How are you guys installing/compressing your front springs?

JustaMustangguy

New Member
Aug 14, 2009
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I'm trying to install a set of b springs with the isolators on a '89 lx. Does anybody have photos/write ups or what tools to use to install these? I just screwed around with an internal compressor for about 2 hours and didn't gain anything. I'm back where i started. Maybe i'm doing this wrong idk. I got the spring compressed way down. But i literally couldn't turn the bolt anymore to compress the spring enough to actually raise the a-arm high enough so that i could install the strut to spindle bolts... Any help! Thanks
 
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This is the safest way I found to do it without a compressor, in a nutshell:

Bolt the strut back up without a spring in there. Make sure you don't have the steering linkage still attached to the spindle, and you may have to loosen the steering rack and wiggle it out of the way a bit. Unbolt and remove the two inner hinge bolts/nuts on the a-arm, and let the inner part of the a-arm drop. Set the spring in the perch on the a-arm, and raise it into position as close as you can get with just your hands. Position a jack under the flattest part of the a-arm, and run a ratcheting tie-down strap through the a-arm. SLOWLY and CAREFULLY, use the jack to raise the arm back into its hinge points, and use the ratcheting strap to make SMALL adjustments side-to-side as needed to properly align the hinge holes. You'll have to run the strap through other parts of the chassis as leverage, I think I had it going through parts of the radiator support. You shouldn't have to move the arm a lot with the strap, if you do, you need to just lower the jack and start over. Once you get the holes lined up, slip the hinge bolts back in place, spin the nuts on hand tight, and lower the car. Don't torque the hinge bolts/nuts down until the car's weight is on the front wheels. You'll probably have to set the car's tires on blocks to be able to get under the car with a torque wrench.

I liked this method because the spring compresses linearly. The cheater way of doing it where you unbolt the strut and do it that way makes the spring arc out more than I am comfortable with.

Good luck!
 
ive always done it with another person. most aftermarket springs are short enough, i just bring the strut down, make the control arm lay down some, then push the spring in. so put the spring in up top, get the jack underneath the control arm, i usually push with my foot while a friend prys up on the spring (crow bar through the spring perch in the control arm prying up on it, then once its in i hold it with my foot while he puts the jack up. its notunder that much tension so if my foot came off it wouldnt fly at us .
 
I don't have pictures or a write up of the best way to do it...but what I can show you is all the hair I pulled out when I was trying to get my springs in :(
 
You people are all insane :nonono:

Play it safe when removing the stock springs, even if you use your belt off your trousers.

I saw that foot method once, didnt end up too well. I like having both of my jewels in tact... :nice:

Edit: that is of course when your removing the springs, installing is a different story.
 
ive always done it with another person. most aftermarket springs are short enough, i just bring the strut down, make the control arm lay down some, then push the spring in. so put the spring in up top, get the jack underneath the control arm, i usually push with my foot while a friend prys up on the spring (crow bar through the spring perch in the control arm prying up on it, then once its in i hold it with my foot while he puts the jack up. its notunder that much tension so if my foot came off it wouldnt fly at us .

this.
 
... S..h..u..d..d..e..r.... I hate front springs! The ones on my 92 literally kicked my ass. I had so much trouble getting them in. They were Eibach Pro Kit springs. Yep, I tried the method where you remove the 2 rear FCA bolts and raise it in with a jack. I couldn't get that method to work for the life of me. As I was jacking it up, when the FCA bolt holes got within 1 inch of the K-member holes, it started lifting the whole car up. It just wouldn't compress any more. I went through 3 different spring compressor tools, tried prying the mofo in with a crowbar.. HAH.. HEYYLLL NO. What I finally ended up doing, (Do this at your own risk) , I first compressed the spring real good with a threaded clamp style tool. Then I strapped on seven (7) 4 inch metal hose clamps (the adjustable type), tightened them down then removed the compressor and installed the spring like nothing happened. After I bolted the strut back up, I cut off most of the clamps and re-used a couple others. Did the same for the other side and that time it only took me 45 minutes. It pays to have an electric impact wrench to tighten/loosen the spring compressor tool, otherwise it will take a long time to get them down to size enough. I'm not sure how safe this method is, but it seemed safe enough long as you didn't muck around with the spring. All the clamps were secure and wern't ripping out or anything. BTW, I learned this from another member on here. I can't remember who it was, but thanks again... whoever you are lol :D

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Edit
Ok I found out who it was that gave me that brilliant idea. It was MustangOwner
Alas the guy has been banned. What a shame. That was 3 years ago almost.
 
... S..h..u..d..d..e..r.... I hate front springs! The ones on my 92 literally kicked my ass. I had so much trouble getting them in. They were Eibach Pro Kit springs. Yep, I tried the method where you remove the 2 rear FCA bolts and raise it in with a jack. I couldn't get that method to work for the life of me. As I was jacking it up, when the FCA bolt holes got within 1 inch of the K-member holes, it started lifting the whole car up. It just wouldn't compress any more. I went through 3 different spring compressor tools, tried prying the mofo in with a crowbar.. HAH.. HEYYLLL NO. What I finally ended up doing, (Do this at your own risk) , I first compressed the spring real good with a threaded clamp style tool. Then I strapped on seven (7) 4 inch metal hose clamps (the adjustable type), tightened them down then removed the compressor and installed the spring like nothing happened. After I bolted the strut back up, I cut off most of the clamps and re-used a couple others. Did the same for the other side and that time it only took me 45 minutes. It pays to have an electric impact wrench to tighten/loosen the spring compressor tool, otherwise it will take a long time to get them down to size enough. I'm not sure how safe this method is, but it seemed safe enough long as you didn't muck around with the spring. All the clamps were secure and wern't ripping out or anything. BTW, I learned this from another member on here. I can't remember who it was, but thanks again... whoever you are lol :D

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Edit
Ok I found out who it was that gave me that brilliant idea. It was MustangOwner
Alas the guy has been banned. What a shame. That was 3 years ago almost.

There was a thread a while back (and it may have been started by that guy), where someone was condoning that method, and I remember it got blown out of hand and there was a lot of flaming going on. All I can say is whenever I see pictures of the "hose clamp method", I get chills down my spine, haha. That's some scary backwoods hillbilly ****.
 
remove old spring, dont die while doing it, buy coilover kit, and staples "easy" button.

Instally spring on coilover, jack up a-arm, guide strut into place, bolt it on, press said easy button, and your done.

And now, when you wanna adjust your ride height, you dont have to go through all that BS again and cut a spring, you can just turn an adjuster
 
B-springs are shorter than stock springs so they should be as hard to compress. Stock springs are a PITA to install without an internal spring compressor. I did it once but now that I had to do it again on my 91 GT...I couldn't do it without the compressor. You really gotta crank it tight. Then get it set in there, jack up the lower control arm with a floor jack and get the spring seated. Then bolt up your strut if you can.

Once it's bolted up, start loosening the spring compressor. You think that you need to keep tightening the thing, but if you do...the stud hits the K-frame and will raise the car. I battled with that and didn't know it was hitting the K-frame.

I also kept the socket and extension on the bolt and through the hole in the LCA arm. When I try installing it without the socket on the nut....it got on such an angle I couldn't get the socket back in there on the nut.
 
Hey, that hose clamp method works man. Hillbilly method or not. As long as you dont skimp on how many clamps you put in, it will be fine. If it wern't for that method, I'd probably of been battling and cussing those things out for another couple weeks. I had tried a buck load of methods before that. Now that I read my own thread, I found it was 5 different compressors. 1 didn't fit cause it was the wrong one, another one broke, the rest were just fail attempts. I have 2 of the 5 in my tool box now. I use one of those (that I modified) to get the spring in. Another thing, you can't put the spring in while the compressor tool is still attached. That was the sole reason I went through so many of them. The tool got in the way.. or should I say tool & LCA and/or K-member. Once I did get it in there, but then I found out I couldn't get the tool off the spring because the tool stud was locked in. Idk... I just wanted that **** DONE after messing with it for so damn long. I WAS relieved I got them done... redneck method or not.

Oh and might I add, finding a sturdy piece of wood to place between the jack and the LCA, HAH.... I went through 4 pieces of 2x6 / 2x8. Buggers kept snapping in the middle later on (dangerous). If you must, find a sturdy piece of oak. Pine just breaks too easily.