How low is too low? Oil Pressure that is...

fawcett

Member
Sep 10, 2003
380
0
16
Cohasset, Ma
Yeah this happens to me every friggin time. Something breaks.
I just got her tuned, exhaust leak fixed, new Nitto Tires, Sparco Torino 2 seats/belts/brackets, new T/A Diff. Cover, Changed the oil (twice!)

I've got a serious problem. My Stock Oil Gauge is reading fairly low and I am scared. The needle is on the N in Normal (mostly on the furthest point to the left).

So I changed the oil and filter hoping that old oil was the problem. At first, I did four quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 and one quart of Lucas Synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter. The pressure didnt change, it remained as stated above. That was on last sunday night.

So I havn't used my car since that night in hopes of something fixing itself. Today I did another oil change. The main reason was because I read about Bobistheoilguy.com's experiment on the Lucas crap. So I went with a straight 50weight-Valvoline synthetic. I also installed a battery hold down kit so that I would pass tech inspection at this weekends FFW.

No luck, pressure still seems low. The needle is on the N.
WTF do I do?
Please help me is there anything I can do to make sure my gauge isnt f-ing with me. I need to do something ASAP because IF I am going to FFW I need to make sure I dont kill my motor. I was really hoping for 12's.

Please Help! The thicker oil didnt help.
Am I doomed to have to have my pump replaced?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


How would I find out the actual pressure? What gauge do I need, where can I buy it and where/how do I hook it up?
I want to race this weekend more than anything, I need to move fast because the gates open at like 7am tomorrow and its an hour drive from my house.
 
I agree. Install a real oil pressure gauge (if a cheap one, mechanical is more likely to be accurate).

The stock sender is above the oil filter. It has 1/4" NPT threads so make sure your new gauge has an adapter (most aftermarket gauges are 1/8" NPT).

I'd use copper or braided line if you keep the gauge. For this thrash, the supplied nylon line should work fine if you dont kink it.

Good luck.
 
Ive searched past threads (with help from urban).
Here is the thread I plan on using: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=626677&highlight=autometer+oil

CP7556 "Oil Pressu" $1.25 (it was on clearance ,real price $4.99) and this is Oil pressure kit , i just use T , that 2" male 1/8 pipe was too long (power steering / A/C bracket was too close)
321132 "Brass Adap" $1.99
321002 "Brass Fema" $1.99
321204 "Pipe Ftng" $1.29
All those 4 parts are bought in AutoZone

You will have to use that 1/8 to 1/4 adapter that comes with AutoMeter gauge because hole on block is 1/4


So I get those three brass parts from AZ, teflon the threads, install them with the proper socket that I have to buy (also mentioned in the thread).

Then what do I do?
How is the gauge connected to the parts mentioned above?

Aside from that, these things seem fairly straightforward this far for me except any electrical things that maybe needed. Things that are volt/wire related scare me. I dont know what wires mean what, or how to take volt readings, or anything that may seem simple to others on this site.

Also, after those three parts go in how do I cap everything off (if I need to) I have no where to mount a gauge so I would pretty much do all of this work just to get a reading then cap it off until I get an AutoMeter gauge that would look more "proper" inside mounted somewhere appropriate. I dont have any gauge pod clusters yet.

God I suck when it comes to cars,
thanks for everyone's help thus far.
Keep feeding me info so that I can race and represent you boys
 
For right now, you're going to hook up a cheapie for 2 minutes of testing, right?

Is it a mechanical or electric gauge? If mechanical, you wont need to hook up any wires.

I guess I'm kinda lost since I dont know what the part #'s correspond to.

Either way, for quick testing it will be easy to hook the guage up if it's under the hood because you can use battery power and ground.

Good luck.
 
I really dont know what Im getting parts wise because the store is closed.
Mechanical would be easiest right-then no electricy is needed? Just a hose from these parts to the gauge?
Ive tried to link his pic and parts to this reply but again I suck and cant do it.
here is the link: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=626677&highlight=autometer+oil

Pics of what I guess I'm talking about are at the top and bottom.
Let me know if this will work because I dont know what Im doing and Im hoping that I can get this stuff, install it, get a reading, cap it off and race if things look ok.
Its going to be some scramble to do all of this and get to NH on time.
 
No the link worked. I simply dont know what the part numbers equate to in terms of actual fittings (I broke it down visually after someone asked at the bottom of page 1).

If Ernan used a Tee fitting, you wont need that to simply connect this gauge. If you get a mechanical gauge, I dont think you'll need to buy any extra fittings (as long as the mech gauge comes with a male 1/4" NPT x 1/8" fitting).

If you go with an elec gauge, you *might* need an extension to space the sending unit away from the motor. Something along the lines of a 2" extension would likely work. Then you might need an adapter since most extensions are double males (and you need the sender side to be able to receive the sending unit).

Real basic stuff. If you have a bud whose done a gauge before, take him with you. It should take about 5 minutes to install.

One other thing: some guys struggle with removing the old OP gauge's sender (the original one for the stock gauge). I didnt have that issue but it might crop up.

You really can almost use a small crescent wrench to tighten all the fittings since you dont tighten them too much (it sounds like you're hurting for tools, and that can make it easier).

Good luck.
 
First off before you go buy a oil pressure guage, replace the oil sender unit. Its right next to the oil filter on the block, and you need a special socket to remove it.

My stock guage was always low and didnt move. Replaced the sender unit for $10 and it worked how it was supposed to.
 
Update: I woke up this morning and said f-it, Im going racing. I made it up there and babied it, ran street ford with an engine friendly 14.0 dial in. I went 4 rounds then got beat. The problem started when I tried to do a burn out-the car didnt like it and the tires didnt break loose. I tried again but just smoked the clutch. All in all, it was worth it and I didnt blow the motor up!

On the other hand my T/A cover is leaking for the 4th f-ing time. I talked to one of their sales reps today and he said that I shouldnt have used the gasket SUPPLIED with their kit....
WTF?
If I dont get it right this time Im just going to call Curry and get a 9in and sell my gears&cover.

Thanks for all of your help guys, I am getting a full set of gauges so that I dont have to deal with this mickey mouse factory dummy gauges.
Ring ring
"Thank you for calling Autometer how may we rape your checking account?"
-fawcett
 
Just 275 Nitto 555's I dono what happened. I tried twice, looked over at the girl with the hose-haha we both shrugged our shoulders then I staged and lost.
I'll go further next year, for now Im just happy I made it home.
Later on today (after the power block repeats) I am going to do the rear end crap again.

How long does it take Black RTV to set?
If you use a T/A diff cover dont use the SUPPLIED gasket! It will leak.
-fawcett