how do i relocate the battery???
- Thread starter noslow5_0
- Start date
blown1989saleen
Founding Member
you can a search on google and come up several places to order from, or go to a welding supply store as i did. you can get the necassary lug end from NAPA.noslow5_0 said:
Scott
stangbear427
Active Member
Or you can get it from any better car audio store- but it will be pricy if great quality. Or, the cheapest way is usually in a relocation kit.
Legendary
Founding Member
Can anyone show a pic of the welding cable going under the car. I guess you just run it wherever you can away from things it should be exhaust etc?? Maybe put something around it that you could screw into underneath that would hold it secure. It seems like thick cable to me but if thats the best I will try that.
stangbear427
Active Member
Ran my 1 gauge under the carpet, wouldn't trust it outside the car myself. No problems. I've heard of guys running it through their sub frame connectors, but I couldn't have because they had end caps welded on.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Legendary - it is for just in case - but I think it's an important one. You'd be amazed the funky drivability issues that can be caused by a bad/dirty ground on the ecu.
An alternative I used on mine for the large cable run - I bought the most expensive ($19.99) deluxe set of 2 gauge jumper cables I could find at Wall Mart. 25' long - I cut the clamps off, and stripped the insulation back so I could solder BOTH cables into my hot battery lug. So I've got a double run of 2 gauge for the hot cable. Because the cables were more expensive (relatively) they are very flexible. They're bonded together in the insulation so routing them was easy, and I covered them in the factory style plastic corrugated cable covers to provide further insulation. Any time I was close to exhaust or moving engine parts, I sleeved the whole thing in heater hose. It's been installed for 2 years and working perfectly. No starting, charging issues at all. As I mentioned before, I did have an inductance issue, but I solved that with a separate hot wire to the stereo. Just another lower cost, but quality approach.
An alternative I used on mine for the large cable run - I bought the most expensive ($19.99) deluxe set of 2 gauge jumper cables I could find at Wall Mart. 25' long - I cut the clamps off, and stripped the insulation back so I could solder BOTH cables into my hot battery lug. So I've got a double run of 2 gauge for the hot cable. Because the cables were more expensive (relatively) they are very flexible. They're bonded together in the insulation so routing them was easy, and I covered them in the factory style plastic corrugated cable covers to provide further insulation. Any time I was close to exhaust or moving engine parts, I sleeved the whole thing in heater hose. It's been installed for 2 years and working perfectly. No starting, charging issues at all. As I mentioned before, I did have an inductance issue, but I solved that with a separate hot wire to the stereo. Just another lower cost, but quality approach.
blown1989saleen
Founding Member
yep, thats the way mine is wired. my alternator charges good and the car starts good as wellKid wita 5oh said:
Scott
Legendary
Founding Member
Michael Yount said:
And this is grounded near where the battery used to be right? The ground with two black wires coming out of it?
djk8705
New Member
Kid Wita 5oh- Whats that wire coming from the block? to the sway bar to the firewall for?
-Thanks
-Thanks
blown1989saleen
Founding Member
this is the setup i use, so i guess i can answerdjk8705 said:
the 2ga is the engine ground and the 10ga is the ground for the ECU. Pro-m recommends a 10ga wire ran from the battery NEG- up to the original ECU ground.Scott
ram360
Founding Member
would a bad ground or insufficient gauge positive lead wire make the car not start when it is warm. This is the problem I am having. Fires right up w/o hesitation when it's cool and won't start at all when the engine is at operating temp. I was thinking it was starter heat soak but I have a heatshield and the problem still persists. I was wondering if this was a possability.
Car RamRod
Banned
wow....old thread.
Anyway, Ive got over a mile of welding leads (its rediculous how much ive got).
So can you guys just give an update of how the welding lead setups are holding up?
Thanks alot
Anyway, Ive got over a mile of welding leads (its rediculous how much ive got).
So can you guys just give an update of how the welding lead setups are holding up?
Thanks alot
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