how does this work air adjuster

A few things about that!


It will only SCALE the MAF output. So, if someone foolishly used an adj FP or injectors without a chip/MAF, then that POS will help SCALE DOWN the MAF output so that the EEC **MAY** be able to get into closed loop. But, the load calculation will be OFF so the the engine will still likely run like cr*p.



Ozrunner: HOW IN THE WORLD did that POS ADJUST YOUR A/F ratio????

If you even think that there was a possibility of that happening, then do not touch your Tweecer! Please, read Probst before you blow up your engine!! It's your engine, so do what you want. I'm just trying to help you avoid have an engine with its guts puked on the ground.

The ONLY way that POS can adjust the A/F is if the MAF is so screwed up (cough, cough C&L) that the EEC is running in open loop and running PIG RICH because it's in FMEM.

As for "digital controlled", I bet that it's a POS low cost design (2 layer PC board ) that does not come close to meeting proper engineering design methodology. As for "DIGITAL", that would mean that they use an A/D and and DAC. So, what's the resolution, the speed, the S&N, the bandwidth, the delay, the response curve, the ACCURACY, the NOISE, and I could go on and on. I'd bet that they use a slow POS PIC or similar low-end cheap *ss MicroController.

Basically, they need fast *12*bit+ A/D & DACs with at most 2 bits of noise and an accurate voltage reference. And, a low-noise board design. If they don't have that, it's a JOKE! Basic Electrical Engineering. Heck, even many high-school students that take electronics know basic electronic design rules like that.

BTW: Even *today*, there aren't many people out there that have done a successful design with the specs that I mentioned. I know, as a consultant, I often go in to fix designs that are noisy even on 10-bit systems.

Also, I've had my my own custom EEC data logger for a long time. Getting 12-bit accuracy in the POS auto environment is not easy. Also, *intelligent* filtering (IIR, FIR) is STRONGLY desired over the POS low pass filters.

Of course, my designs HAVE to work (Space) and lives often depend on them working (AeroSpace). And, I taught this stuff for many years.


IF someone want to scale the output of their MAF and they had a Tweecer to do a custom MAF curve, then that type of MAF scaler "may" help. But, *I* wouldn't trust it!

Also:
Digital TPS Monitor - Easy TPS Adjustment!!

- The TPS sensor adjustment is a critical settings on Ford engines. You DID adjust your TPS to 0.98 volts with Key-ON-Engine-OFF, didn't you?? Well, our plug-in DIGITAL Monitor makes adjusting your TPS a breeze!! No more piercing wires!! Now includes both 3-pin round and 3-blade oval TPS connectors. Fits nearly all Ford TPS sensors, from 1986-95, except newer 3-pin oval 4.6L engines. (Newer 4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L modular engines estimated availability date - late 2006)

WTF!!!
Read:
My TPS FAQ,
The GFUB documentation
Probst,
the EEC code,
etc!


Adjusting the TPS to 0.98 volts is a stupid ricer MOD and even suggesting that shows ZERO understanding of Electrical Engineer!! The EEC 5V and the TPS pot do NOT allow an accurate REPEATABLE 0.01V resolution! Then, there are the MECH tolerances, the Mechanical tolerances between the TPS and the throttle tab, etc!

So, suggesting adjusting the TPS to 0.98 shows ZERO understanding of Electrical or Mechanical Engineering!

And, as I've said for OVER 10 years, the EEC-IV zeros out the TPS at startup!

Again, read:
My TPS FAQ,
The GFUB documentation
Probst,
the EEC code,
etc!

Note: http://www.mass-air.com/
Does sell some good products.
But, they also sell SNAKE OIL!

Do what you want.
Again, consider the source!

stang&2Birds said:

...............Ozrunner: HOW IN THE WORLD did that POS ADJUST YOUR A/F ratio????

Click to expand...

Mate, FIIK but I assume the altered MAF voltage tricks the ecu to either richen or lean etc, much the same as what I gather a 24lb recalibrated Pro M maf electronics does. But thats what definately shows on the a/f guage when your turn the adjusting dial either way. As I mentioned I only brought it to ascertain if it would help mpg on long cruises.

If you even think that there was a possibility of that happening, then do not touch your Tweecer! Please, read Probst before you blow up your engine!! It's your engine, so do what you want. I'm just trying to help you avoid have an engine with its guts puked on the ground. .......

Click to expand...

Thanks mate. I've had Probst's book for years and it is a great book . But there's no concern with my engine as I've been running the adjuster for well over a year and using it when cruising depending on what speed I pick up 50-80klm a tank (110liters) so I'm way more than happy.

Yep, as far as the Tweecer goes its over my head. I figured rather than bust a gut trying to learn it, I have a Tweecer guru doing it for me as once it's set I really won't have any need to do readjustments. But if so, he can do it, I'm currently using my old ecu with a 24lb Pro M Maf electrics on a 73mm Ford MAF.

TPS Adjuster.

Again I don't know about you guys but I have only 2 hands and it was an absolute PITA trying to hold volt meter probes into wires while operating the throttle and this gizmo looked like it would make the whole process must easier and it does. Truly a great item and saves heaps of time.

Yep, again I've read all those numerous links about adjusting versus adapting etc and to be honest over here our dictionary says adapting means adjusting .

I understand the various 0.98v arguments and don't have any problems with that. But I'm always mucking about with different throttle bodies etc etc and I've found many TPS's for some reason didn't automatically fall within the voltage range when fitted and a minor hole mod was needed.

Therefore, this gizmo makes it super fast to double check and honestly it was a great investment. The Ford TPS that I recently fitted to my current accufab was out of this range. Its a great tool to adjust it into range rather than loose your cool trying to hold volt meter probes.


LtDavis

interesting, did you have to cut and splice all the wires to run it all the way to the cabin?

I cut the MAF wires at the ECU behind the kickpanel and fitted a male generic plug to them with a female plug and harness going to the adjuster. On the other cut wires going to the actual MAF I fitted a female generic plug with a male generic plug and harness now going to the MAF.

Idea was if it did cause any issues then it was easy to unplug it and reconnect up the MAF direct to the ECU again.

Like I said I don't know for sure whether it would do all what they say. If you were looking at it for performance adjustments considering you would HAVE to also fit a wideband a/f setup on top of the adjusters cost, given the cost comparison I think it would make much better sense to get a Tweecer as it gives way more scope. But as far as for my purpose it works a treat.

As an offshoot my engine is no slouch and its in a 4Runner, having AFR 185's, XE274HR cam etc etc and my own custom injection so correct a/f ratios are essential. But at this very moment Jay Allen is doing me a custom cam as I'm going to make the bottom section a 347 hence why I recently brought the Tweecer.