boy you will keep permatex silicone division in business with all that you use. i would change that oil filter in about 2 miuntes of running. do you know how bad that is if you get any of that in you oil galleys? i can't tell you how many engines i have seen fail b/c that stuff gets caught in a head gasket of oil galley. have you ever heard of using indian head sealer and ARP thread sealer? not to make fun of you for a great article but i think you might want to ease up on the sealer? you even put it on the valve cover gaskets. if you use good valve cover gaskets(rubber ver steel) they do not need sealer. also if you use the one piece oil pan seal you only need a few dabs in each corner of the pan. i also hope that you used the correct formula the compensate for the extension on your torque wrench. ford are know to blow head gaskets and you need to make sure that you have ample clamping force and good gaskets (Cometic MLS/Fel-Pro MLS/Titan Cooper etc...)did you retorqe your head bolts after your first heat soak? i hope that you deck was flat. sorry i don't mean to pick at you i just would hate to see someone spend good money after bad for a few extra dollars. oh and if i can ad one more thing if you are running a auto trans you want to set the crank in the rear-ward setting when setting the thrust bearing and forward in a stick. P.S. you know that you put the pasti-gauge strip on incorrectly(it should go on from front to back not side to side)to correctly measure with plasti-gauge you need to lay the strip the other way on the journel. this way you are to take up the clearance evenly and get a more accurate reading and take the smallest reading and largest reading if any and get you average clearance. the strip should be evenly crushed. sorry guy just tring to help out. not to put some more salt in your wound.
I happen to agree with this guy,you did use alot of sealer in places where it was not need,or where another product would have been better.The only thing Ill say is the valve cover gaskets do tend to need some sealer on the vavle cover side,as the aftermarket rails dont seem to be perfectly flat. But you do have to remove the excess and let the gaskets "dry on" to the vlave covers off the motor.
On the issue of galley plugs,if you have access to the proper taps or have the block in the machine shop,you might as well tap the galley end plugs for a NPT plug,its 1/8" NPT I believe it was.
Your a little off on the head gaskets though,hipochevys,I have used both Cometic and the am currently runing the Titan SCE and I have talked with the manufactor and they DO NOT require retorquing after inital break-in.However,the RA on the deck surface must be 50 RA (μin.) or finer (ours is around 20-25) and cylinder head must be no more than 18 RA. Of course the smoother the better when it comes to these type race gaskets. Standard Fel-Pro composite style gaskets however can get away with alot rougher surface,but should be retorqued after inital break-in.I have not had any problem and am runing 13.5:1 and spraying moderate amounts of nitrous. I should mention though,our motor is a 351W based,so it uses the larger 1/2" ARP stud with 110ft-lbs of torque (moly lube,not 30wt. oil)
The oil pan gasket appeared to be a 4 piece,witch never seal well,so the sealer in basicly the gasket...