How hard is it to R&R a heater core?

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
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Pensacola FL
I was wondering about this the other day looking at my disconnected heater lines at the firewall.
I brought up the question in another thread here about cold weather, but I don't really want to hijack someone else's thread...

Anyway, I never asked the PO why the heat was not hooked up, but can only assume it is because there was a problem. I live in Florida, and the car is a "rarely driver", not daily driver, so it's not a big deal, but I would rather the heat be hooked up just to make the car "right", so to speak.

It is an 87 GT with A/C and T5, if any of this affects the repair of the heater core... ????
The radio is out of the dash right now, if that helps... ????
 
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Replacing the heater core is a full day long job. You get to drop the steering column and then remove the dash (after removing the console). Eventually you get to actually see the heater core.... It's not hard, but you have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it, and then put it all back. I've done it twice, and it took the better part of a day both times.
 
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Not hard at all. Like reldla says though... It's a long process and requires patience.

Tag any single wires that you disconnect so that you're sure to see them and reattach them during installation (ask me why :D ).

If you're running an aluminum radiator, use a QUALITY aluminum heater core or OEM Ford replacement. Avoid part store replacements. If you're using a copper radiator, use a Ford OEM replacement only. They cost more but the OEM piece lasts what... 20+ years? :O_o:
 
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ive done it 4 times its not hard as noted just a pain. when i install a new one now I put a small block in b/t the two pipes and a zip tie to keep the hose's from from flexing them in the opposite direction. None of my setups have ever failed that I know of.
 
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Dont forget to put a reducer in the feed hose of the heater core. I did some reading about failed ones and it seems that the reason they fail is too much pressure which causes the core to leak. I got the reducer from late model restoration along with an OEM heater core. I read stories of guys putting in an aftermarket core and half way thru the summer they start leaking again. This is a job i only wanted to do once.
 
My friend did it last night in an hour and a half. Cluster still in the car and all.. Removed center console. Dropped the coloumn, Pulled dash back, Heater box back. Changed core. That was it. Car was already drained of fluids for an intake swap though
 
Dont forget to put a reducer in the feed hose of the heater core. I did some reading about failed ones and it seems that the reason they fail is too much pressure which causes the core to leak. I got the reducer from late model restoration along with an OEM heater core. I read stories of guys putting in an aftermarket core and half way thru the summer they start leaking again. This is a job i only wanted to do once.
Pressure is not lessened by restricting flow.
So if it helps, it would have to do with reduction in flow.
???

If I am nervous about a part in my cooling system, I usually drop pressure with a lower rated rad cap. I am not sure, but I think our cars came with 16# caps. I run a 13# on older cars to be safe.
 
Replacing the heater core is a full day long job. You get to drop the steering column and then remove the dash (after removing the console). Eventually you get to actually see the heater core.... It's not hard, but you have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it, and then put it all back. I've done it twice, and it took the better part of a day both times.

All weekend with beer.