how many rpms
- Thread starter 50foxbody
- Start date
Short answer.....your cam and heads will probably sign (power wise) off before your crank does (durability wise).
Ask a vague question, get a vague answer.
DocG
5th graders > me. They're not bant
If you have a forged crank....you no longer have a stock bottom end.
This is true.
DocG
5th graders > me. They're not bant
Can't believe you missed that.....WTF?
Seriously tho....if you want a real answer....you gotta post up a lot more specs and details.
I say rev her to 15k. I once knew a guy with a Honda S2000 that would cruise at like 8k on the highway cuz it sounded coold.
There's no sense reving that combo past 5500 because it'll run out of breath by then or even a bit before then. You don't have enough heads or intake or cam power to justify it.
Lets just say I wouldn't want to spin it past 6,500RPM on too many occasions. As 85_SS_302_Coupe stated, there's no reason to spin it past 5,500RPM with your current set up. My advice to you would be to install an ignition box with a rev limiter if you're prone to blowing shifts.
Even if the bottom end can handle 8k RPM, your peak power is probably nowhere near that. I can physically rev mine to 7500 but it drops off around 6300 so why put the stress on my engine?
white 89 GT
Member
In mho I can`t see a forged crank in a stock block 302 at all. Now if your using a aftermarket block or 351w then yes spring for the forged internals.
Not unless you pan on forging the rods and pistons as well. Truth be told, unless you plan on seeing a lot of RPM, the stock nodular iron crank will hold out longer than the stock block will.
Why don't you state your goals with the car so we can asses this further? A steel crank, with stock rods and pistons with even higher end head/intake is a waste of money IMO. Your GT40's don't even come close to flowing enough air to make the kind of power it would take to warrant a forged crank.
Unless you’re planning to rebuild a tired engine and throwing a lot of power into the mix, or adding displacement to the mix with one of the popular stroker kits on the market, I’d leave the stock crank right where it is.
QUICK91LX
Founding Member
Considering a 5.0 can reliably handle 400+ hp without ever touching the bottom end, as seen in some H/C/I + blower applications, there is no sense in replacing a crank by itself. Never heard of someone listing a forged crank in their mod list unless it was a stroker.
Well, considering the camshaft makes no contact what so ever with the pushrods, I would say your worry is unfounded.
Don't take this the wrong way, but you seem to really be a novice with regards to the 5.0L OHV. My advice to you would be to state your goals and intentions for the car (horsepower figures, drag/street/autocross/emissions, etc) and let someone here with more experience with these engines recommend the needed parts in order for you to get there.
The weakest link in a stock engine are the rod cap bolts. Have them shot peened and polished and use ARP bolts and the bottom end will handle more than the block will.
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
yes, the pushrods will wear down the centrifugal blower nodules and cam balancer eccentric on your camshaft, but only if your cam has a SADI core, check the VIN tag on your blinker fluid reservoir and read us the 9 digit code so we can help you out properly
I dont think gearbanger was trying to insult you , he was just stating the obvious and trying to give you a tip. Everyone was a beginner once, but most are far from experts so dont stress. Why dont you follow his advice, and post your goals, and see if we can help you get there.
Similar threads
