how do u drop a oil pan on a fox

Easier with the motor out. But if you wanna do it with the motor in you have to take the bolts out of the motor mounts, unbolt the driveshaft, possibly remove some exhaust parts and jack the motor up to make some room. I may have left a few things out, but that should get you started.

ahhh the multi colored stang....lol

You either have to:
1. pull the motor completely
2. drop the k-member from below and use a cherry picker to support the motor
3. lift the motor just enough to get the pan out from underneath the k-member.

pick one.

anyone else?

sirsureshot39 said:

ahhh the multi colored stang....lol

You either have to:
1. pull the motor completely
2. drop the k-member from below and use a cherry picker to support the motor
3. lift the motor just enough to get the pan out from underneath the k-member.

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Yeah, the cherry picker isn't really optional for this one. I was referring to option 3 in my reply though. Used to have that multi-colored thing a while back though, only I had grey, red, white and black

GreenMustangGt said:

this is for a fox car you know, the explorer motor dont seize no oil pans, cause its badass

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Yea of course we know that, I know all about your useless posts as well, i frequent the sn95 forum.... Good luck

easy

easier than a SN95 i swear it.

GreenMustangGt said:

this is for a fox car you know, the explorer motor dont seize no oil pans, cause its badass

Click to expand...

Yea I never heard of a motor seizing an oil pan...

haha

You have to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor as far as possible. Your NOT gonna be able to get the oil pan out, your gonna have to fish the oil pump out and the new one back in.... I did it this way in my car (w/ my longtubes still attatched) and it took me like 4 or 5 hours.... Maybe longer, It was the worst thing I had ever done on a stang in my life!! Good luck

Been there, done that - You can do it in the car. Be sure to take heed of the other posts, as they may have included something that I missed. Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan & fan shroud. You may also have to disconnect the steering shaft and drop the steering rack. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. You will need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance. The trans mount will have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.

I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine.

Scrape the pan mating surfaces clean as possible - old gasket stuck to the surfaces are a source of leaks. Get a high volume/heavy duty pump, and a replacement HD pump shaft. FMS makes one, and ARP does too. When you install the pump, the funny looking washer thingy goes on the part of the shaft that fits into the hex socket in the distributor shaft. It keeps the shaft in place when you remove the distributor, which you will have to do to prime the pump. Forget to put it on, and the pump shaft can come loose and fall down in the bottom of the oil pan.

There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.

Fill with oil, replace the filter. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on to enable the gages, but DON'T crank the car. Remove the distributor and use a 1/4" hex socket to turn the pump counterclockwise (same direction as distributor rotation) until you see oil pressure (an external gage is a great help long about now) and keep turning for about 30 sec after you see the pressure come up. A reversible drill is the best tool to use to turn the 1/4" socket. The pressure should come up to about 50-80psi with cold oil. Once you see good pressure, check for obvious leaks, and then and only then, lower everything back into place and bolt down the mounts and anything else you had to take loose. Re-install the distributor and set the timing with the engine running using a timing light (don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT plug and reconnect it when finished) 12-14 degrees BDC is good. Start up and check for leaks, let it warm up and look again for leaks. It took me 2 days plus, but I am old and slow, maybe your granny is faster.

The only thing I can add is that if indeed your granny is faster, get her to help.

I also have to do the same thing this weekend so I feel your pain. I am just going to remove the engine, that way I can clean it up as well. It's seems like the same amount of work either way.

5ive.oh - I think that's a wise choice. Any way you go the job is a big one - and removing the motor at least assures that you can do a quality job on the replacement. And while it's out - anything else that needs fixing/replacing is pretty easy to get to.

I'm doing my oil pan gasket too - I plan on pulling the engine - I think my lower intake is leaking oil down the back of the engine as well. I figure since I am pulling off all this stuff, now is a good time for an H/C/I swap, and new headers. It is somewhat of a daunting task since this is my first time pulling an engine. I plan on taking my time and videotaping each step as I go so when I put all back together if I get stuck, and can see what it was supposed to look like

Howard

I guess none of you guys caught on to this guy yet.....everyone of his threads are a joke and complete waste of webspace...keep that in mind next time u see his multicolored stang in his avatar..

that's a good idea

that would explain the lack of response

Hey 420 posts

it took my friend and I a whole day to it to his car. We also broke the head of a bolt off so that took some time fixing.

I sold one of my cars to a friend and a week later the oil pump shaft broke. I'm doing a pump, shaft, and pan gasket this weekend too. Lucky for me I get to use a buddy's shop and have a lift. Is it really an all day job? I'm hoping 3-4 hours. I've never done one out of the car before but I heard that all you need to do is unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine up a bit....nothing about removing the midpipe and drive shaft.....I'm way too lazy for that much work.

You can probably get away without the midpipe removal, but if your gonna llift the motor up I would remove the driveshaft just in case.