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How to: 13" Baer Rear Upgade Kit!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 91LX_5L
  • Start date Start date Apr 18, 2006

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 18, 2006
#1
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #1
I posted this over on my forums and thought I would post it up here since I have read some threads about this kit over the past.


This is a very popular rear brake upgrade kit from Baer.

This kit will allow you to use your stock rear brake calipers, pads, and lines on new Baer 13 inch cross drilled and slotted brake rotors. This will upgrade both the appearance and performance of your Mustang.

Features:

* Rear Caliper Bracket (mounts your stock calipers)
* Cross Drilled and Slotted Zinc Plated Rotors
* No need to bleed brakes or even remove brake lines
* Quick installation!




INSTALL

1.) Jack up car, put axel stands under rear, block front wheels. Remove wheels

2.) Remove parking brake cable from caliper


3.) Remove caliper bolts (2 @ 19mm)


4.) Slide caliper off rotor and remove your old rotor, try not to let the brake line feeding into the caliper take the weight, support the caliper.

5.) Now you have to remove your groan bracket. Behind your caliper you will see the the u bolt and two nuts, remove the nuts (2 nuts @ 13mm) and slide the u bolt out, then remove the groan bracket.


6.) Now more then likely you will have to take some excess off the groan bracket to make up for the added space that the new baer caliper braket will take up. You cant really take too much off so dont worry but be careful. I gound mine down untill it was almost even with the lip above, as you can see in the picture, this seemed to be the perfect amount and I wasnt fighting to force it in (I took less off the 1st time but it didnt quite fit so it took more off which I suggest you try.
Before:


After:

Once done re-install.

7.) Now place the new baer caliper bracket in place with the stock caliper mouting location.
NOTE: If you want to keep the dust shield you will have to trim off the far left corner so that it doesnt interfer with the bracket. Either that or remove the dust sheild completly (I trimmed, took me like 30 seconds might not look pretty but will be hidden with the brakes when finished anyways)


8.) Now, Slide the bolts in new bracket from the outside but dont tighen them up yet. This bracket lifts the caliper mouting location up to allow for the 13" rotor to fit.


9.) Now fit the groan bracket back in place, it should fit, might need to wiggle it around, if it is still too tight grind more off. Once its in put the u-bolt back thru and just put the nuts on finger tight so that the ubolt doesnt slide out.


10.) Now tighten up the new baer bracket via the supplyed bolts, nuts, and washers I found a wrench on the front and a socket on the back worked the best. Then tighten up the groan bracket.


Now your pretty much done! Grab a beer and take a quick break!

11.) With everything tight its time to slide on the new rotor. Hold the rotor in place with a nut or two, or any other way (just makes it easier).
NOTE: At this time I installed new pads which I would reccomend if they havent been replaced recently.

12.) Now its time to install the caliper again, slide it over your rotor and bolt it up to the new baer bracket with the supplied bolts.
NOTE: it says to use the hex bolt in the top location which is wrong because it doesnt even extend thru the end of the bracket, you use it on the bottom. I didnt use the hex since I didnt have a large enough allen key for it, plus I wouldnt be able to torque it enough anyways so I just used my old stock caliper bolt which worked fine.
NOTE 2: If your caliper wont fit on the rotor...you have to compress the piston in the caliper, you will need a 'rear caliper tool' (which you should be able to rent) for this since the caliper has to be spun as well as forced in at the same time

13.) Place your wheels back on, torque to spec to make sure you dont damage your new rotors.




Your done!




Anyways there u guys go. Sorry if its not 100% im not a super mechanic or a novelist.
 
B

bimmertech

New Member
May 3, 2005
1,123
0
0
merriam, ks
Apr 18, 2006
#2
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #2
i sure wish they made a kit for cobra brakes.

roush makes a rear brake kit like this one as well--pricey though
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 18, 2006
#3
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #3
Yeah for the brake diffrence of the roush kit it sure isnt worth the money, this is basically for looks but it looks damn good with the 13" cobras up front.
 

Blackened302

Active Member
Jul 21, 2005
1,439
0
36
South TX
Apr 18, 2006
#4
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #4
great write-up, matt! if you don't mind, how much is this kit?
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 19, 2006
#5
  • Apr 19, 2006
  • #5
I paied just under $250 for it shipped.
 

Blackened302

Active Member
Jul 21, 2005
1,439
0
36
South TX
Apr 19, 2006
#6
  • Apr 19, 2006
  • #6
91LX_5L said:
I paied just under $250 for it shipped.
Click to expand...
hot damn, that seems like a good deal! link?
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Apr 19, 2006
#7
  • Apr 19, 2006
  • #7
yeah ... great write up! if i hadn't just gotten rear brake rotors and pads, i would definately put this on my list.

punisher: are you looking at this for your next car, or have you decided to keep this one?
 

69clark

Founding Member
Sep 25, 2002
731
7
18
Ravena, NY
Apr 19, 2006
#8
  • Apr 19, 2006
  • #8
Yeah that sounds like an awesome deal. I never knew it was that cheap.
 

Blackened302

Active Member
Jul 21, 2005
1,439
0
36
South TX
Apr 19, 2006
#9
  • Apr 19, 2006
  • #9
selling/keeping is still up in the air. if i end up keeping it, i'd say this is a worthwhile mod, especially at the price matt listed.
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 19, 2006
#10
  • Apr 19, 2006
  • #10
if anyone wants it PM me and ill tell em where to get it for the best price possible.
 

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
0
0
Glenview,Il
Apr 20, 2006
#11
  • Apr 20, 2006
  • #11
I have the same kit... but I got w/ plain rotors as mine is a dd/open track application. As for grinding of the groan brakets...that was not enough for me. I had to chisel off the old weld, grind the groan bracket down and re-weld the u-bolt hole thingy back on there shifted about 0.5 cm. Its pretty easy but not everyone has access to tools to do that (grinder, chisel set, mig welder). I would recommend that you take a measurement to see how much you need to remove and if you think you are gonna get to the weld you may want to take it to a shop and have them shorten the bracket and shift the u-bolt part over for the clerance you need. I doubt it would cost much...but just thought I would mention it so people dont go into this unprepared.
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 20, 2006
#12
  • Apr 20, 2006
  • #12
Yeah well mine fit in pretty easily with how much I took off and I could of taken off another 1/8" at least. But yea good to know.
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 25, 2006
#13
  • Apr 25, 2006
  • #13
Here are some pics I just took earlier today

 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 30, 2006
#14
  • Apr 30, 2006
  • #14
Well its on and car brakes awesome, I did add cobras up front so I really doubt that the rears helped much but there are no problems they do make a "wooshing" noise when braking guessing just the deisgn of the rear rotors?
 
W

War Horse

New Member
Jul 20, 2005
2
0
0
Jun 29, 2006
#15
  • Jun 29, 2006
  • #15
Does anyone know if the 13" rotors used by this kit are the same as the 13" cobra front rotors? Are they the same thickness or thinner?
 

95strokerPSU

Member
Jul 29, 2004
986
1
19
Sacramento from Philly
Jun 29, 2006
#16
  • Jun 29, 2006
  • #16
Thinner, significantly thinner.
 
W

War Horse

New Member
Jul 20, 2005
2
0
0
Jun 29, 2006
#17
  • Jun 29, 2006
  • #17
I thought they looked quite slim. That would mean your are tied to buying Baer replacement rotors... Even though that shouldn't be too often, it is still a downside in that you can't just go to a part store and pick them up. Thanks for the info...
 
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