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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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hot starts....annoying....

  • Thread starter Thread starter VIPERn94Five-0
  • Start date Start date May 14, 2004
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VIPERn94Five-0

Founding Member
Apr 28, 2002
3,352
2
58
Poughkeepsie, NY
May 14, 2004
#1
  • May 14, 2004
  • #1
when i go to start my car for the first time of the day it starts like a champ...and when the temp needle is below the normal sweep its fine...but if i run the car for a while and the car doesnt sit for a long period of time sometimes it just starts like crap...sometimes it will just crank, and crank, and crank....it only does this when warm....

....another issue...when the car first starts up....the first one or two times i brake to a stop the revs die, it doesnt shut off but they drop down real low and then kick back up....this issue i think i may have narrowed down to an old fuel filter/worn out fuel pump because it seems like it happens when im around a 1/4 tank or lower.....


....would the fuel filter/pump cause problem #1 by any chance???


Anthony
 

S/CBlack95GT

New Member
Apr 6, 2003
2,018
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0
Tampa Palms, FL
May 14, 2004
#2
  • May 14, 2004
  • #2
My car had the same hot restart problem as yours when it was bone stock. If I stopped somewhere to get gas it would just crank and crank. Id have to let off the key and then hit it again to fire. After I installed the intake and TB I never had it again, and that was 4 years ago. This is common problem for the 94-95s. Some say the ACT sensor being away from the manifold causes it, but if that is true why did mine stop?

Your second problem is really common as well. Sometimes the computer is just a little slow. My car use to do it a lot when cold and it was N/A, but since the blower addition it has never done it. Knock on wood I guess.
 

VIPERn94Five-0

Founding Member
Apr 28, 2002
3,352
2
58
Poughkeepsie, NY
May 14, 2004
#3
  • May 14, 2004
  • #3
S/CBlack95GT said:
My car had the same hot restart problem as yours when it was bone stock. If I stopped somewhere to get gas it would just crank and crank. Id have to let off the key and then hit it again to fire. After I installed the intake and TB I never had it again, and that was 4 years ago. This is common problem for the 94-95s. Some say the ACT sensor being away from the manifold causes it, but if that is true why did mine stop?

Your second problem is really common as well. Sometimes the computer is just a little slow. My car use to do it a lot when cold and it was N/A, but since the blower addition it has never done it. Knock on wood I guess.
Click to expand...
i guess just something ive got to learn to deal with huh?....im still gonna swap out that old fuel filter (had a new one sitting around for months just have had the drive to get down there and do it)....it cant hurt since im pretty sure its original....67k OUCH!


Anthony
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
0
56
Republic, MO
May 14, 2004
#4
  • May 14, 2004
  • #4
Mines doing all the above. If you find an answer let me know. I don't have the funds right now to throw parts and sensors at it.

The part about slowing down for a stop sign is REALLY bad. My alternator charge dances all over the place and the stock tach drops to 300 rpm. It's even died a couple times. I was curious if the under-drives were dropping the charge level so much that it was causing the pump to not have enough voltage to pump the fuel??

I now stop with both feet and touch the gas as I stop. I also thought it could have something to do with my brakes. The rotors are warped pretty bad. Now that the auto-x I was running in is over, I'm going to change those out. I hope that helps the situation.

I'll try to post back with results....
 

GTJake

Founding Member
Oct 28, 2002
3,049
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56
Ann Arbor, MI
May 14, 2004
#5
  • May 14, 2004
  • #5
Some people have tried a new stator in the distributor and it worked.

Jake
 

raven69david

Founding Member
Mar 1, 2002
112
0
0
San Antonio, Texas
May 14, 2004
#6
  • May 14, 2004
  • #6
This problem is very typical of a bad fuel pump. I have had 2 fuel pumps crap out on me with the same symptoms described. The car will start fine in the morning, however after you go to the store or the car gets realy hot and you stop somewhere, it takes a long time for the car to restart. Eventually it will die and leave you stranded somewhere until the car cools off, then it will turn back on, but for a little while only. Worth taking a look at.
 
I

InWhatGear

New Member
Mar 25, 2004
55
0
0
May 15, 2004
#7
  • May 15, 2004
  • #7
raven69david said:
This problem is very typical of a bad fuel pump. I have had 2 fuel pumps crap out on me with the same symptoms described. The car will start fine in the morning, however after you go to the store or the car gets realy hot and you stop somewhere, it takes a long time for the car to restart. Eventually it will die and leave you stranded somewhere until the car cools off, then it will turn back on, but for a little while only. Worth taking a look at.
Click to expand...

Having this problem right now. Same problem I had in my 89 5.0. Is there a better fuel pump that can be bought, cause obviously, the factory fuel pumps aren't worth s**t.
 
S

SuperSync

Founding Member
Jul 20, 2002
241
0
0
Asheville, NC
May 15, 2004
#8
  • May 15, 2004
  • #8
I wouldn't chalk it up completely to a bad fuel pump...

I've tried two new Walbro's since I've had this car and it usually will not hot start good at all. Typically if I stop at a gas station the car will not restart for about 5 mins. I don't know what the gremlin is. It just turns and turns but won't hit at all.

SS
 
I

InWhatGear

New Member
Mar 25, 2004
55
0
0
May 15, 2004
#9
  • May 15, 2004
  • #9
SuperSync said:
I wouldn't chalk it up completely to a bad fuel pump...

I've tried two new Walbro's since I've had this car and it usually will not hot start good at all. Typically if I stop at a gas station the car will not restart for about 5 mins. I don't know what the gremlin is. It just turns and turns but won't hit at all.
Click to expand...


Someone suggested to me that it might be my TFI module causing this problem. That being the case then I have three questions:

1. What is a TFI module?
2. Where is the TFI module on my car?
3. Is there a way to test it for faultiness?
 

raven69david

Founding Member
Mar 1, 2002
112
0
0
San Antonio, Texas
May 15, 2004
#10
  • May 15, 2004
  • #10
You can buy Walbro 255lph pumps for about $100 bux, just check around. Anything is better than the stock pump. All the Mustang mags will sell them so you can look there, although i would check classifieds here or on Corral....tons of them for less than $100.
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
Founding Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,153
32
128
Saint Louis, MO
May 16, 2004
#11
  • May 16, 2004
  • #11
I had this problem and I'm sure it was my original starter. After getting hot it would "heat soak" and not start until I let it cool off some by opening the hood. The starter drages and pulls more current than normal which drops the electical system voltage below the point that the coil can keep the spark high enough to jump the plug gap. After putting Jet-Hot ceramic coated headers and a high torque mini starter in my car, the problem is long gone and I have had the same TFI and distributor stator in since I bought the car.
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
0
56
Republic, MO
May 16, 2004
#12
  • May 16, 2004
  • #12
My 190 walbro fuel pump is 1 year old, my starter is only 9 months old.... next suggestion.
 

Mrgreen94gt

SIMMA DA NA!!!
Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
448
0
0
West TN
May 16, 2004
#13
  • May 16, 2004
  • #13
I get this problem about every year or so. Usually clears up with a new dist. cap and rotor. The shouldn't need replacing so often but it sees to work.
 
I

InWhatGear

New Member
Mar 25, 2004
55
0
0
May 16, 2004
#14
  • May 16, 2004
  • #14
I did a search at Google on TFI modules and found this:
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=&did=362
Most of it is recall crap but there is one part that refers to the problem it causes:

This sounds like what could be buggin' my car. So I'm going to try this first, and if that doesn't cure it then I'll try the fuel pump. These things are only about $50-$60 bucks and a hell of alot easier to change than a fuel pump, but don't go looking for them on the distributor on SN 94-95 cars. They moved them to the passenger side fender, under the air filter.
 
S

SuperSync

Founding Member
Jul 20, 2002
241
0
0
Asheville, NC
May 16, 2004
#15
  • May 16, 2004
  • #15
The TFI was moved under the air cleaner assembly to promote better cooling across the device. Ford will NEVER admit the TFI was put in a bad spot when mounted directly to a heatsink on the distributor itself, but ask any auto parts guy who's been there a while and I'm sure he's sold a lot of TFI's that were mounted directly to the distributor, above or on the side of a hot engine.

My dad's been through about 5 of them on his 1985 Ford F-150. The better job you do smoothing the dieletric grease to promote heat transfer, the longer they lasted...

So go figure.

The TFI failure is usually indicitive of no start when hot, starts right up after sitting a while...so a TFI replacement is a good first step, however they are not as much of an issue on our year's cars since they have been relocated to a cooler place.

SS
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
0
56
Republic, MO
May 17, 2004
#16
  • May 17, 2004
  • #16
I subscribed to this thread.... let us know how it works out for you. If it works for you, it's worth $60 to try here, and I'll post my results back too. Maybe we can keep a small record for future viewers.
 

94TURBO5 O

New Member
Mar 14, 2004
2,509
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0
VA
May 17, 2004
#17
  • May 17, 2004
  • #17
Are any of you getting any spark when this happens? I would check for those problems as well like your coil, dist.stator and plugs. I would listen if you hear your pump engages by just turning the key to the on position.
 
I

InWhatGear

New Member
Mar 25, 2004
55
0
0
May 17, 2004
#18
  • May 17, 2004
  • #18
SuperSync said:
The TFI was moved under the air cleaner assembly to promote better cooling across the device.
Click to expand...
That's what I figured too, but under the hood of my car anyway, I doubt there is any cool spots. And it's not that the car runs too hot,
the temp gauge never gets past half way, then the fan kicks in and brings it down to around a quater.


94SC50 said:
I would listen if you hear your pump engages by just turning the key to the on position.
Click to expand...
I'm having doubts about it being the fuel pump either because I can hear it everytime I turn the the key to the "ON" position, plus I checked the it at the schrader valve a couple of hours after it had been sitting, and still had lots of pressure. Mind you I just stuck a screwdriver in it, and a big gusher of gas came out. I didn't actually pressure test it with a guage.


gcomfx.com said:
I subscribed to this thread.... let us know how it works out for you. If it works for you, it's worth $60 to try here, and I'll post my results back too. Maybe we can keep a small record for future viewers.
Click to expand...
I won't be changing it till at least Wednesday, (payday), but I'll definitely keep ya posted.
 
T

tm95gt

New Member
Jun 24, 2005
6
0
0
Aug 29, 2005
#19
  • Aug 29, 2005
  • #19
I have a similar problem, my car will start but I have to put my foot to the floor. It usually starts. This problem appeared after I replaced my head gasket. My car will start perfect in the morning,after driving it for awhile it will start to run really rich and stall or idle real bad. I have replaced sensors but no change. I have noticed that the fuel pressure gauge seems to jump around when the car starts to act up. My first thought was the fuel pump but its new along with the filter,wires,cap,rotor,distributor,and related sensors. I haven't a clue,it ran faster,and flawless before the h.gasket went.
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
Founding Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,153
32
128
Saint Louis, MO
Aug 30, 2005
#20
  • Aug 30, 2005
  • #20
Use a Mity-vac and check the fuel pressure regulator for a leaking diaphragm as that will suck gas right into the intake.
 
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