How much alignment typically needed w/Lakewood scattershield?

I have never measured my Lakewood bell housing's run out. Guess after 12 years it was ok from the manufacturer...
But in reality I probably should have taken the time. Got lucky I suppose.

Lakewood or any hydroformed bellhousings almost always need to be adjusted via shims or drilled holes and welded washers. The ford pieces are usualy pretty acurate.

I've recently done a 351 with a Lakewood bellhousing and we used .014 offset dowels to get us to .006 runout for a TKO. If I recall, we simply bolted up the bellhousing with the stock dowels and took runout readings to determine which offset dowels were needed.

Yeah, .005 is a pretty small window but if you grabbed an input shaft on a Tremec trans and tried to wiggle it, it simply doesn't move. Try that with a toploader and you'll find some wiggle. The Ford manual has .014 as runout specs for a toploader. For a Tremec the trans needs to be dead accurate centered in the input bushing or else there's preload on the shaft and shifting can become difficult.

Some folks get lucky and don't have to do any of this stuff with swapping in a Tremec. With my luck, I usually end up spending a week of evenings trying to get it right.

I recently installed a Lakewood on my motor. (out of car) I needed the .007 dowels. I installed mine for a toploader and IIRC my manual called for .009. It took about an hour to do, but I don't think I'd like to do it installed in the car.

1966conv said:

It took about an hour to do, but I don't think I'd like to do it installed in the car.

Click to expand...

Yes, I've done a couple of them in the car and its not pretty.