HELP, trying to change T5 output seal, many questions

[94-302-vert]

OK, I got the D/S out of the car but I cannot figure out a good way to get the old seal out of the tail end of the trans. After busting my knuckles for the 5th time I figured it was time to clean up and get back in the house for the night so can anyone shed light as to a good way or tool to use to remove this seal?

Without the driveshaft I noticed that there is some level of movement in the output shaft of the transmission like there is really nothing supporting it. Is this normal?

Now on the other hand after going from my 2:73's to 3:73's I have noticed a loud vibration at 75+ mph actual. It is related to load. The more load the more sound. How can I check my D/S for u-joint condition, balance, etc. I plan to change this seal as it could be the trans gears I was hearing whining then put change to the poly tranmission mount from the bushing kit. Then should I jsut re-mount this D/S and drive it???

Thanks for the help as it has been 5 weeks since I have been able to drive my stang without worrying about something failing... It all started with the darn gears... I am so frustrated I am ready to torch it and collect from the insurance (kidding)... But I really am frustrated... :damnit:

Chris

 

[CBZGT50]

Does the DS leak when in? if not you should be ok and not need to change it. If you are set on changing it, you have two options, a seal puller, you can rent or buy from auto zone or oreilies. Or, a big screwdriver and some light taps in a circular motion. I am sure it is stuck in there pretty good as I assume it is the original. The output shaft should have a small amount of "end play" which is supposed to be there for the gears to turn without binding. I have studied T-5's and there should be a slight amout of play.

If you stick the DS in and there is excessive play back and fourth, the tailshaft bushing may be bad/warn. That usually happens on HIGH milage cars and would cause a vibration at high rpms.

As far as the loud noise you are hearing, make sure you put blue loctite on your DS bolts and tighten them good. Check again in a week or so because those pescky things like to come loose and then make a noise like a bad u-joint.

CB

 

[94-302-vert]

Yeah, the D/S was leaking horribly. About 3 months ago I put in a half quart and I am sure I was about that low again. But working in 20' weather I jsut wanted to make it through the winter when I filled it.

The car has 130k miles on it. Bushing should be fine?

Chris

 

[CBZGT50]

Wow leaking that much huh? yikes. I have changed a few of those seals and they are sticky at that milage. I would try the two tricks I said earlier. Be careful putting the seal back in by using a large socket or lightly tapping in a slow circular motion until flat. Check the DS yoke for serious wear. That can be a bad problem too if it is a few mm scored. you may have to get the DS repaired if it is damaged. I have seen that cause bad leaking before along with the seal. There will be a little wear but not much wear will still keep a good seal.

 

[94-302-vert]

Is there any tricks to get it out with "normal" tools? I was thinking about trying to get in there and cut it out...

ANd yeah it was leaking so bad the whole underbody of the car from the output shaft to about 2' back were wet and at times I could smell it burning off of my cats.

Chris

 

[CBZGT50]

The screwdriver should workwith a small hammer, a big flatblade. A small pry bar might work too. Remember to check that yoke for wear.

 

[94-302-vert]

Yoke was fine, I was able to pry it out with a 12" long screwdriver for more leverage.

Unfortunately the vibration (whirring sound) is still there...

Chris

 

[5.0 from 95]

If it has whined since your gear install, it could be the gears. I had a set of Motive that whined. The FRPP that I use now have none. The vibration could also be from you back tires. Check to make sure they are balanced good. I also had that problem after the first install. Just something else for you to check.

Paul