i would not sand blast, or wire brush the pistons. use brake cleaner and a rag. i wouldn't do anything that is going to effect the finish of the pistons, especially on the outside edge and wrist pin location.
that just doesn't make sence, stage III 278AH which are basically impossible to degree and need fly-cutting usually are 242/246. I went to powerhead's site and it posts .510"x.530" cams and no duration specs. Either you got those figures wrong or you're never going to make those work. 230 intake would be really high for a stage 1.
You would have been further ahead just saving up the money for a set of forged slugs IMO. At least then you'd have a little strength and well as the required valve relief to go with the compression.
There's also no guarantee that the Mark VIII pistons are going to have the required amount of clearance. Who knows how much wear they've got on them and how much is on your block? I do believe the rods between the 2V and 4V engines are slightly different as well, which may or may not affect things.
Just curious, but why would you go through the trouble of pulling the engine apart just to put crappy stock cast pistons back in when PI heads can be had for next to nothing now a days which will not only cut down on the work, but increase your compression to desired levels and increase flow rates over your current NPI heads?
im not just pulling the engine apart to put the pistons in, i am going to rebuild the bottom end with good bearings, windage tray, high volume oil pump, arp studs ect, i cant afford forged internals right now, so i just want to have a fresh, rebuilt motor with a few good performance parts in the bottom end, i plan on totally rebuilding it with all forged parts in a few years from now, but for right now i just want a fresh motor that i can run down a track and not worry about the bottom end, since it does have over 105k on it....
I hate to tell you this, but even with a rebuild there's still no guarantee that you're going to save the bottom end. It'll be alright with normal aspiration, but any sort of power adder will kill it quite easily if your tune or fuel system is lacking in any way.
Also, you stock oil pan has a windage tray built into it, so there's really no need for a second. And unless you plan on really pushing the engine hard with some sort of power adder, the FRPP oil pump is really overkill.
For the work and money involve, you would probably be further ahead just picking yourself up a used, low mileage engine out of an Explorer or something. You should be able to get one for somewhere in the $800-$1,500 range and you'll gain the benefit of the higher flow PI heads and the added weight savings of the aluminum block. Not to mention you won't need to tear into the engine....which trust me....having been a person who's done it on a couple of occasions, is a big plus.
He wants to use his ported NPI head with SS valves
professional porting by MMR starts at $550i know it will not make me save the bottom end, it wil just be a new bottom end, and im pretty sure the stock oil pan has no windage tray, the frpp oil pump is only 60$ so it cant hurt
and yes i have the ported npi's, ss valves, 3 angle valve job, comp beehive valve springs and had the heads resurfaced for well under $500
professional porting by MMR starts at $550
^ i think that youll put down better numbers than cobra red especially with that other ported item you have
If we measure crank hp/tq even with him having LT's im willing to make a wager on that.^ i think that youll put down better numbers than cobra red especially with that other ported item you have
If we measure crank hp/tq even with him having LT's im willing to make a wager on that.
I dunno, something just for sporting fun. Like the loser has to buy stangnet decal(s) for the other or something else insignificant. I honestly don't know how much crank i'm going to put out because I haven't seen my exact set-up's dyno #'s, and i'll admit you and 98Cobra don't know every facet of my parts, but i don't know his either.how much we talkin? how much do you honesly think your gonna have at the crank?
I'd like to see some porting pics!!!
I dunno, something just for sporting fun. Like the loser has to buy stangnet decal(s) for the other or something else insignificant. I honestly don't know how much crank i'm going to put out because I haven't seen my exact set-up's dyno #'s, and i'll admit you and 98Cobra don't know every facet of my parts, but i don't know his either.
Well...I've had more than a couple of them apart and I can tell you unequivocally that the stock pans have got windage trays built right into them.and im pretty sure the stock oil pan has no windage tray, the frpp oil pump is only 60$ so it cant hurt
Try not to take this the wrong way…..here's a few
dont mind the hairy leg
exhaust port with ford gasket
intake port with pi gasket
Try not to take this the wrong way…..
It’s not a horrible job, but they do look as though you rushed them a little. To be honest they still like they're a long way from being finished. There's still a lot of meat left in the ports on the intake side and I see tons of scuffs and gouges in the port walls on both sides.
The pics don't show any real comparison between the ports, but I really hope you were uniform in your porting and took your time. Nothing ruins a port job like inconsistency and just simply gasket matching the port openings doesn’t mean you’ve increased the flow substantially. Remember.....size and shaper are more important than volume in most cases. Especially in a N/A application. It’s wasn’t quite as easy as you thought it would be, is it?
I still think you would be further ahead right now to start fresh with a set of stock PI castings and just transfer your valve train over to them, but its your money.
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