How are you planning using the car? If you aren't launching at the drags with slicks your 8" should hold up well. Check out Curries sight, they have new pinion support for 8" that helps with one of the weak spots for $99.00. I had talked to currie a few years back and said 31 in a 8" was a waste because the carrier will break befor even quality 28 axles. If you do get 31's they will fit in a 9" of the same width. If you are going to buy all new parts I would do the 9". Not much of any differance in price and the you might get lucky and find some 31's in it already. Soon you will hear about how heavy a 9" is, but it's not as much as you would think. I have been looking at same problem and after alot research I'm looking for a 31 spline 9" as we speak. If you go with 9" you may want up grade drive shaft [ bigger u-joints] to make the swap worth it . Run what you got and shop for the new goodies as bucks allow.
The Currie 8" will hold up just fine. Am seeing these do OK at track events.
If you are going to stay strictly street without too much playing around the standard 8" will be OK.
Most of the Ford rear ends are superior to others.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
If you are going to stay strictly street without too much playing around the standard 8" will be OK.
Most of the Ford rear ends are superior to others.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
There's only one reason for installing a stroker, and that's because you want to romp on it whenever possible. --You've got to, because the temptation is too great not to do it.
The weakest link in the 8-inch rear end is the area around the driving pinion.
The weakest link of a 9-inch (with 28-spline axles) is the axles (generally the left, [short], axle).
An 8-inch will live longer behind an automatic than it will a standard, but a nine inch rear end's life expectancy is much greater no matter what the transmission is. A nine inch with an N-case and 31-spline axles would be virtually bulletproof.
You'll hear all sorts of things about the 9-inch being 75-100 lbs. heavier than the 8-inch and...bla bla bla. That is not true: . In reality, for example, a '65/'66 Mustang 8-inch drum brake rear end weighs 170 lbs. A '57-'59 Ford big car 9-inch drum brake rear end (same width as '65/'66 Mustang 8-inch), weighs 194 lbs. --That's only a weight difference of 24 lbs. (or spread out, that's only 12 lbs. per side heavier).
1. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=1
2. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=2
3. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=5
4. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=9
5. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=16
The weakest link in the 8-inch rear end is the area around the driving pinion.
The weakest link of a 9-inch (with 28-spline axles) is the axles (generally the left, [short], axle).
An 8-inch will live longer behind an automatic than it will a standard, but a nine inch rear end's life expectancy is much greater no matter what the transmission is. A nine inch with an N-case and 31-spline axles would be virtually bulletproof.
You'll hear all sorts of things about the 9-inch being 75-100 lbs. heavier than the 8-inch and...bla bla bla. That is not true: . In reality, for example, a '65/'66 Mustang 8-inch drum brake rear end weighs 170 lbs. A '57-'59 Ford big car 9-inch drum brake rear end (same width as '65/'66 Mustang 8-inch), weighs 194 lbs. --That's only a weight difference of 24 lbs. (or spread out, that's only 12 lbs. per side heavier).
1. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=1
2. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=2
3. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=5
4. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=9
5. http://ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=16
I had this same situation. For me this is what it came down to......
This car is going to get faster and faster with every build. period.
Eventualy, I'm probably going to break the 8" even if I put money into it.
And lastly, I will now have a broken rearend with hundreds of dollars into it.
IMO, keep the 8" until you break it, if you want to save money. Most of us here are just like you and on a tight budget.
If you are going to invest money into something, make it something you'll keep for a very looong time and will take the abuse of your future 351 turned stroker.
This car is going to get faster and faster with every build. period.
Eventualy, I'm probably going to break the 8" even if I put money into it.
And lastly, I will now have a broken rearend with hundreds of dollars into it.
IMO, keep the 8" until you break it, if you want to save money. Most of us here are just like you and on a tight budget.
If you are going to invest money into something, make it something you'll keep for a very looong time and will take the abuse of your future 351 turned stroker.
You can do what ol' Shelby did when there were no 9" rears for his Stangs...
Take a 9" housing center and weld your 8" tubes onto it and stick the 8" axles into a 28 spline chunk. That is how Shelby and HiPo 9" rears were made in 65-66.
That way all you need to do is find a non-disirable rear from a big car or truck and keep your axles, brakes, mounting points, etc... Some of the common rears can be found cheap or free. The only 9" rears that command high prices are those that are hard to find. This method doesn't require a specific rear.
Also, I have broken several 8" rears with 306 cubes.
I don't trust them.
Take a 9" housing center and weld your 8" tubes onto it and stick the 8" axles into a 28 spline chunk. That is how Shelby and HiPo 9" rears were made in 65-66.
That way all you need to do is find a non-disirable rear from a big car or truck and keep your axles, brakes, mounting points, etc... Some of the common rears can be found cheap or free. The only 9" rears that command high prices are those that are hard to find. This method doesn't require a specific rear.
Also, I have broken several 8" rears with 306 cubes.
I don't trust them.
I agree. I wouldn't leave an 8" behind most any V8. My brother used to have a 78 Granada with a 250ci straight six, C4 and an 8" rear. His wife drove it mostly, and the 8" didn't survive 30,000 miles.
I also agree if your long-term plans include a 393 stroker motor, don't waste money on the 8" rear. Save what $$ you can and build a sturdy 9" for your car.
ultra had it pretty much dead on. With an automatic, I have yet to see one break. With a stick, that would probably be another story.
There is a guy that comes to the shop I work at with a 66 falcon with a 8" with an auburn in it. Basic 306 with ported Gt40p heads, b-cam with 1.7s, RPM with a 650 holley. With the AOD it makes 250 or so to the tires and has gone some 8.20s-8.30s in the 1/8. On 150, it makes 370 and has been some 7.20s.
Mine only makes 270 on the motor to the tires with a c4 but it is coming out shortly for a t5. We shall see what happens . . .
There is a guy that comes to the shop I work at with a 66 falcon with a 8" with an auburn in it. Basic 306 with ported Gt40p heads, b-cam with 1.7s, RPM with a 650 holley. With the AOD it makes 250 or so to the tires and has gone some 8.20s-8.30s in the 1/8. On 150, it makes 370 and has been some 7.20s.
Mine only makes 270 on the motor to the tires with a c4 but it is coming out shortly for a t5. We shall see what happens . . .
Currie or Strange will, but they don't fall into the cheap or free catagories.
Also consider an 8.8" out of a fox or newer mustang for a '67. they are about the same width i believe, you'd just need to grind off the suspension mounts and weld on some leaf spring perches. They aren't quite as strong as a 9", but they will handle plenty more power than an 8". They also have the advantage of being a little lighter than the 9" (i believe).
Personally, i went with a nine for my future engine, just tossing out the idea.
Also consider an 8.8" out of a fox or newer mustang for a '67. they are about the same width i believe, you'd just need to grind off the suspension mounts and weld on some leaf spring perches. They aren't quite as strong as a 9", but they will handle plenty more power than an 8". They also have the advantage of being a little lighter than the 9" (i believe).
Personally, i went with a nine for my future engine, just tossing out the idea.
While we're talking about breaking axles and rear ends...
How much of a beating can a 9" from a '77-'78 Versailles take? Lets assume an AOD is in front of it.
I know its only 28 spline and isnt as strong as a Currie, but its stronger than the 8".
I recently bought a complete one, emergency brakes and all. It has the 4-piston Trac-Loc and so I'm planning on re-gearing it and swapping to a u-joint yolk from a 69 Galaxy. I hope to eventually put the 9" in a '67 FE Fairlane/Comet.
How much of a beating can a 9" from a '77-'78 Versailles take? Lets assume an AOD is in front of it.
I know its only 28 spline and isnt as strong as a Currie, but its stronger than the 8".
I recently bought a complete one, emergency brakes and all. It has the 4-piston Trac-Loc and so I'm planning on re-gearing it and swapping to a u-joint yolk from a 69 Galaxy. I hope to eventually put the 9" in a '67 FE Fairlane/Comet.
And my 8" had 400,000 miles on it behind a 289 A code and 4 speed. I agree that the 8" isn't the strongest rear end on the planet, but honestly! You make it sound like all of us should ditch our 8" for the 9" ASAP. I mean, even the 8" three ribbed pre-67 castings have survived quite well behind some Mustangs making pretty good horsepower. As long as the 393 stroker doesn't put traction to the ground, the 8" should last quite a while. As will the T5.
In your brother's case, perhaps the late castings (like most of the later 70s stuff, including the 302 blocks) aren't as good as the earlier ones. There may have been some other factors, too. A teenage son, perhaps?
As far as advice for Rusty67, I think there has been some very good suggestions so far. Build the stroker. Get a 9" ready while you build. Meanwhile, upgrade to the 3.55 8" for your 302 and sell the whole rear, housing and all, when you upgrade to the 9.
Daniel
You get larger[ stronger ] tapered bearings and the options for larger cheap brakes and the houseing is stronger but heavier. You can save some bucks buy not getting the n case and getting one already equiped with 31 axles. If you are driving on the street you would be hard pressed breaking a standard carrier.