High Idle..again

[bentrotor]

HI new to the forum...lots of good info...but the age old high idle is still messing with my life .....adjusted the TPS ..and the lowest voltage I could get even after altering the holes to get it lower... 1.2 volts..have installed a new throttle body 70 m...and runs awesome...cept for the high idle...had it down to 850 the other day and all was great...pressure washed the engine and now it is back up to 1200...grrr..driving me nuts...was running when i washed it and did not really spray it all hard enough I dont think...but you never know...pull the vacume lines off and I get lots of suck and it seems strong.and rpm drops...disconnect the TPS and it drops the idle...but rough....but have not put a vacume tester on it yet...timed it as per the forum...and all was good...but high again...please let me know if you have any ideas...another thing I found is if I tap on the butter fly in the throttle housing it lowers the idle...is there a way to adjust the butterfly valve?..thanks in advance and enjoy your ride..

 

[notch351]

have you checked your IAC? sounds like it may be sticking. you could try cleaning it out. if that works though I would go replace it if your ride has higher miles. also if you can move the butter fly on the throttle body and it lowers the rpm your cable could be binding or something. as for adjustment most throttle bodies have some way to adjust idle like a set screw or something

 

[jsw81]

What brand throttle body do you have? I had some chinese garbage on mine and could not get the idle lower than 1k rpms. Also the throttle blade was binding because it was not machined correctly. I installed the stocker and problem solved. Try bolting on your stock throttle body and see if it changes.

IAC is also worth looking at like mentioned by notch351.

 

[jrichker]

See the "Surging Idle Checklist” for help with all your idle/stall problems. You can guess at the problem and throw parts at it, or you can use the checklist to help you find the problem quickly and inexpensively. It’s free and doesn’t cost anything: at last count there were more than 103,000 visits and still climbing

The quick and easy way to dump the codes is in there too, and all you need to do it is a paper clip! The first two posts contain all the fixes & updates. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/698148-help-me-create-surging-idle-checklist.html#post6855020 for the best way to set the mechanical base idle and cleaning procedure for the IAC/IAB.

Do the "Surging Idle Checklist , it will help you find and fix the problem easier.

You guys with idle problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix you idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix. :

It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 99,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.


Go back and read the first page and the first two post on that page. All the tests and fixes are there. Once you have a specific question about one or more of the tests or fixes, make another post with your results. I will try to help you resolve your problems.

If you have worked all the way through the "Surging Idle Checklist” and it is still broke, then purchase a new IAC. Be sure that you do not skip a step, because that might be the very thing that fixes your problem.

The reason I am so insistent about not skipping any steps is that I cannot be there to see, hear and feel what the engine is doing. The only way I know to compensate for that is to create a laundry list of steps that cover all the possible conditions.

 

[bentrotor]

Hey thanks for all the great info.....went and bought a code reader...pointed me straight to the tps...which is where i figured the problem is...says TPS signal out of range...which is what i had already found when i checked the voltage...made the TPS adjustable and still could not get it below 1.2 volts at idle..so have ordered a new one and willl let you know what happens...and thanks again..

 

[HISSIN50]

What code did you get exactly? 1.2V should have been within spec.

 

[jrichker]

My TPS voltage figures are on the conservative side, but will keep you out of trouble.

Setting the TPS: you'll need a good Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job. Set the TPS voltage at .5- 1.1 range. Because of the variables involved with the tolerances of both computer and DVM, I would shoot for somewhere between .6 and 1.0 volts. Unless you have a Fluke or other high grade DVM, the second digit past the decimal point on cheap DVM’s is probably fantasy. Since the computer zeros out the TPS voltage every time it powers up, playing with the settings isn't an effective aid to performance or drivability. The main purpose of checking the TPS is to make sure it isn't way out of range and causing problems.


Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

TPS troubleshooting steps:
1.) Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.
2.) Use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage. Try this... All you need is less than 1.0 volt at idle and more than 4.25 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). You'll need a voltmeter with a 1 or 3 volt low scale to do the job.

The Orange/White wire is the VREF 5 volts from the computer. You use the Dark Green/Lt green wire (TPS signal) and the Black/White wire (TPS ground) to set the TPS. Use a pair of safety pins to probe the TPS connector from the rear of the connector. You may find it a little difficult to make a good connection, but keep trying. Put the safety pins in the Dark Green/Lt green wire and Black/White wire. Make sure the ignition switch is in the Run position but the engine isn't running. Set the voltmeter on the 2 volt range if it doesn’t auto range.

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)

A.) Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

B.) When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

C.) Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.

D.) The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.

The TPS is a variable resistor, must like the volume control knob on a cheap radio. We have all heard them crackle and pop when the volume is adjusted. The TPS sensor has the same problem: wear on the resistor element makes places that create electrical noise. This electrical noise confuses the computer, because it expects to see a smooth increase or decrease as the throttle is opened or closed.

TPS testing: most of the time a failed TPS will set code 23 or 63, but not always. Use either an analog meter or a DVM with an analog bar graph and connect the leads as instructed above. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage with the throttle closed. Slowly open the throttle and watch the voltage increase smoothly, slowly close the throttle and watch the voltage decrease smoothly. If the voltage jumps around and isn’t smooth, the TPS has some worn places in the resistor element. When the throttle is closed, make sure that the voltage is the same as what it was when you started. If it varies more than 10%, the TPS is suspect of being worn in the idle range of its travel.

 

[Killa]

Buy an IAC ( idle air control ) from advance auto part, and put it in, if it not fix the problem , you can take it back, mine did high idle and i went thru alot of thing and cant fix it, i event clean the IAC, but after one last try, i bought a new IAC and it fix my high stuck idle right away.

 

[HISSIN50]

Part of JRichker's sticky shows how to isolate the IAC to see if it is a cause of the high idle.
The logic in the sticky also takes the throttle-blade displacement into consideration, which can cause the TPS to read artificially high.

 

[bentrotor]

HI...the codes i got were 23 and 63...tps out of range....found a new one for cheep and pick it up tomorrow..have tested mine and found the lowest I could get my idle voltage was 1.2 and some of you are saying this is ok but read somewhere in here that 1.2 volts is mid range fuel delievery??...i believe this is what it said anyways...but have not tried testing it to see if I get a steady change in voltage to full throttle yet...am going to try that tomorrow and will let you know....thanks again

 

[bentrotor]

Hello again...ok..finally got my new TPS...old one voltage was 1.2 at idle...code was 23and 63...replaced the TPS...new voltage .8 volts....and idles at 750 solid and steady...cost/...code reader 35 bucks...TPS 41 bucks.....steady idle at 750...priceless....
thanks for your help once again..