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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

How do i remove my Dash and door panels?

  • Thread starter Thread starter PepsiFreak107
  • Start date Start date Apr 3, 2004

PepsiFreak107

New Member
Aug 27, 2003
134
0
0
Phoenix, Arizona
Apr 3, 2004
#1
  • Apr 3, 2004
  • #1
i got the screws off the top but it won;t come loose, and theres no screws on the door panels so i have no i dea how i'm gona get those off without ruining them?

also why are there so many different door panels styles..i've seen ones with horses, some without, some with like almost tiles and others with a chrome triangle like trim in the middle around the arm rests? what was ford thinking?
 
T

THE COBRAMAN

pig 'rassler
Founding Member
Mar 11, 1999
1,974
0
36
Oklahoma
Apr 3, 2004
#2
  • Apr 3, 2004
  • #2
Dash pad:

There are 4 screws in the defrost slot (2 on each side) and 5 or 6 under the front edge that go up thru the dash shell into the pad. After these are removed, the pad should lift off.

Door panels:

If they have the long armrest, there are 2 3/8" head screws in the large holes. Remove them. If you have the short armrests, there are the same 2 bolts plus a screw at the end that is at the top. It is accessed by pulling the metal trim away from the panel. Remove the window crank and door release handle. Remove the lock rod knob. Remove the remote mirror ring (it screws off) if so equipped. The next part is a little trickier, and the death of many a door panel. Go and buy a door panel clip removal tool. There are several different styles, some are a U-groove, some are a V groove. In a pinch, a small nail bar (Stanley makes one) can be used, but the right tool is better. Using a screwdriver is guaranteed to tear the panel, especially if it's never been off before. You'll insert the tool between the door panel and the door itself about an inch. Start at one corner, and slide it carefully along until it hits a clip. You'll want to get the clip in the fork of the tool, then gently lever the panel by rocking the handle towards the door. There are clips about every 4 inches along the bottom of the panel, and I think 4 on each front and rear edge. Speaker grilles can remain on the panel if they are originals. After all the clips are loose, you'll need to push out slightly at the top edge of the panel (next to the glass) and lift up to clear the flange at the top of the door.

Sounds worse than it really is.

Door panel styles:

The "racetrack" (mylar tape "triangle" panel is the standard door panel, and uses the short armrest. Should have ponies.

The deluxe panel up to '78 had a stainless molding near the bottom with carpet at the bottom (except white panels), and used the long armrest. Some had courtesy lamps, some did not.

The '78 Deluxe panel is the one with the rectangles on it.

Most deluxe panels had woodgrain matching the dash trim above the armrest prior to '78. Cobra IIs had "brushed" aluminum above the armrest. Cobra IIs in '77 could have either the "COBRA II" nameplate or the running ponies on the aluminum insert. Unlike '76 and '77, the '78 Cobra II got the standard "cheapo" panels as standard equipment.

Then there's the whole gold/red trimmed deluxe '74 panels issue.

You have to remember, the foundation of all Mustangs WAS that you could build the car your way. Not like today's "you have to take all this if you want that" policy.
 

PepsiFreak107

New Member
Aug 27, 2003
134
0
0
Phoenix, Arizona
Apr 3, 2004
#3
  • Apr 3, 2004
  • #3
wow..sounds complicated, but i'll try it...lol
 
9

90lx

Founding Member
Mar 13, 1999
91
0
0
Apr 4, 2004
#4
  • Apr 4, 2004
  • #4
THE COBRAMAN said:
Unlike '76 and '77, the '78 Cobra II got the standard "cheapo" panels as standard equipment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that bit of info. I've always wondered why my 1978 (Built in late 77 but with 78 tri-stripes, titled as 78) Cobra had standard door panels instead of the brushed aluminum inserts.
 
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