Hi From The Uk And Help Please!

Hi guys

I use to be a Camaro Driver. Now I have a 2005 Mustang 4.6 GT. Have to be honest, I still have the Camaro as it was my first car when I was 17. And over here in the UK, that's a rare thing.

Had some major problems with the Mustang over the last year or so.

Its a long story............
Car was fitted before I owned it with a Vortech V2. But no further work was done. I popped two pistons about a year Go. Now having rebuilt it with new Pistons, rings, bearing, rods, ford racing intake manifold, timing chain kit, cylinders machined and over sized, I still have a misfire on Cylinder #3. Have swapped out all plugs, CoPs, injectors from bank to bank. Even went down the route of swapping hydraulic lifters from #3-4. And still misfire #3. It happens at 4,000rpm upwards, popping and cracking like mad. Usually under hard throttle it is worse. Light comes on and code is for a misfire on cylinder #3. Still missing on #3. Compression test reads approx 190-195 across all cylinders. This is killing me!!!!!

I NEED HELP!!!

Thanks.

I have been thinking about that? I have the Predator tuner that came with the car/ vortech. That's is what I am using to read the codes. I only ever get a P0303 code for a misfire on cylinder #3. I don't get a code for an injector or coil down. I did pull of the plug to the injector and coil to check and then came up with codes P0203 and P0353 just to check.

It drives as if the supercharger is only just boosting but im putting that down to the misfire.

I'm now thinking I made a major rookie mistake by not checking/ re-seating/ replacing the valves and all the upper running gear.

I have also put new Cam sensors and Crank sensors in.

Sorry for making this a hard one, don't have much help over here in the UK. And to get parts shipped is hard!

Thanks

Already fitted new set motorcraft plugs. Then on recommendation, fitted Autolite HT0 because of the super charger. Have also swapped them bank, to bank.

If I was to pull off the heads again, and replace the valves, lifters and rollers, what and where is my best place to buy them? Bearing in mind I'm in the UK so need them shipped here. Also on a budget, without scrimping to much, as just spend loads rebuilding the motor with DSS pistons and rods, new gaskets, head bolts etc etc. And now I will need another set of gaskets and bolts .

I havnt looked at what valves yet but the previous set of head gaskets were Cometic C5118-051 and C5119-051 and Fel Pro ES72798 head bolts. I have been looking at the Ford racing rocker arm and lash adjuster kit from American Muscle?

I guess O.E valves would be ok?

Any help here really appreciated.

So today I pulled off the inlet manifold and cam covers. Ran some leak down tests, found one of the valves in cylinder #3 blowing like mad! Looks like I am having the heads of again only a month after rebuild. Rookie .

Advice on where to get a set of valves and maybe valve seats if they are replaceable, would be great.

Thanks.

So after running a few more tests, I carried out a leek down test. Could hear air leaking. Pulled the inlet manifold, sprayed some WD40 on the #3 inlet valves and one had a lot of bubbles, the other had a few very small bubbles. Did this to the other's cylinder on that head, a few more were like it. So pulled the head. Did it again on the bench, but blew thought the exhaust manifold and exhaust valve on #3 was blowing bubbles like mad! Pulled all valves, spun them up and #3 is bent, so not seating properly. All others seemed ok. Cleaned them up, re-seated them all. New exhaust valve needed. Pulled the other head as I was in there, exhaust on #5 leaking a little. Pulled all valves for the peace of mind and re-seated them all.

long post, but kinda explains my misfire on #3 and poor running / driving..

It's been a long, costly experience. Next time i won't be such a rookie. And will pull the valves before refitting the heads to an engine I just rebuilt. Learnt the hard way!!!

Hi Guys,

So, here is the funny thing. After replacing the valve and re-seating all the others. Then rebuilding the motor once again. Took it for a test drive, and..... NO CHANGE! Still running a bit rough and missing like mad at 4,000rpm. This is seriously killing me now! I am going mad!

Always comes up with a fault code P0303. Sometimes will bring up P1000.

What am I missing???

Hi guys, im back! So after putting the car on the shelf for a while I sent it to my local auto electrician. He has had it now since December. This is his first yank car to work on, so he is unfamiliar to them. Obviously being here in the UK he usual works on European market cars.

He has done a lot of testing and so on and found the following......

This was his email to me,

I’ve worked my way through, basically from the beginning.
Compression test, obviously you had done this already, as you had supplied a compression tester. 
Crank / Phase both banks Timing check using oscilloscope, on idle. Although no DTC’s are present or have been present related to camshaft timing.
Coolant temperature sensor, and inlet temperature sensors have been checked, comparing live data though OBD, to infra-red temperature scale, comparison. All ok.
Fuel pressure sensor tested, with mechanical pressure gauge plumbed into the fuel lines. Diagnostic data correlates to the pressure gauge under load, and at idle.
Oxygen sensors seem to be functioning correctly during closed loop conditions. Both scope up good waveforms.
MAF, difficult for me to check with the ‘electronic adjuster’ on, as I have no DATUM point. Although certainly seems to show good signs.
I’ve smoke tested the entire inlet system, and found no leaks.
I’ve measured exhaust manifolds pressures both sides, and eliminated blocked exhaust or cats.
Ignition timing seems to be retarding when under load. This could be picking up some fake knock perhaps, and pulling timing. I’ve not pulled the sensors for analysis, they seem to be under the inlet manifold.
AFR’s become drastically lean after 3400rpm. No matter what is done in the map file. So I’ve not taken it past this point presently. 15-16:1 approx.
I’ve removed the injectors and sent them to ASNU for cleaning and grading. I’m hoping they come back with something interesting.

Seriously could do with loads of help here. I have done so much as mentioned in my earlier posts. This car is killing me and I miss it! Currently having to drive around in a Vauxhall Vectra and it sucks!

I can put any of you in touch with him to discuss further.

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks guys.

Hi guys, im back! So after putting the car on the shelf for a while I sent it to my local auto electrician. He has had it now since December. This is his first yank car to work on, so he is unfamiliar to them. Obviously being here in the UK he usual works on European market cars.

He has done a lot of testing and so on and found the following......

This was his email to me,

I’ve worked my way through, basically from the beginning.
Compression test, obviously you had done this already, as you had supplied a compression tester. 
Crank / Phase both banks Timing check using oscilloscope, on idle. Although no DTC’s are present or have been present related to camshaft timing.
Coolant temperature sensor, and inlet temperature sensors have been checked, comparing live data though OBD, to infra-red temperature scale, comparison. All ok.
Fuel pressure sensor tested, with mechanical pressure gauge plumbed into the fuel lines. Diagnostic data correlates to the pressure gauge under load, and at idle.
Oxygen sensors seem to be functioning correctly during closed loop conditions. Both scope up good waveforms.
MAF, difficult for me to check with the ‘electronic adjuster’ on, as I have no DATUM point. Although certainly seems to show good signs.
I’ve smoke tested the entire inlet system, and found no leaks.
I’ve measured exhaust manifolds pressures both sides, and eliminated blocked exhaust or cats.
Ignition timing seems to be retarding when under load. This could be picking up some fake knock perhaps, and pulling timing. I’ve not pulled the sensors for analysis, they seem to be under the inlet manifold.
AFR’s become drastically lean after 3400rpm. No matter what is done in the map file. So I’ve not taken it past this point presently. 15-16:1 approx.
I’ve removed the injectors and sent them to ASNU for cleaning and grading. I’m hoping they come back with something interesting.

Seriously could do with loads of help here. I have done so much as mentioned in my earlier posts. This car is killing me and I miss it! Currently having to drive around in a Vauxhall Vectra and it sucks!

I can put any of you in touch with him to discuss further.

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks guys.

Thanks for your advice on this. Obviously a new/ good second hand PCM here in the UK is not going to happen. I would need to ship from the US. My girlfriend mum ( mom to you guys ) and dad currently live in new Mexico. I could get them to send it to me. Just need advice on where to find one?