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How required are C/C plates?

  • Thread starter Thread starter FalconGuy016
  • Start date Start date Jan 1, 2006
F

FalconGuy016

New Member
Oct 26, 2004
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Northern VA
Jan 1, 2006
#1
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #1
I understand that C/C plates adjust castor and camber, but I really have no experience to tell me what exactly that would do for me. I am saving up for a Bilstein BTS kit (shocks and struts with some matched springs) and I was wondering how important C/C plates would actually be. I will eventually get them for sure, but would the in between time be bad or damaging in some way?
 

streetstang03

unModerator
Dec 27, 2003
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the dark side of the moon/home of the 1999, 2003,
Jan 1, 2006
#2
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #2
how big of a drop do those springs give??

if its more than 1.5", you're going to need C/C plates
 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici
Admin Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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Jan 1, 2006
#3
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #3
Most say if you lower more than 1 inch or 1.5 inches, you will need them.

I am one for overkill and would have them installed if I did any kind of spring install.

While you are at it, grab a strut tower brace.
 
F

FalconGuy016

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#4
  • Jan 1, 2006
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Got a strut tower brace

What exactly will the negative consequences be without C/C plates, I guess that's what I want to know.
 
D

d90212

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kailua, hawaii
Jan 1, 2006
#5
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #5
you butcher up your strut tower. elongate holes so you can attain the proper alignment angles. be sure to do a search on caster camber plates as well, like kmembers not all are made the same. Maximum Motorsport is one of the best brands out there.
 
F

FalconGuy016

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#6
  • Jan 1, 2006
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^^ Yeah I plan on the MM C/C plates. So my strut tower will start... deforming I guess? Is this something that will happen immediately or do I have some time at least.
 

streetstang03

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Dec 27, 2003
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the dark side of the moon/home of the 1999, 2003,
Jan 1, 2006
#7
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #7
your tires might wear unevenly. I would put the new springs and shock/struts on and let it settle for ~2 weeks. then, go get an alignment and see if you NEED C/C plates.
 
D

d90212

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#8
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it wont deform, but youll also make pple like me have a better day at shooting your alignment.
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
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santa barbara, CA
Jan 1, 2006
#9
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #9
make sure that the steeda brace wont interfere with the MM plates. i know the MM brace doesnt interfere, but they were designed with teh MM plates in mind.
 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici
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#10
  • Jan 1, 2006
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Lastly, make sure the person doing the alignment knows the car is lowered and knows what he/she is doing.
 
F

FalconGuy016

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Jan 3, 2006
#11
  • Jan 3, 2006
  • #11
^^ Are there any keywords and points I can learn to see whether or not they are going to do it right? The last thing I want is to do all this and just have somebody else screw it all up.
 

StangPro

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Jan 4, 2006
#12
  • Jan 4, 2006
  • #12
Tell them you want a print out showing it's in spec AFTER being torqued down, and watch them that the print out is the last thing that happens before they pull the heads off of the wheels.
 

hognutz

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Jan 4, 2006
#13
  • Jan 4, 2006
  • #13
with the bts system you should not need CC plates for the alinement.

MM uses sphericale bearings so it locates the strut more positively so it does not defect under load and change your alinements settings. They will transfer more road noise on very crappy roads though.

short story long one of the main reasons mustangs handle so bad stock is all the flex and deflection build into the system. I don't know how much of that is in the stock upper sturt mount though.

the bts system is designed for more optimum handling so it only puts the car down about 1" so you dont' lower your roll center too much. springs like the H&R supersports I went with will negativly affect your handling a bit by lower the roll center. I hated the 4x4 look bad enough I just did not care. I know MM still recomends thier CC plates even if not needed for alinement so I would call them and talk to one of their tech people. They offer them with thier starter box that includes the MM race springs that only have a 1" drop.
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
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Jun 8, 2000
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Jan 4, 2006
#14
  • Jan 4, 2006
  • #14
hognutz said:
with the bts system you should not need CC plates for the alinement.
Click to expand...
that's some hard meat to swallow..

hognutz said:
short story long one of the main reasons mustangs handle so bad stock is all the flex and deflection build into the system.
Click to expand...
don't forget the "from the factory" misalignment, they aren't really in to spec, you can have stock suspension and have a hard time getting it into alignment

hognutz said:
I don't know how much of that is in the stock upper sturt mount though.
Click to expand...
not much, the strut tower can withstand alot
 

trailblazr81

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May 17, 2003
571
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Hollister, Cali
Jan 4, 2006
#15
  • Jan 4, 2006
  • #15
I have heard of stock Mustangs having trouble being aligned. And stock you cant adjust caster. With Eibach Sportlines I was at -2.4 degrees camber. Front tires wore on the edges. Would be great if was a dedicated auto-X car but not best for street driving. I could see the tires leaning in on top. So I can really screw up caster and camber with the plates. You really should get them and have a shop do it or like me install and drive straight to alignment shop!!
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
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48
StateCollege PA
Jan 4, 2006
#16
  • Jan 4, 2006
  • #16
generally, anything less then 1.5 requires no CC plate.


BUT i would use them for the adjastability it provide
 

reeber

10 Year Member
Mar 10, 2004
574
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38
Berlin, NJ
Jan 5, 2006
#17
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #17
I am having mine installed tomorrow... I got the chrome MM plates... I am building my front in stages... I'll put the plates on, the get the control arm's / coil over kit.. Then finally do the K-member as I get the money together..
 

V_Eight

Founding Member
Sep 5, 2002
617
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ATL
Jan 5, 2006
#18
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #18
I have drag springs, that are about a 2" drop f/r, maybe more. I ate up the front tire in about 4-5k miles, just from camber.
 
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