HiTech Stg. 2 vs. Comp 262's vs. Comp 270's

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 15, 2011

I am finally ready to do the cam thing and I'd really like to hear some expect advice regarding these cams.

I know the HiTechs will probably make the most peak HP, but I cant find a lot of info regarding how they perform throughout the power band. Also, regarding the Comps, I've heard that the difference between the 262's and 270's is negligible so the 262's are the "better buy".

I'm mainly interested in how the cams perform throughout the RPM band, not just peak numbers. Sound is also a factor but not nearly important as the above mentioned criteria.

I will also be doing things like LT's and intake mods in the near future, so as far as planning ahead, the car will have:

CAI
TB
plenum
LT's
O/R mid-pipe

I appreciate any feedback.

N8Dogg98 · Mar 15, 2011

My understanding is the 262's give a decent overall gain in torque across the RPM band, but will have the lowest peak HP out of those three. Hi-tech's make good average power as well but really out perform the 262's above 4500 RPM. While the 270's will lose power up to around 3000-3500 RPM's and provide the most peak HP out of those three cam choices.

I am no expert and have no experience with any of these cams, but for some reason what I said above does sound right to me based on years of reading internet forums.

Best of luck to you and you may want to consider giving Nick McKinney at MHS a call or send him an e-mail. He's very helpful and is definitely one of the most knowledgable 2V engine gurus. I have a pair of his cams on order and he did a very nice job explaining my options and what to expect with each cam I was considering.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Mar 15, 2011

hitech's hands down of the three, comp's suck

Dark04GT · Mar 15, 2011

Nightfire said:
I'm mainly interested in how the cams perform throughout the RPM band, not just peak numbers. Sound is also a factor but not nearly important as the above mentioned criteria.

I will also be doing things like LT's and intake mods in the near future, so as far as planning ahead, the car will have:

Of the three cams you have listed the hitechs stage 2's match that description perfectly and are what I would recommend of the 3.

Four recommendations:
1) install springs with the cams
2) Degree the cams when they are installed
3) dyno tune
4) Optional- you will be approaching the max for the stock fuel injectors once you get all of the parts on your list, you might want to consider 24lb injectors (19lbs @ 90% duty cycle supports ~304rwhp)

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 15, 2011

Dark04GT said:
Of the three cams you have listed the hitechs stage 2's match that description perfectly and are what I would recommend of the 3.

Four recommendations:
1) install springs with the cams
2) Degree the cams when they are installed
3) dyno tune
4) Optional- you will be approaching the max for the stock fuel injectors once you get all of the parts on your list, you might want to consider 24lb injectors (19lbs @ 90% duty cycle supports ~304rwhp)

Hmmm didnt even think of the fuel injectors. I'll look into those as well.

Night Shifter · Mar 16, 2011

definitely get a bigger fuel pump... We just had 2 hitech cammed cars out here, both with stock pumps, and they were both 100% max duty on the stock fuel pump

FWIW my car ran way better after i switched to 24's and it actually made the coms lope for a change...made me excited to hear them lol

TOOLOW91 · Mar 16, 2011

a bit of a noob question cam wise, but on topic do any of the above cams need to have the pistons fly cut or is ptv clearence not an issue with any of the cams mentioned?

txredgt · Mar 16, 2011

toolow91 said:
a bit of a noob question cam wise, but on topic do any of the above cams need to have the pistons fly cut or is ptv clearence not an issue with any of the cams mentioned?

PTV is an issue if you don't degree the cams, Hitech's claim they don't need to be degreed for their stage 2's but why risk that. If the cams are degreed properly I have not heard of having to notch the pistons with the cams mentioned.

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 16, 2011

toolow91 said:
a bit of a noob question cam wise, but on topic do any of the above cams need to have the pistons fly cut or is ptv clearence not an issue with any of the cams mentioned?

+1 what ahall said.

I dont know who the hell would install new cams and not degree them. Thats just dumb.

AntiRice98 · Mar 16, 2011

Here is my old stang with PI heads and comp 262's. If you get a decent tune where you can turn the idle down to about 700-800 you get a nice little rumble. I liked them..Good for daily driving.

Idle video by mustangman4900 - Photobucket

Maxpowers · Mar 17, 2011

I think you need to keep in mind your overall purpose for the car. Is this going to be a DD with a few track runs, or the other way around?

If I'm not mistaken, your car is an auto. Depending on which cams you get, you may want to think about the addition of a higher stall.

Edit: Do the cams last. Get all the supporting mods on the car first, then do the cams, and get a dyno tune. No reason to get a good tune and then add parts to the car.

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 18, 2011

Maxpowers said:
Edit: Do the cams last. Get all the supporting mods on the car first, then do the cams, and get a dyno tune. No reason to get a good tune and then add parts to the car.

Ugh, after so long of trying to make up my mind and finally doing so, you go and post this? Now Im second-guessing......again.

Here's the deal, I'm a full-time college student with a decent job (for now) that pays the bills. However, there isn't much money at all that I am able to save up. As some may remember, I was in a car accident in October of 2009. I was awarded (and just now received) an award of a few thousand dollars for my "pain and suffering", on top of having all my related expenses taken care of. So, I wanted to put this money into my car (since she the one that really suffered).

Since cams are the most expensive of my future mods, I wanted to get those done with this money, then slowly save up to get the lesser expensive mods done in the future. If I do everything else (TB, plenum, LT's, midpipe, etc) with the settlement cash then I dont want to even think about how long it would be until I could afford to do cams (if at all).

What would SN do?

txredgt · Mar 18, 2011

Nightfire said:
Ugh, after so long of trying to make up my mind and finally doing so, you go and post this? Now Im second-guessing......again.

Here's the deal, I'm a full-time college student with a decent job (for now) that pays the bills. However, there isn't much money at all that I am able to save up. As some may remember, I was in a car accident in October of 2009. I was awarded (and just now received) an award of a few thousand dollars for my "pain and suffering", on top of having all my related expenses taken care of. So, I wanted to put this money into my car (since she the one that really suffered).

Since cams are the most expensive of my future mods, I wanted to get those done with this money, then slowly save up to get the lesser expensive mods done in the future. If I do everything else (TB, plenum, LT's, midpipe, etc) with the settlement cash then I dont want to even think about how long it would be until I could afford to do cams (if at all).

What would SN do?

That's a tough call I think because you have the cash for the cams but no other supporting mods (Im assuming). From the list you posted and your sig it looks like you have an off-road pipe already. I think if it were me I would wait until cams AND long tubes could be dyno-tuned. Those 2 mods paired up will change things the most imo and will need the dyno tune most. You will also need the new mid pipe as well with it too though so that is more cash. At that point its only 2 mods away from where you want to be in the end so maybe just wait another month or 2 for the cash for the other 2 parts?

Getting 2 dyno tunes though to me would be overkill for a non power adder car, I would wait until at least the lt's and cams man.

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 18, 2011

Maxpowers said:
I think you need to keep in mind your overall purpose for the car. Is this going to be a DD with a few track runs, or the other way around?

DD car with a few track runs.

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 18, 2011

ahall2004 said:
That's a tough call I think because you have the cash for the cams but no other supporting mods (Im assuming). From the list you posted and your sig it looks like you have an off-road pipe already. I think if it were me I would wait until cams AND long tubes could be dyno-tuned. Those 2 mods paired up will change things the most imo and will need the dyno tune most. You will also need the new mid pipe as well with it too though so that is more cash. At that point its only 2 mods away from where you want to be in the end so maybe just wait another month or 2 for the cash for the other 2 parts?

Getting 2 dyno tunes though to me would be overkill for a non power adder car, I would wait until at least the lt's and cams man.

I sent BAMA Tuning (since I have an SCT tuner from AM) an email and I'll give them a call, but do you think a mail-order tune could hold me over until I got some of the other mods done, then dyno tune?

Winters98GT · Mar 18, 2011

There have been so many cars that have blown with 270's over the years, degreed, etc. I wouldn't do it.

Many years ago, I remember stock head 2v's making 280-300rwhp with the 262's. Most of them were on Modular Depot.

Dark04GT · Mar 18, 2011

Nightfire said:
I sent BAMA Tuning (since I have an SCT tuner from AM) an email and I'll give them a call, but do you think a mail-order tune could hold me over until I got some of the other mods done, then dyno tune?

BAMA tuning will never be able to get your tune right for cams w/o a dyno if that is what you are trying to do.

If a FI or nitrous is not in your future than I would take it slow. Money is the obvious constraint. Cams are expensive, you are looking at about greater than $1200. You are a student, I understand the mentality (I've been in college for a long time- undergrad and grad), you want something fast but you need something reliable. Cams completely change that and put your car out of commission while it is getting the cams installed and tuned. IMO with a limited budget I would buy up the bolt ons on your list. Bolt ons are much cheaper to install (most are free to install, even LT's are cheaper than cams), you get free tunes from bama, and you don't sacrifice any reliability. You will max out @ 260-270 rwhp, but really, that is pretty decent for a student on a limited budget. Than when everything is done, cam it and get your dyno tune.

sneaky98gt · Mar 18, 2011

I'd do the other things first because they can make gains without a tune, and if you do get a mail order tune, they can be accounted for closely enough. Cams will require a good dyno tune to really get right, and you want your dyno tune to be the last thing done.

Maxpowers · Mar 18, 2011

Do all the supporting mods. Every time you upgrade after the dyno tune, you will have to get another one. You may be able to get away with it for a few hundred miles, but your motor will have thousands of miles knocked off it's life.

IMO, spend the cash getting all the supporting mods done. Get the updated BAMA tune, and then start saving for cams.

Deleted member 38176 · Mar 18, 2011

Alright, I think thats what Im going to do.

I spoke with BAMA and they said that they wouldn't be able to write a tune for cams because they wouldn't be able to dial in the idle control functions properly.

Thanks for the advice fellas

HiTech Stg. 2 vs. Comp 262's vs. Comp 270's

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