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Help! Skipping lifter noise

  • Thread starter Thread starter Team Ford
  • Start date Start date Aug 15, 2008
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Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 15, 2008
#1
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #1
Hey guys,

For the past few days Ive noticed that ticking sound like my passengers side header to xpipe bolt came lose again but it was just a little louder then that. Anyway on my way to the garage to tighten up that bolt it, I stepped on it on a straight away and it felt like a belt broke or something as I lost power and the noise got very loud and now the car is skipping pretty bad at low RPMs under load. How do I fix this...just pull the cover and check clearences?

Thanks for your help!

TF
 

blckstng96

Member
Apr 13, 2004
208
0
16
Aug 15, 2008
#2
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #2
you sure you didnt break a valve spring? pull the cam cover.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

Active Member
May 20, 2006
1,421
4
39
UCSD/La Jolla
Aug 15, 2008
#3
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #3
maybe a collapsed cam follower - i bet i could tell you if i heard it in person, my lifters had been collapsed for a long while due to a faulty head not supplying oil - but they can also simply collapse and cease working hydraulically although that's kinda rare.
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 15, 2008
#4
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #4
blckstng96 said:
you sure you didnt break a valve spring? pull the cam cover.
Click to expand...

pulling it now

now why would ford use a 8mm deep well on these studs, I have a 7mm but no 8mm.
 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member
Jan 31, 2003
3,125
81
99
Canada
Aug 15, 2008
#5
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #5
You sure you didn't blow a spark plug out?
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 16, 2008
#6
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #6
trinity_gt said:
You sure you didn't blow a spark plug out?
Click to expand...

wow trinity great call!

Yes as I had the last bolt out of the cam cover on the pax side I noticed the 2nd cylinder from the firewall COP spring stuffed under itself and the boot was shredded. So I pulled the COP out and yea the spark plug was just sitting in the hole I used a magnet to pull it out. The plug looks fine besides some carbon and a smushed electrode. The COP looks like a grenade hit it.

I pulled the cover anyway since I was already there and everything looks brand new underneath and all the springs seemed fine - nothing broken.

I had replaced these plugs about a 8mo ago.

Im off to the junkyard to get another COP.

Ill change the oil too...it smells pretty gasy as it should driving for 10 miles on 7 cylinders.
 

blckstng96

Member
Apr 13, 2004
208
0
16
Aug 16, 2008
#7
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #7
good call on the plug blowout,was just about to come in and type that until i saw that.u gotta check out those threads in the head.
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 16, 2008
#8
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #8
blckstng96 said:
good call on the plug blowout,was just about to come in and type that until i saw that.u gotta check out those threads in the head.
Click to expand...

Damn you guys are smart...yea the plug blew out of the hole taking the threads with it. I just got back from Napa with a heli kit.

My question is how do i do this with the head in the car...those aluminum fragments are going to go into the cylinder....will they scar the piston walls or will they just get pushed out the exhaust valves?

Ill search online how to do this but if someone has done this before please chime in.

Thanks again guys!

TF
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 16, 2008
#9
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #9
looks like I just need to bring the piston up and use grease to catch the shavings and clean the tool often, then a shop vac to suck up anything that I missed.

forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?p=889856
 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member
Jan 31, 2003
3,125
81
99
Canada
Aug 16, 2008
#10
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #10
Team Ford said:
looks like I just need to bring the piston up and use grease to catch the shavings and clean the tool often, then a shop vac to suck up anything that I missed.

forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?p=889856
Click to expand...

That about sums it up. Go slow and take your time.
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 16, 2008
#11
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #11
Im not sure which sleeve to use the Normal size or the Long. The long matches the length of the plug threads flush while the normal size like 5 threads extend past if you know what I mean.

Thanks!
TF
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 17, 2008
#12
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #12
I used the normal length and its running fine. Thx guys!
 

blackink00

I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
Mar 30, 2005
545
0
0
Tempe, AZ
Aug 17, 2008
#13
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #13
make sure you use an aluminum heli coil. so it disapated heat thru the plug. ive seen steel ones burn up valves.
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 17, 2008
#14
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #14
blackink00 said:
make sure you use an aluminum heli coil. so it disapated heat thru the plug. ive seen steel ones burn up valves.
Click to expand...

I've already used the set pin and permanent loc tight, plus the kit only had steel inserts. Was I supposed to ask for Aluminum inserts? Nobody mentioned it here or on other boards...anyone else heard of burning valves due to the helicoil being steel?

Thanks
 

blackink00

I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
Mar 30, 2005
545
0
0
Tempe, AZ
Aug 17, 2008
#15
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #15
wow that sucks. i work at a ford dealership and i do about 3 heli coils a week and on some engines that i tear down with burnt valves they have steel heli coils in them. good luck with that cuz now the spark plug that you have in is meant for a specific heat range and now the heat range is off cuz steel doesnt disappate like alum
 

Team Ford

Member
Dec 16, 2005
109
3
19
Aug 17, 2008
#16
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #16
blackink00 said:
wow that sucks. i work at a ford dealership and i do about 3 heli coils a week and on some engines that i tear down with burnt valves they have steel heli coils in them. good luck with that cuz now the spark plug that you have in is meant for a specific heat range and now the heat range is off cuz steel doesnt disappate like alum
Click to expand...

hope I dont burn a valve
 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member
Jan 31, 2003
3,125
81
99
Canada
Aug 17, 2008
#17
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #17
Steel will be fine.

blackink, do you have a partnumber for an aluminum thread insert? I've never heard of that before.
 

blackink00

I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
Mar 30, 2005
545
0
0
Tempe, AZ
Aug 17, 2008
#18
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #18
i dont off hand but i can get one. all i do is say i need a heli coil kit and the parts counter gives me one. but ive done 2 4.6s with burnt valves cuz of them
 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member
Jan 31, 2003
3,125
81
99
Canada
Aug 17, 2008
#19
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #19
blackink00 said:
i dont off hand but i can get one. all i do is say i need a heli coil kit and the parts counter gives me one. but ive done 2 4.6s with burnt valves cuz of them
Click to expand...

As far as I know, the insert in Helicoil's HEL5396-14 "Sav-A-Thread HT" kit is stainless steel. I don't think an aluminum insert (if it even exists) would survive installation, let alone service.

It's hard to see how a plug insert could cause valves to burn. I just don't believe the effective heatrange increase can't be so bad as to cause pre-ignition to set in due to incandescent plug tips. Even then, I'd expect the cylinder to die due to eroded plug terminals before valves burned or the piston holed.
 

blackink00

I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
Mar 30, 2005
545
0
0
Tempe, AZ
Aug 17, 2008
#20
  • Aug 17, 2008
  • #20
heres a kit. it has alum inserts. ++ BIG-SERT Sparkplug ++
 
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