of hammering.

I feel your pain, the pilot bearing is one of the worst parts of the install.

Get some heavy grease. Such as axle grease, or really any kind you have available. Squirt a bunch of it in where the pilot bearing is. Take a rounded (cylinder) shaped piece of metal, or maybe a wood dowel will work. Stick it in the hole in the bearing and if its full of grease, hit the end of the dowel with a hammer. It should pop the bearing out slightly. Then pull it out and refill it with grease. The heavier the grease, the better off you will be. Eventually after doing that enough, it will pop the bearing out.
The throw out bearing it really easy to get off. Held in with two clips like the other guy said.
As far as installing an aluminum flywheel, its no harder than getting your old one resurfaced and installing that. I dont remember what the specs to torq it to are, but read in the manual. If you get a fidanza one you'll need to figure out if you're getting a 10.5 or 11" clutch and then align the little metal pins onto the flywheel accordingly. It makes sense when you actually do it. THen bolt it up and call it a day.

If you need help, feel free to Instant message me at BoostedStang302 on AIM

Haynes manual:

Flywheel / Driveplate mounting bolts: 59 to 64

If you have a chance, get a new set of flywheel bolts from the dealer considering the stress they're put through. I didn't like the idea of taking them off and putting torque on them again ... the thought of them breaking off is to much.

I tried the wood dowel first off before the pilot bearing puller (should have mentioned that) but it didn't work for me.

You get the new bearing installed alright?