The oil pressure gauge will screw into log where you stock sensor is located. You have to remove you stock sending unit and replace it with the new sender that comes with the gauge. There is a way to keep both the stock and aftermarket senders, but I dont know how.
The water temp will replace the sending unit in the lower intake with the supplied aftermarket sender. I left my factory one in place and installed my aftermarket in the water neck.
You will also have to run ground and power wires for the back lighting and sender if the gauges are electric and not mechanical.
I use mechanical, not electrical gauges, i don't like the sender idea.
Very simple, replace the water temp sensor in the intake (you need an adapter) with the gauge line. Has a thermometer thing that screws right in.
Oil pressure gets a little tube that replaces the sender completely with a fitting. run tube to gauge location.
DO NOT under any circumstances run the car without that hose in the gauge. I also suggest not using the plastic tubing some gauges come with, since they get brittle. You can get copper cheap, or a braided line.
I connected the power for the lights to the wire that controls the lights on the a/c heat panel.
TBS, the one issue you might encounter is that if your t-stat sticks closed, your AM gauge will not reflect true motor temps. You might note that the gauge is slow to warm up in the morning too (until the t-stat opens). I'd switch them around.
For the OP stuff, the stock sender is 1/4" NPT and most aftermarket versions are 1/8". Use brass from your local home store to make a tee and adapt as needed.
I hate it when people mention it but this has been covered in great depth before (in case you need more background info).
Your gauges should come with several adapters in the kit. Mine did. You may have to combine 2 to get the right size, but I have never had to go out and buy additional fittings to make it work.
Hissin:
I see what you're saying, but the threaded port on the water neck is closer to the intake than the hose, so if the Tstat stuck closed; would I still get the readings of the coolant in the block side still just like the stock sender?
Dosent coolant flow into the block from the lower hose, then up and out the water neck into the radiator through the top hose or do I have that backwards?
Your gauges should come with several adapters in the kit. Mine did. You may have to combine 2 to get the right size, but I have never had to go out and buy additional fittings to make it work.
Hissin:
I see what you're saying, but the threaded port on the water neck is closer to the intake than the hose, so if the Tstat stuck closed; would I still get the readings of the coolant in the block side still just like the stock sender?
Dosent coolant flow into the block from the lower hose, then up and out the water neck into the radiator through the top hose or do I have that backwards?
I think I like your understanding of the flow dynamic but you lost me. If the stat stuck closed (on the radiator side of the stat), the sending unit in that stat housing would not reflect the increasingly hot engine temps (due to its isolation from the engine coolant via the t-stat).
Again, that's how I'm seeing it but I might not be understanding your set-up.
I think I like your understanding of the flow dynamic but you lost me. If the stat stuck closed (on the radiator side of the stat), the sending unit in that stat housing would not reflect the increasingly hot engine temps (due to its isolation from the engine coolant via the t-stat).
Again, that's how I'm seeing it but I might not be understanding your set-up.
In a brain fart, I mentally pictured the T-stat incorrectly. It rest between the water neck and lower intake and my sensor would indeed be on the radiator side of the t-stat. My mistake.