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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Help With Choosing Replacement Coil Springs.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 89SportVert
  • Start date Start date Apr 16, 2015
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89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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Vancouver, WA
Apr 16, 2015
#1
  • Apr 16, 2015
  • #1
Howdy StangNet,

My coil springs have now reached a point that they sag and cause the car to list to one side, and I need to replace them. Here is a list of chassis and suspension mods to better understand the current level of the vehicle.

89 LX 5.0 Vert:
Kenny Brown: Strut tower brace, K-member brace, and subframe connectors
Maximum Motorsports: Camber-Caster Plates
95 spindles and brakes up front
5-lug drum out back
17X8 Tri bar 95 wheels wrapped in 245/45R17s
Polyurethane front control arm, and sway bar bushings
Tokico Blue Struts and shocks
Fresh new Rack & Pinion
Rear arms are completely stock with rubber on both ends
Stock front and rear sway bars

I do not go to the track (drag or road course). I would prefer not to drop the car an inch or two with aftermarket springs because of the larger tire/wheel combo and smaller wheel wells. I subscribe to the notion that a softer suspension and stiffer sway-bars give a better ride while still providing the ability for a spirited drive. Such as was done with the 93 Cobra. Part of me wants to go with stock 5.0 front springs front and then go with 4-cyl convertible rears. Im also thinking of using the Steeda X2 balljoints to get a slight drop with the stock springs.

So, what are your suggestions, StangNet?
 

OldManRiver

Active Member
Feb 14, 2015
238
131
53
Central Wisconsin
Apr 16, 2015
#2
  • Apr 16, 2015
  • #2
I would check to be sure it's an issue with the springs and NOT the rubber isolators above /below the spring.Springs being "worn out" and sagging is very rare,I've never experienced it personally on any car I've owned.
Pull the springs to check the condition of the isolators and compare the free height of both rear springs,while comparing the free height won't tell the whole story it may tell you enough.

Either way I would recommend purchasing a set of adjustable perch lower control arms to have the ability to raise/lower the car to clear whatever wheel/tire combo you choose in the future,plus replacing the stock lower arms with a quality aftermarket set is always a good idea.Going with adjustable perch arms also gives you the option to lower the car while retaining the stock ride by keeping a stock rate spring.***Remember to replace the stock pinion snubber if lowing the car.***
If you install 4 cyl. rear springs you may find they lower the car too much for your liking,having the ability to raise the car up with a turn of a wrench would be very convenient in this situation.

Good luck
 
Reactions: A5literMan

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Apr 16, 2015
#3
  • Apr 16, 2015
  • #3
Bullitt Springs....if you can find a set.


(or Mach 1 springs with 1/2 coil trimmed)
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
15 Year Member
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Apr 16, 2015
#4
  • Apr 16, 2015
  • #4
Mustang5L5 said:
Bullitt Springs....if you can find a set.


(or Mach 1 springs with 1/2 coil trimmed)
Click to expand...
The Bullitt springs were 600 lb. up front and 200 lb. out back. The Ford Racing C springs come pretty close to that at 650 lb. front and 200-300 lb. rear.
1979-2004 MUSTANG FRONT/REAR SPRING KITS | Part Details for M-5300-C | Ford Performance Racing Parts
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,235
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Apr 17, 2015
#5
  • Apr 17, 2015
  • #5
02 281 GT said:
The Bullitt springs were 600 lb. up front and 200 lb. out back. The Ford Racing C springs come pretty close to that at 650 lb. front and 200-300 lb. rear.
1979-2004 MUSTANG FRONT/REAR SPRING KITS | Part Details for M-5300-C | Ford Performance Racing Parts
Click to expand...

Except the C springs lower the car much more than the Bullitt/Mach springs do.

I changed from C springs to Mach 1 springs. It raised the car up an inch or so, but I no longer bottomed out my struts. Ride quality over bumps was much better and the car still handled pretty much the same. I was a very happy man the day I ditched my C springs
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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Vancouver, WA
Apr 17, 2015
#6
  • Apr 17, 2015
  • #6
I forgot to mention that the vehicle has about 240K on the odometer. I'm currently having fitment issues with the wheel tire combo I have choose need to add limiters to my rack also. This is one of the reasons why I would prefer to drop it at most a half an inch which is what i thought my suggested setup would do.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Apr 17, 2015
#7
  • Apr 17, 2015
  • #7
Bullitt or Mach 1 springs would work for you.
 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
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Apr 18, 2015
#8
  • Apr 18, 2015
  • #8
Ford racing progressive b springs
 
Reactions: Cdncbra

89SportVert

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Jun 29, 2002
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Apr 18, 2015
#9
  • Apr 18, 2015
  • #9
Call me stupid, but i'm going to assume I need to acquire the complete set(Front/Rear) of the Mach/Bullitt springs. Also are there opinions on the X2 balljoints? I'm using 95 units now. I'm not really wanting to convert to a aftermarket LCA. I have polygraphite bushings that squeaked until i had the holes drilled and zerk fittings installed. I also had the LCAs reinforced with some plate strategically welded to the LCAs. Oh and I intend to complete the Extreme Matrix system by Kenny Brown (Jacking Rails and Matrix Brace). I believe in the philosophy that a stiff chassis is a good chassis.
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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Apr 18, 2015
#10
  • Apr 18, 2015
  • #10
90lxwhite said:
Ford racing progressive b springs
Click to expand...

I believe these will lower the car about an inch up front and a half inch out back. I do not want to lower the car due to wheel/tire fitment issues with the smaller wheel wells of the 89.
 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2011
3,310
374
134
Between the Red and Rio
Apr 18, 2015
#11
  • Apr 18, 2015
  • #11
89SportVert said:
I believe these will lower the car about an inch up front and a half inch out back. I do not want to lower the car due to wheel/tire fitment issues with the smaller wheel wells of the 89.
Click to expand...
Putting big ole tires on? But nah they give a real subtle drop, less than an inch. I have em on my 95 and like them a lot. They're stiffer than stock but won't beat you to death. Ford Racing Mustang B-Springs M-5300-B (79-04 GT, V6, Mach 1; 93-98 Cobra) - Free Shipping
 
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89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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Apr 21, 2015
#12
  • Apr 21, 2015
  • #12
I think i have decided on the Bullitt spring choice. Now I need to know part numbers for these things. And if someone has a suggestion for a reputable company I can acquire them from. I don't want to order Bullitt springs and get 4cyl, v6, or stock v8 springs. Whats the going rate for a set of used springs?

Once again, thank you for your time.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Apr 21, 2015
#13
  • Apr 21, 2015
  • #13
It was many years ago, but PPI is where I bought my Bullitt stuff, you might wanna check with them.
 

Riverart

Well-Known Member
Oct 29, 2007
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Ontario, CA
Apr 21, 2015
#14
  • Apr 21, 2015
  • #14
I also used the Ford Racing B springs because I wanted a conservative drop. That's what I got but the only problem is that it created a rake look which is ok but I am going to install adjustable control arms to even my car out. The ride is quite nice. My opinion of course.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,235
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Massachusetts
Apr 21, 2015
#15
  • Apr 21, 2015
  • #15
PPI used to sell them but I think they have been discontinued. They actually sold them in a kit for $399 that included the Bullitt (tokico) shocks/struts and sway bars. The sway bars were useless to a fox guy but you could always sell them to an SN95 owner. Used Is the only way now to source these.


2001 Bullit spring part numbers
Front: 1R3Z-5310-CA
Rear: 1R3Z-5560-AA

2003-2004 Mach 1
3R3Z-5310-AA (front)
3R3Z-5560-AA (rear)


Mach 1 springs are slightly taller than bullitt springs, but some guys think they are the same. They aren't, so check the part numbers. The only difference is an extra 1/2 turn or so of the coil to meet a revised height requirement Ford implemented in 2003. You could trim that bit of coil off without hurting anything and basically "make" bullitt springs.

I run the Mach springs on my fox with the Tokico blue shocks/struts. I took out FMS C springs previously. Same basic spring rates, but the ride was much better with the mach springs due to having suspension travel




Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited: Apr 22, 2015

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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Vancouver, WA
Jun 9, 2015
#16
  • Jun 9, 2015
  • #16
Can someone give me a clue? My mechanic is concerned about tire fitment issues with these springs it seems that they are quite a bit lower than stock.

On the Left is the Bullit spring and on the right is the stock spring.
Are the coils thicker? That looks to be well over an inch shorter.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,356
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Jun 9, 2015
#17
  • Jun 9, 2015
  • #17
I have no issues whatsoever with Bullitt stuff and 245/45/17 tires on my car.
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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29
Vancouver, WA
Jun 9, 2015
#18
  • Jun 9, 2015
  • #18
On personal inspection it looked like it was more like a 1.5 inch difference. I figured WTF! Well put in the Bullitt springs and deal with fitment issues after the fact. Anyone know where to get the steering rack limiters? I have rubbing issues now and am fearful it will be worse with the springs. I guess we'll see tomorrow. fingers crossed.
 

89oem

Mustang Master
Dec 18, 2013
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Jun 10, 2015
#19
  • Jun 10, 2015
  • #19
Rack limiters, bump steer etc; steering rack limiter - LatemodelRestoration.com® Search
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
283
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29
Vancouver, WA
Aug 12, 2015
#20
  • Aug 12, 2015
  • #20
After a few months of driving on the new and newer parts I can say without a doubt, I love how this car now rides and drives. Thank you goes out to all those that have pointed me in the right direction. All i need now is a Cobra IRS out back and finish the chassis bracing with jacking rails and a matrix brace. Once again thanks to all thea gave input.
 
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