Hey everyone im the new guy....
- Thread starter GTO Jimmy
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1991notchbackLX
Active Member
ah bentley beat me to it! but welcome to stangnet and post pics of that GTO as soon as humanly possible 
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
The new wheels: 18 inch Stern ST-8 hypermesh in Hyperblack
View attachment 271671
Oh and a little video of some fun on the 70mm turbo @ 11psi pump gas.
Roll Racing-16 Turbo stang,Turbo M3 Turbo Gto, Sup- Video
Strippt88
New Member
Sweet, my first car was a 69 GTO, new ones carry the tradition right
! Good starting point Fox, welcome!
! Good starting point Fox, welcome!
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
those cars are awesome, i can see you catching some flack on here for that street racing vid though 
boost FTW
boost FTW
Oh I am! Am picking up my buddies setup off his foxbody. B303, Rousch heads, 24# injectors, C&L intake/MAF setup, Cobra intake manifold, LT's, X pipe and 4.10's. After that I will probably play with the bottle a little bit until the motor goes.Nice Holden
Now get to work on the Mustang
Then it will be turbo time! I got my GT70 just sitting here begging to go on......
Sweet, my first car was a 69 GTO, new ones carry the tradition right
Most of the old GTO guys hate the new GTO guys, good to see someone who appreciates the hard work.
Oh not acceptable on here? I will remove it if it offends anyone. Thats the reason I wanted a fox is because I wanna start getting back to the track instead of the street. :Track:those cars are awesome, i can see you catching some flack on here for that street racing vid though
boost FTW
It is actually a rearmount setup, I will get some new pics as soon as I finish getting it back together. I had an issue with the 402ci motor lol.
Yeah the previous owner was converting it to a GT, he gave me the whole setup. Anyone need some GT bodyparts?
I think they're cool cars, i just don't like that they called them a GTO...regardless of how good they are or if they're "living up to the name" i just don't like recycling classic names. They could've called it a Nova and i wouldn't have liked it any better. I've always liked the Holden/Vauxhall Monaros. Those Australians have all the badass toys down there. Their average Ford V8 car has the same engine that our Cobra R gets.
Strippt88
New Member
I'm an old GTO guy, but they did it right on the new one, specially the last couple years! There are a several kinda guys here, those who street raced, but are in recovery(that'd be old guys like me) and those that have a 10 second car, but NEVER use it on the street
We just agree its pretty stupid,(again, some from experience, some from common sense) and don't promote it. Is that a black car in Texas? Did the dealer ambush you with an impossable to pass price, or it only comes out at night? And, hey, we can get Shiner in Chicago, first time ever!
! There are a several kinda guys here, those who street raced, but are in recovery(that'd be old guys like me) and those that have a 10 second car, but NEVER use it on the street We just agree its pretty stupid,(again, some from experience, some from common sense) and don't promote it. Is that a black car in Texas? Did the dealer ambush you with an impossable to pass price, or it only comes out at night? And, hey, we can get Shiner in Chicago, first time ever!
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Welcome to Stangnet... 
Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
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