Help!

MUSTANGJOE

Silver Stanger
Founding Member
Apr 9, 2002
1,644
17
59
Hey guys..

I have a serious problem!..I brought my car to the shop this week to changer my clutch, fix headers leak and install 3.73 gears. But when they drove it they said that theres something really wrong with my car!! :( . They told me its missing torq and power. They are going to do a compression test this week to see if its my engine.

My question is...what can cause this?..I hope its not the engine, but if it is what does that mean, do I need a rebuild?

Help!!!!!!!/////// Thanks
 
Sicarius428 said:
How many miles do you have on the car? Has the aod ever been rebuilt?
Kevin

It has 80 000/m, its a 5 speed..but it seems to be ok. Can it be a vacum leak or something stupid!..I hope, I don't feel like spending $$$ on this now!
 
Careful..!! Low on torque and HP could be a ..........???? What did it feel like when you took it in>>?? If the compression is low in all cylinders.. and then they do a wet test and the compression comes up.. it is rings!! Befor you go into an Over haul with ONLY 80 K on the engine.. maybe get more advise!! COOL??

Just me....................

Thumper
 
Yeah I hate to put this out there but I wouldn't doubt if they messed something up or broke something either during the install or when they went to drive it...

I would never let someone drive my car without me there...and if that is the case I'll take the keys:)
 
Thanks guys..

They didnt install anything yet, they just drove it to get a feel of the clutch since I said it was bad. My brother works at the shop so I dont think they screwed around with it. Also I always felt the car was missing power, just thought it was normal thats why I purchased the 3.73 gears to wake it up a little... anymore opinions?? Thanks again.
 
That would shy me away from them too. The fact that they told you that means they were out getting on it. Thats why my car goes in for alignment only and I dont let anyone drive it. I pull it onto the rack and back out, and I test drive it. If they have a problem with that, they dont get my business.

And if you have a stock engine, gas mileage is a good indicator of general engine health and tune. If you see it dropping off, its time to check things out. I get anywhere from 16-20mpg in the city and 25-28 hwy. Thats a healthy stock engine at 132,000mi.
 
Sorry what was I thinking AOD... duh new clutch... Anyways 80K isnt bad at all... I would get a second opinion too. Do a basic tuneup... filter, sparkplugs, wires maybe, fuel filter(possibly clogged) and check vacuume, compression, timing and spark. Possibly pull the codes but that is a good place to start.
Kevin
 
Thanks guys!

Trust I'm just as paranoid as you guys when I bring my car tp the shop. I'm always thinking that they will go around joy riding. But I just spoke to my brother he said he just took it up and down the street and that he didnt do anything stupid.

They will be doing a compression test this week, The clutch does feel weird(cheap), Anyways i'll just wait and see what the results are as for the compression goes , I just hope its nothing serious...watta way to start the season! :( .

Can a bad U-joint cause this problem?..I find its mostly low end torque and power thats missing. I hate leaving my car in these places(my baby!) But I have no choice..it needs to get fixed!
 
u joints should not be causing your issues. if your brother works there (and you are not comfy working on it), can he and you do the compression testing yourselves?

good luck.
 
MUSTANGJOE said:
Would pulling the codes indicate that theres something wrong with the MAF or other things, even though the check engine light is not on?
Yes.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.