help!! tired of lame horse

Go with 4.30's, vt stage II cams, ported heads, and longtube headers....

Zeke8566 said:

i need the car to do everything for me since its my only car

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This is pretty vague. You're running 13's and aren't happy, but still want it to be a good daily driver which gets decent gas mileage, etc.??? You need to focus on a goal here.

I'm the last person who will ever claim a good technical know-how, but this just doesn't make a lot of sense. If you want to race, there is a certain path for that to take. If you want a good road car--ditto. The question is, what exactly do you want your car to do?

To me, it sounds like you got a good start, regardless. <shrug>

for a perfect solution:
buy a vortech and a set of slicks for the track. Go with mid range gears, like 3.73s, and maybe a decent sounding exhaust. That's more than enough to stir up some suffering at the track and keep the car very streetable.

I dont care what anyone says, I think the centrifugals are more easy on the street to handle than the twin screws, even though the twin screws have faster boost and better torque curve.

Engine swap? What the hell. Talk about a SEASON LONG PROJECT, or a VERY EXPENSIVE ONE if a shop does it! Don't bother, you're better off buying a new car.

Another really good solution for you maybe a standard plate system (dry shot) of nitrious. On stock internals you could shoot up to about 120 safely. Zex makes a great kit for stangs, so does Nitrious Xpress or however it's spelled.

ok first of all theres nothing wrong with wanting a fast daily driver...with these cars its tough to do that N/A though. If you really want to get some power into it and still get decent gas mileage, etc you need to look into nitrous or boost. If you go with the boost route (supercharger or turbocharger) theres nothing wrong with getting a motor built to handle the boost later, but I probably wouldn't do it right now since your car is still under warranty and the motor is likely still pretty fresh. No its not a season long project if you know what your doing, yes it would be somewhat expensive to have a shop put it in.

In the end you have to make some compromises on a street car/daily driver...you don't want 13:1 compression, high RPM cams, slicks, and a 4000 stall converter (or extremely stiff clutch) if you have to drive this thing daily, but theres nothing saying you can't pull 400+RWHP with a turbo and still have basically stock driveability!

Tuff question. It will be hard for you to get out of the 13's wothout a power adder, just how it is. Mid 13's is no slouch, but the N/A GT is what it is, a nice car with a reliable power plant with nice power. At the track, you can drop your ET's by installing lower gears and running on slicks or drag radials,
but that won't drop it too much. You need to decide if you want to go power adder or not. Remember, cost of a SC is a couple grand ($3000-4000), but the cost does not stop there, remember, installation, tuning, etc. Lot's to think about.

I'm just a little ol bolt daily driven GT knockin' on the 12's....sniffle.

scalder said:

I'm just a little ol bolt daily driven GT knockin' on the 12's....sniffle.

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