How do you remove a broken bolt out of manifold?

MustangLX-5.0

Founding Member
Dec 2, 2000
856
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Lehigh Acres Fla.
Bs again.This is relating to my 3.8.But you know why I'm posting this here...

After blowing out the small bypass heater hose,I decided to pull the t-stat.The left bolt that holds the t-stat housing broke more than halfway in.How the f*** do I fix this ****? ****in phords. damn it.

There's not enough bolt sticking out to grab it with vice grips.Am I going to have to tap an die this thing? How do you use a tap and die set?

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This just happened to me on my plenum while taking out the IAC.

Use a bolt extractor bit to creep it out. All you do is drill a hole in the center of the bolt and use the extractor bit to slowly twist it out. Just soak it in PB blaster first.

The bits are usually like two bucks at autozone, and other than that you need a good drill and some drill bits ad a little patience lol
 
Thanks.That's all I really needed to know.Now hopefully the screw piece comes out.It's rusted and in an aluminum manifold.Not good.

Not as bad as you think, Chemically speaking the two will have a hard time creating a true molecular bond. SO..

I've had this happen before on a plenum. Plenty of times on steel to steel/iron but i have a TON of metalworking tools and torches and some oldschool tricks on steel

I took a drill bit about 1/4 the size of the broken, drilled it in almost all the way, then took one about 1/2 the size of the broken and start really slow with heavy pressure on the drill and it managed to shift and break free, then used an extraction bit to back it out. Did i mention it was soaked in PB Blaster?
 
Well its sprayed with PB.Just going to start working on that tomarrow. Bought 2 different extractor sets. Ones a set of 5 different sized reverse threaded bits and the other is a set of 5 bits that are square edged.One side is very small and gets larger going towards the other end.The guy at the parts store said he used the revese thread type and had it break off inside the broken screw,so I bought both.Will see tomarrow. Thanks again
 
Stupid heater pipe that goes into the water pump is not letting me get the drill bit in.Tried to pull the pipe out but it's stuck in the pump.What more...yay

Now I'm using a heat gun trying to heat things up.Taking forever.This 40 degree weather isn't helping.
 
Stupid heater pipe that goes into the water pump is not letting me get the drill bit in.Tried to pull the pipe out but it's stuck in the pump.What more...yay

Now I'm using a heat gun trying to heat things up.Taking forever.This 40 degree weather isn't helping.

i've done a 3.8 water pump before, Remind me, is it the metal tube that goes into the pump on the passenger side/top?
 
HOLY **** MOTHER ****ER!! I GOT IT! My luck paid off today.The stubble of a piece that was sticking out,i decided to take another crack at it with the vice grips.I took the heat gun on high setting and with the grips attached heated the pliers and area around the intake up.PB'd it..very carefully tried to move the pliers untill it just BARELY started to move.I didn't want to shred what little was sticking out.So over constant re-heating..making the pliers burning hot acted like a heat sink into the busted screw.Over 2 1/2 hours of this...of getting the screw piece to turn a tad at a time..removing pliers and regripping lower again..then reheating and pb'ing.Finally get it out a few turns and it loosens up to where I could grab with needle nose..then with finger.

Yeah..sorry for the long ass details.i'm just HAPPY I actually go it out.I didn't want to have to remove the intake plenum AND the water pump.I installed pump 8 years ago.And yeah..that was the exact pipe I was talking about.No need to now.LOTS of damn patience this was.

Sorry if it seemed like I wasted some of your time here.Just in a rut and over aggravated.Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.SN is the best.

BM