How do I keep factory oil pres and water temp guages when adding autometers...?

Not sure about the oil press, but there are enough holes in the intake to run additional sending units and leave the stock one where it is.

For the OP: The stock hole is 1/4" NPT. Your aftermarket gauge is likely 1/8" NPT. So get a brass tee from the hardware store, along with the appropriate adapters, and plumb both senders into the Tee.
Your observation is correct - gauges are sender specific. No mixing and matching; no using one sender for two gauges.

For water temp, personally I would put the new gauge's sender in the stock (most accurate) location. Then remove the brass plug in the rear of the lower intake (driver side) and put the stocker there. Or get a tapped waterneck from the parts house (10 bucks) and put the stocker there. This latter location is inaccurate if the t-stat sticks but you're probably not going to look at the stock temp gauge much anyhow (the real point is to not have a dead gauge).

Dont try to use a Tee housing two temperature senders (in case this sounds like an easy way to do things).

Good luck.

MH88'Notch said:

Hi, the stock hole for the oil pressure sender...is that the hole in the block, or the extender? (Or are they both 1/4" NPT)

Thanks

Click to expand...

The extender is 1/4". IIRC, the boss in the block itself is also 1/4" though.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender: Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.