Sorry about the meter, but glad we could help so far. I have a analog clamshell meter my now deceased RCA mentor reccomended, and s Fluke HFT copy. The digital HFT coupon special gets the most use in case in case I drop it. The new lead pack probably cost as much as the meter. did. If you are looking to buy a meter localky, testing your alternators should be done happily at the store. That should eliminate a suspected diode issue.Hey Mike, thanks or making me think a little more in depth. As I just told 7991LXnSHO, after you, him, and Wayne mentioned the inconsistencies, I checked the meter yet again. It measured voltage and ohms just fine, but I could not get it to measure amperage, at least not consistently. I double checked the fuse, and the battery, but neither seemed to be the problem, so I took the back off of the meter, and discovered a burnt trace, so obviously, it was working only when it felt like it. I ill purchase a new meter tomorrow, and hopefully get to the bottom of this electrical system.
LOL...I normally do not mind chasing the electrical, but this car has thrown me for a loopWhile we have a break, may i say that i HATE electrical stuff!
Good morning, manic,Your meter is okay if it is reading OL
Simply means it is out of range or the leads are reversed or you are using the wrong scale.
So if you are checking resistance for instance and the battery is hooked up
And there is some voltage in the circuit you are testing it will read OL for a while before burning up your meter
You need to check and recheck what you are doing and what scale you are using for your particular test
A pro like me if you are chasing a draw would not be too concerned about the actual number of milliamps draw
Rather I would concentrate on the the draw itself then when you fix that your trouble is over
Might give the guy a number just to joke about later
You likely are still going crazy.LOL...I normally do not mind chasing the electrical, but this car has thrown me for a loopwhich is why I started to ask questions in the first place. Seeing that the multimeter had a burnt trace might be a saving grace....I thought I was going crazy!
That's not a bad suggestion, but I think I will buy new. I don't need to inherit anyone else's problems, I have enough of my own!I have 3 The best ones are given to you
Love my expensive Fluke meter but
Started with a jippo 100 dollar one in the eighties
Now you can get a good one for 20 bucks
Hit the pawn shops
Take a flashlight battery with you and see if one works
While we have a break, may i say that i HATE electrical stuff!
I like that,undercar specialist
Thank you for your input! In all honesty, it is coming down to either this unit, or the Klein. I am not (obviously) pro electrical everything, but I think either of these would be a decent choice.I’d not object to having this.Complete Review of the INNOVA 3340 Multimeter
An excellent tool for the auto technician, this popular multimeter is loaded with functionality, including alternator, RMS and batter check ranges.testmeterpro.com
Display and Interface
The LCD display is a standard 3 3/4 digit (max 3999 displayed). It is clear and concise and shows all the symbols, such as low battery, AC/DC volts, current, ohms, degrees, dwell angle, temperature units, etc. When a reading goes over range, it will display ‘OL’, aside from DC amps.
Protection
… The milliamp input circuit is protected by a 500mA fuse, though the DC current input is un-fused. While you can test to 15A, the meter must be allowed to rest for 15 minutes or more for each 15-second test duration.
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