Help with 3g install in or around Md, DC,, Va Please
- Thread starter roadrunner19va
- Start date
It's one of the simpler mods you can do.
Aside from adding the 4 gauge power wire, you cut white/black wire and splice another to it. Solder & heat shrink the splice, then add a 1/4" female slip connector and the wiring part is done. Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058
3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
I am very careful to maintain backwards compatibility, so I did things a little different. The white/black stator wire gets the insulation stripped back about 1 1/2" in the middle of the wire & cut in the middle of the stripped area. Then a short length of white wire with a 1/4" slip on female spade connector gets spliced on to the white/black wire. Slide on enough 1/4" heat shrink tubing on the white wire to cover the solder splice you are going to make. Next all 3 wires get soldered together & the heat shrink tubing gets shrunk. When you finish, the white/black wire looks like a "Y" with 1 white arm and 1 white/black arm. I left the black/orange wires connected to the original plug and did not do anything to them. When you are done, the original plug still has all the wires connected to it and they are still functional. The extra white pigtail wire that you spliced, soldered in & covered with heat shrink tubing is just long enough to plug into the 3G without much left over.
I ran the 4 gauge wire under the front of the engine next to the 4 gauge wire for the starter power feed.
It came up the same path as the fuel injector supply lines, and gets bolted to the power output lug of the 3G alternator. The 125 amp fuse is mounted on a plastic panel bolted to the stock ignition coil mounts. One of side of the fuse has a 4 gauge wire connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid & the other to the 4 gauge power feed wire for the alternator.
I had some 1" silicone aircraft heat shield tubing that I fed the 4 gauge alternator power feed wire through and tie wrapped & clamped it in place with some aircraft cushion clamps. That provided the wire extra protection from road debris and rocks. Some heater hose could be used to do the same thing.
Apart from the grinding I did on the mount bracket, there wasn't much to it. Rather than just grind a notch, I ground the whole web back to the thick part of the bracket. It looks much more factory that way.
Aside from adding the 4 gauge power wire, you cut white/black wire and splice another to it. Solder & heat shrink the splice, then add a 1/4" female slip connector and the wiring part is done. Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058
3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
I am very careful to maintain backwards compatibility, so I did things a little different. The white/black stator wire gets the insulation stripped back about 1 1/2" in the middle of the wire & cut in the middle of the stripped area. Then a short length of white wire with a 1/4" slip on female spade connector gets spliced on to the white/black wire. Slide on enough 1/4" heat shrink tubing on the white wire to cover the solder splice you are going to make. Next all 3 wires get soldered together & the heat shrink tubing gets shrunk. When you finish, the white/black wire looks like a "Y" with 1 white arm and 1 white/black arm. I left the black/orange wires connected to the original plug and did not do anything to them. When you are done, the original plug still has all the wires connected to it and they are still functional. The extra white pigtail wire that you spliced, soldered in & covered with heat shrink tubing is just long enough to plug into the 3G without much left over.
I ran the 4 gauge wire under the front of the engine next to the 4 gauge wire for the starter power feed.
It came up the same path as the fuel injector supply lines, and gets bolted to the power output lug of the 3G alternator. The 125 amp fuse is mounted on a plastic panel bolted to the stock ignition coil mounts. One of side of the fuse has a 4 gauge wire connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid & the other to the 4 gauge power feed wire for the alternator.
I had some 1" silicone aircraft heat shield tubing that I fed the 4 gauge alternator power feed wire through and tie wrapped & clamped it in place with some aircraft cushion clamps. That provided the wire extra protection from road debris and rocks. Some heater hose could be used to do the same thing.
Apart from the grinding I did on the mount bracket, there wasn't much to it. Rather than just grind a notch, I ground the whole web back to the thick part of the bracket. It looks much more factory that way.
JR is very correct. It's stupid simple. In reading threads it can be confusing just because of the variations in methods and debates about one or two fine-points (I'm guilty of making some of the threads look horrid - there is not-so-great info out there that I disagree with).
If really desiring someone to do the install, I can think of several members from here who live in the general areas you listed who would likely help.
I'd give it a shot yourself and post up if/when you get confused.
Good luck.
If really desiring someone to do the install, I can think of several members from here who live in the general areas you listed who would likely help.
I'd give it a shot yourself and post up if/when you get confused.
Good luck.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter 
Here to help, if you get stumped, post up and we'll help you out. When are u planning on doing the swap? Maybe could even instant message with some help or something.
onefstsnake
New Member
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Like everyone said, the swap is really easy. I was afraid when I did mine on my old convertible since it was the first 'mod' I had ever done to any Fox Mustang. But it took less than 2 days to install that along with a new radiator, electric fan and controller.
I wrote up a thread with some pictures that I thought were confusing in all of the 'other' threads. Good luck!
I wrote up a thread with some pictures that I thought were confusing in all of the 'other' threads. Good luck!
gruvee87vertgt
20+ Year Stangneter
I am in the process of the swap as well.
Can anyone tell me what wires on the plug get connected to the wires on the car?
Can anyone tell me what wires on the plug get connected to the wires on the car?
gruvee87vertgt
20+ Year Stangneter
jrichker said:
yeah, I read it...it doenst say anything about what to do with the yellow wire coming fron the below the starter relay area? thanx
gruvee87vertgt said:
That means you don't do anything with the yellow wire at the starter solenoid:
you leave it connected. It is the feed wire for all the fuse links for the other systems.
The only wire you alter is the white/black wire that you splice another wire onto it
to make a Y. That spliced wire gets a female 1/4" slip connector on it & plugs into
the 3G alternator. Then you add the 4 guage fused power feed from the battery
side of the starter solenoid to the stud on the back of the alternator. That's it.
Don't cut off any wires, don't disconnect anything.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Attachments
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
What yellow wire?
The only wire you need is the stator wire (white / black) to be spliced into the new alternator.
The only new wire added to the relay is the 4 gauge power wire.
The only wire you need is the stator wire (white / black) to be spliced into the new alternator.
The only new wire added to the relay is the 4 gauge power wire.
JR's spot-on about the sense wire. For guys wishing to delete the OEM charge harness (and that yellow wire), the prefabbed harness from FFI is popular. Rather than using a remote location to note voltage [drop], it simply ties back to the alternator. This should work fine as long as your cables and wiring remain in good shape.
Good luck.
Good luck.
