How much will a new clutch kit installed cost, labor only?

Henceforward

The Avatar Master

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Jul 17, 2001

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May 31, 2004

#1

• May 31, 2004

• #1

I am going to call around on Tuesday, but what am I looking at spending for someone to replace the,

Clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing for 1992 Mustang GT 5.0L

Also, should I have the flywheel resurfaced?

Thanks

 

ECU5.0

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Jan 10, 2004

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raleigh, nc

May 31, 2004

#2

• May 31, 2004

• #2

you should definetly have the flywheel resurfaced....its probably gonna cost you anywhere from 300 to 450

 

Starscream88

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Mar 8, 2003

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Park Ridge NJ

May 31, 2004

#3

• May 31, 2004

• #3

Prices range from $200 to $1000 seriously, Some people charge an arm and a leg for a clutch job,

Its actually not that hard to do it yourself,
However, If your going to pay for it done $400 is a decent price,

You really have to get your flywheel resurfaced No use in doing the job again to try to save $40

Also Change your pilot bearing too,
You can get kits with everything like the Ford Racing King Cobra kit,
I installed mine January and havn't had any problems with it,
highly reccomend it
The kit comes with, Pilot Bearing, Throw out bearing, Clutch Disk, pressure plate and alignment tool,

 

Henceforward

The Avatar Master

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Jul 17, 2001

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May 31, 2004

#4

• May 31, 2004

• #4

I have two options, the centerforce kit is $300, and too expensive for my stock GT.

1. 1986-98 Heavy Duty Ford Racing Clutch Kit - Item #M7560A302 $169.95

or

2. 1986-98 King Cobra Ford Racing Clutch Kit - Item #M7560C302 $189.95


I have never had a clutch installed. Can someone please explain why I need to resurface the flywheel. I will get it done, but I am curious as to why this is important.

For a stock GT what would you go with?

1. or 2.?

 

ECU5.0

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Jan 10, 2004

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raleigh, nc

May 31, 2004

#5

• May 31, 2004

• #5

go with 2.....and to be completely honest with you im drawing a complete blank when it comes to why you need to resurface the flywheel

 

Grandmaster

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Dec 7, 2002

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Monticello, Arkansas

May 31, 2004

#6

• May 31, 2004

• #6

My mechanic installed my spec stage 1 kit for $170!! Shop around. I think if you dont have the flywheel resurfaced it might be a little jumpy/chattery when engaging, but i'm no expert, not even close.
-GM

 

B

blk92stangg

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Jan 30, 2004

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Hawaii

May 31, 2004

#7

• May 31, 2004

• #7

If you don't resurface, 9 out of 10 times the clutch will run good enough. The 10th time, the clutch will chatter, slip, and die on you. When you consider how much trouble it is to change out a clutch, and how much a clutch costs, its worth the 40-80 dollars it would cost to resurface. I went a step further and just bought a new stock flywheel for 100.00.
When your flywheel has imperfections, grooves and whatnot on it, the new clutch will not be able to grip it correctly. If you could possibly have access to some tools, jackstands and a friend or two, you could easily do it yourself in a few hours...and then you could spend the labor money on the centerforce....

 

Henceforward

The Avatar Master

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May 31, 2004

#8

• May 31, 2004

• #8

Thanks for the help Grandmaster. I might tackle this afterall, considering I have nothing else to do this summer.

 

T

TattooMatt

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Mar 23, 2004

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GA

Jun 1, 2004

#9

• Jun 1, 2004

• #9

A mustang speed shop quoted 250 for labor while a regular local shop quoted me 330. I brought it to the speed shop and they did a great job and had my car ready the same day it was scheduled to go in.

 

R

rdksek844

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Aug 30, 2001

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Port St. Lucie, FL

Jun 1, 2004

#10

• Jun 1, 2004

• #10

I would do it yourself. It is extreemly easy. I've done three my self on three different stangs and all were as easy as pie. I want to add though that I am no expert by any means but I have never nor will I ever recommend having the flywheel resurfaced. If its bad enough to need resurfacing, then I would just replace it. I have seen resurfaced flywheels cause problems. I have never had bad luck not resurfacing one if it checked out ok visually and through runout checks. Just my .02.

 

Henceforward

The Avatar Master

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Jun 1, 2004

#11

• Jun 1, 2004

• #11

Well, I ordered the clutch kit today,

King Cobra, new Main bearing seal, and 2 new U Joints...

I ordered a new clutch fork last week as a kit with the clutch cable, so I am all set.

My fathers friend at work is going to help me do the install, and we will look at the flywheel, I will probably get it resurfaced at a machineshop.

Thanks for the help, summer sure has started...

 

Henceforward

The Avatar Master

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Jun 1, 2004

#12

• Jun 1, 2004

• #12

I called around, $350-$400 is the price range, so I will have a local shop do the work.

I also spoke with a guy at the shop and he said that it was more than likely the T/O bearing that went bad.

I went to Advance and bought a new pilot bearing, while I'm getting all the other stuff replaced, I will have that done too.

Even found a local machine shop that will resurface the flywheel for $25!

 

bmo37

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Jun 27, 2001

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New Jersey

Jun 1, 2004

#13

• Jun 1, 2004

• #13

I suggest a ram clutch off ebay there way better than the king cobra's and its only about $160 for clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearing, alignment tool. I personally just bought a spec stage 3 clutch (680hp rated) for 300 bux shipped and love it you may want to look into the stage 1 or 2 for your application.

 

cevtv

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Sep 15, 2002

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Massachusetts

Jun 2, 2004

#14

• Jun 2, 2004

• #14

Henceforward said:

I called around, $350-$400 is the price range, so I will have a local shop do the work.

I also spoke with a guy at the shop and he said that it was more than likely the T/O bearing that went bad.

I went to Advance and bought a new pilot bearing, while I'm getting all the other stuff replaced, I will have that done too.

Even found a local machine shop that will resurface the flywheel for $25!

Click to expand...

$25 for surfacing the flywheel is about right. I paid $200 (labor and resurfacing flywheel only) to have a SPEC Stage 1 installed by one of the top shops in my area - had it done while I waited, too .

 

V

v8only

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Jul 3, 2003

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Jun 2, 2004

#15

• Jun 2, 2004

• #15

rdksek844 said:

I would do it yourself. It is extreemly easy. I've done three my self on three different stangs and all were as easy as pie. I want to add though that I am no expert by any means but I have never nor will I ever recommend having the flywheel resurfaced. If its bad enough to need resurfacing, then I would just replace it. I have seen resurfaced flywheels cause problems. I have never had bad luck not resurfacing one if it checked out ok visually and through runout checks. Just my .02.

Click to expand...

you are crazy!!

I'm going to apologize ahead of time.

You obviously know the steps behind a clutch replacement, but none of the logic behind it. A RESURFACED OEM FLYWHEEL WILL NOT CAUSE PROBLEMS

the problems you refer to are with some of the aftermarket steel and aluminum ones. ALWAYS RESURFACE YOUR FLYWHEEL

Now that I got the bitching done.

the flywheel must be perfectly resurfaced when mated with a new clutch. The surface of the flywheel unresurfaced will be inconsistent, will have hot spots, glaze, and will NOT grab the clutch nearly as good. In order for your clutch to break in properly, it needs a resurfaced fresh flywheel. your clutch disc is not perfectly flat, and relies on the flywheel to mate in and wear even (the 500 mile break-in) this is why you do NOT floor the vehicle, even after in gear, because your clutch disc has surface irregularities, and does not contact the flywheel 100% until it wears in. too much throttle can/will cause the disc to slip after fully engaged, possibly glazing over the disc/flywheel and ruining it.

skipping a $30 re-surface is pretty much wasting your clutch job. Yes it will usually work, but you are not getting anywhere near the full potential that the clutch may have gotten.

 

S

SlowGT

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Jun 17, 1999

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Columbia Co, PA

Jun 2, 2004

#16

• Jun 2, 2004

• #16

rdksek844 said:

I would do it yourself. It is extreemly easy. I've done three my self on three different stangs and all were as easy as pie. I want to add though that I am no expert by any means but I have never nor will I ever recommend having the flywheel resurfaced. If its bad enough to need resurfacing, then I would just replace it. I have seen resurfaced flywheels cause problems. I have never had bad luck not resurfacing one if it checked out ok visually and through runout checks. Just my .02.

Click to expand...

He's not completely crazy. It all depends on how bad the surface is. For the mods that Henceforward is showing, it's quite possible that he could do it himself and get by. Is this the best way? Absolutely not. But $25 is quite a bit for some guys. I've sanded some down and got away with it, and I've had others that were well beyond a sander.

If you can afford it and have the time, get it cut. How hard you fry the clutch will have a significant impact on how many times you can have the flywheel cut. I would think if you're going to pay somebody else to install it, then the additional $25 shouldn't hurt too bad. JMO

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Jun 2, 2004

#17

• Jun 2, 2004

• #17

ok, for me ive replace many stang clutchs, its easy just takes some time.......now for the resurfacing ur self, how can this be done? the machine makes the surface perfectly smooth and if u did it ur self it would be off...am i right here? id say spend $30 or so and have it done right!

 

Henceforward

The Avatar Master

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Jul 17, 2001

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Jun 2, 2004

#18

• Jun 2, 2004

• #18

I am going to have the work done at a local tranny shop.

But I am going to watch them do ALL the work. I will not leave untill they are done, and they will NOT drive the car anywhere.

I can just imagine if one of the guys at the shop felt like being real cool, and ruins the new clutch in the first hour

What is the wear period I have read 200-500 miles. I really want to break it in right.

What do you recommend?

 

S

SlowGT

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Jun 17, 1999

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Columbia Co, PA

Jun 2, 2004

#19

• Jun 2, 2004

• #19

I use an 8" orbital sander. Does a pretty nice job. I wouldn't be doing that for any serious performance applications though. Your right about the accuracy. It won't be as exact as the machine cut and you don't get down to a completely 'fresh' surface. All you're doing with a sander is removing the glaze.

Similar in theory to using a stone setup for deglazing cylinder walls. It's doesn't true up the cylinders, it simply cleans up the surface. I don't know if you'll find anybody deglazing cylinders anymore. I know you won't for performance buildups. It's strictly a budget move for the grocery getter or the work car. Just like sanding the flywheel: a budget move for a stock, or at best, mild bolt on application.

 

V

v8only

Active Member

Jul 3, 2003

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Jun 2, 2004

#20

• Jun 2, 2004

• #20

breakin minimum 500 miles. this means NO hard launches, and NO heavy throttle even when the clutch is fully out. take it easy for 500 miles, then let her rip. This doesn't mean a two way trip to vegas either, or whatever your party desination is. the 500 miles should be a lot of stop and go traffic. Driving 500 miles on the freeway will do you nothing.

watch the guys when they replace your rear main. They may try to use a screw driver to pull the old rear main out. This is actually very tricky. One slip from that screw driver, and they'll groove your crank, which will definetly result in a rear main leak. You can sleave it if that happens, but you have to sleave it before the rear main goes in.