Holley experts please!!!! ?

OK, installed my new Street Avenger 670 yesterday, finally got all the fuel lines not to leak. Fuel pressure is at 7psi. Floats are adjusted properly right below site glass. The problem is that it is idling at 1200-1500 rpm's and i cant get it to go lower. I have the idle screw backed out all the way. i made sure the linkage isnt sticking, i even disconnected the throttle rod to no avail. i dont have the choke connected so its not that. i tried getting it off of fast idle by revving quick, didnt work. even after a 20 minute test drive, it was idling at 1500 rpm's. if i disconnect the vacuum advance line, it idles down to around 1000, but that is still real high considering the base timing is now at 8' and the idle screw is all the way out. i figure its just reving to 1500 because its advancing the timing to 30'. what else could it be? i love holleys once u get them working right, but this is just annoying. like i said, i dont really suspect a vacuum leak since the test drive went great, the car was strong except for this pesky idle problem. :shrug:
 
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The vacuum advance should not have any vacuum signal at idle. It should be connected to the front metering block port which is between the main body and the float bowl. You did not mention if you have an electric choke. If you do it must be connected so that it can heat up the bi-metal spring inside the choke housing so that it will come off of fast idle.
 
84convertablegt said:
i dont have the choke connected so its not that. i tried getting it off of fast idle by revving quick, :
Well that might not be enough due to your choke being disconnected. You will have to push the fast idle cam down while opening the throttle. If its a man. choke just push the lever foreward. Check for vacuum leaks, you may have one. try stuffing a rag over the carb bores, if you have no vacuum leaks it will stall. can you post a picture of the top of the engine? Did you remember to plug the vac port in the rear? Vince
 
yes, all of the vacuum ports are plugged right now. i reused the gasket for the carb since the old one was only on for 100 miles, so maybe ill check that. about the choke, its an electric choke and no its not connected but this has never been a problem on any of my other carbs before. ive never connected a choke. i probably should have just bought a manual choke model instead. im gonna try resealing the carb and ill look at the fast idle a little closer.
 
1965pony said:
Well that might not be enough due to your choke being disconnected. You will have to push the fast idle cam down while opening the throttle. If its a man. choke just push the lever foreward.
:banana:
Ok, thats the problem. the choke was like halfway through its cycle and stuck there. I connected it and let it run all the way through its cycle and everything is working good now. i think i will convert to manual choke though, i just like being in control of that stuff :p
 
yeah, for now its hooked up. ill see how i like it, its the first time ive actually used a choke. i never drive in the cold so its never really been neccesary. oh well, we shall try it out! i hooked it up to the heater blower motor wire since its hot when the key is on.
 
There should be a tab off your regulator that you can use as well.

The correct terminal to use is the S terminal on your alternator. That way you only get voltage when the car is running, which is how the factory did it on later models. It's also a cleaner install.
 
thats a good point about the car running, but i guess if i did that, i would use the wire going to the coil, since its not on the resistor wire anymore. it doesnt get much cleaner than running to the heater wire though. its about 5-10 inches from the choke and looks good. very invisible