How to diagnose cc plate clunk/pop?

T

The Screwdriver

New Member

Jan 14, 2003

76

0

0

Seattle, Washington

Jan 13, 2006

#1

• Jan 13, 2006

• #1

I have a 99 GT that's has a clunk/pop in the suspension when the weight shifts in the car or when turning over a bump at slow speeds. It started after installing MM caster plates and MRT street suspension kit. I've found a lot of threads on the topic (including my own) but I'm still not able to fix it in my car. I've taken it back to the installer and nothing is every noticably loose. They re-tighten everything to spec and the clunk doesn't happen as often... but it is still there and it comes back within a few weeks.

A lot of threads mentioned that the cc plate bearing was to blame or that the shocks weren't tightened all the way to the cc plate. I know it's a simple question- but how can I test this at home? I have an electric impact wrench but when I try to loosen the nut holding the shock to the cc plate, it just spins the shock. Is there anything I can look for or try out to rule out the bearing?

Thanks,
Jim

 

tomustang

Psychotic Member

Founding Member

Jun 8, 2000

3,434

2

78

McLean Hospital

Jan 13, 2006

#2

• Jan 13, 2006

• #2

what's included in the MRT street suspension kit?

 

T

The Screwdriver

New Member

Jan 14, 2003

76

0

0

Seattle, Washington

Jan 13, 2006

#3

• Jan 13, 2006

• #3

I contacted both MRT and MM and they said they never heard of any such problems.

MRT Street Performance Kit (from their website):
Performance tuned Tokico front struts; Including unique valving and revised jounce stops.

Aggressive Linear rate front springs - lowering lower your GT by 1-1/4", manage body roll during aggressive cornering and braking.

Performance tuned Tokico rear shocks; Optimized to perform at this ride height.

Aggressive Linear rate rear springs; The rear springs finish the job in lowering your Mustang and manage the balance between performance and comfort.

 

tomustang

Psychotic Member

Founding Member

Jun 8, 2000

3,434

2

78

McLean Hospital

Jan 13, 2006

#4

• Jan 13, 2006

• #4

The Screwdriver said:

I contacted both MRT and MM and they said they never heard of any such problems.

MRT Street Performance Kit (from their website):
Performance tuned Tokico front struts; Including unique valving and revised jounce stops.

Aggressive Linear rate front springs - lowering lower your GT by 1-1/4", manage body roll during aggressive cornering and braking.

Performance tuned Tokico rear shocks; Optimized to perform at this ride height.

Aggressive Linear rate rear springs; The rear springs finish the job in lowering your Mustang and manage the balance between performance and comfort.

Click to expand...

I've read of one case where a MM C/C plate bearing went bad but that was years ago, if a reputable shop looked at it i'd say it's the bearing, it could also be a misalignet plate, bad shims (very rare) still having a loose strut nut or the plate themselves are not tightened enough

Or when everything was replaced the pre existing sound just got amplified, like a ball joint, tie rod, steering rack..

 

T

TrueBlueNJ

New Member

Dec 3, 2005

24

0

0

Jan 13, 2006

#5

• Jan 13, 2006

• #5

I had a problem very similar to this... whenever I went over a bump, hump or went up a hill and happend to turn the wheel at all I heard a loud popping. Sounds kinda similiar to what your describing, basically it happened when there was a weight shift involved also. I think it ended up being something with the steering linkage. Took the car to ford, it was under warrenty, and had a mechanic ride with me until it made the damn noise. Took ford another two days to locate where the hell the noise was comming from.

Since your car is lowered, it may have changed some of your steering geometry and linakages etc. You may not have the same problem as me, but I posted because it just sounds all too familiar...check with these linkages. Hope everythign works out.

 

T

The Screwdriver

New Member

Jan 14, 2003

76

0

0

Seattle, Washington

Jan 13, 2006

#6

• Jan 13, 2006

• #6

Thanks for the suggestions, that's what I read too. The clunk/pop noise only happens when I'm driving and I can't make it happen when I'm under the hood. So I'm having a really hard time figuring out what is actually wrong. I don't want to just take it to shop after shop and throw money at it.

If anyone has ideas on what I can do to narrow down what the problem is... I'd really appreciate it. How can I tell if the bearing is bad? Can I loosen the top strut mounting nut (that attaches to the CC plates) without ruining my alignment?

Thanks,
Jim

 

T

TrueBlueNJ

New Member

Dec 3, 2005

24

0

0

Jan 13, 2006

#7

• Jan 13, 2006

• #7

Yea, I just read your thread again....sounds like the same EXACT problem. I know how annoying it can be to describe it to a shop as I said in my previous post.

Take your car to a small incline such as an entrance to steep driveway, turn your wheel into the hill and ease forward. In a situation like this, I was able to "make" the popping happen on command as I rolled up and down the incline. If you can't find the problem yourself, take your car to ford and have a mechanic ride with you while you get it to make the noise.

At one point I thought I had the problem solved, only to hear the noise again a week later.

ENDED UP BEING MY POWERSTEERING UNIT...I know it doesn't seem to make much sense...anyways car was under warrenty Ford replaced the entire unit and IT NEVER MADE THE DAMN POPPING NOISE AGAIN. so yeh check your powersteering unit...the whole rack and pinon set up down there. Hope this helps because I know it drove me crazy. Your thread is bringing back bad memories of me spending 2 months trying to figure what the heck was goin on! haha

 

1LowGT

New Member

Sep 4, 2005

294

0

0

st louis mo.

Jan 14, 2006

#8

• Jan 14, 2006

• #8

i had the problem also but after installing poly rack bushings its gone

 

1fast03pony

Member

Jul 1, 2003

749

0

17

New york

Jan 14, 2006

#9

• Jan 14, 2006

• #9

is it deep in the suspension or does it sound right in the hood

if its a shallow clunk in the hood area its your c/c plate (this is the first thing people blame for a suspension noise and its usually the least common)

if its a deeper clunk, its a bad strut

(ive had both)

Theyre significantly different sounds. It can drive you up the wall..

good luck


EDIT i also just read your post again...

It happens when you turn the wheel, I also had that noise- that was my steering rack brackets moving and clanking against the k member- replaced them and put offset poly rack bushings- problem is completely gone.

 

stangGT97

New Member

Dec 22, 2004

1,299

1

0

Boston area, MA

Jan 14, 2006

#10

• Jan 14, 2006

• #10

The Screwdriver said:

If anyone has ideas on what I can do to narrow down what the problem is... I'd really appreciate it. How can I tell if the bearing is bad? Can I loosen the top strut mounting nut (that attaches to the CC plates) without ruining my alignment?

Click to expand...

I would assume you can remove it... on my bilsteins, I needed to use a hex key/ Allen wrench which fit into the strut itself, and then used a 13/16 wrench to loosen the nut. the alignment shouldnt be affected if you dont play with the tie rod ends, CC shims, etc

 

T

The Screwdriver

New Member

Jan 14, 2003

76

0

0

Seattle, Washington

Jan 14, 2006

#11

• Jan 14, 2006

• #11

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll take a look under the car this week and check out the things you mentioned. I really appreciate it.

-Jim

 

S

Stokestack

Member

Apr 5, 2010

38

4

18

Apr 5, 2010

#12

• Apr 5, 2010

• #12

I'm having the same problem with Bilstein struts and MM C/C plates. I've had three shops look for this noise. The ball joints and wheel bearings have been checked, and now I've had the Bilsteins replaced entirely. The new struts actually made the problem worse, which leaves the C/C plates. I ran a microphone into the engine compartment and taped it to the C/C plate. Listen to this ridiculous noise:

http://GetAmbitious.com/car/close.mp3

After describing this problem to MM in detail, they emphasized the need to make sure the bolt on the top of the plate was tight. Well, it's not budging. And now I'm finding widespread reports of this exactly problem, which has me somewhat pissed that MM happily failed to mention the plates as suspect and I went on to buy unnecessary struts.

 

scupking

Active Member

Sep 18, 2005

1,186

1

36

Enfield, CT

Apr 5, 2010

#13

• Apr 5, 2010

• #13

I have MM C/C plates and bilsteins. I have a sound from the front driver side when going over a small bump that makes a popping sound. I have had this issue ever since I had the MM C/C and bilsteins put on. All the shops say everything looks normal. It is driving me nuts. I have just learned to live it for now.

 

Skidawg

Member

Nov 11, 2003

104

0

16

Apr 5, 2010

#14

• Apr 5, 2010

• #14

I had a very bad popping sound when going over bumps or when the weight shifted. We finally tracked it down to the bolts not holding the CC plates tight and they were sliding back and forth. We put some glue on the bolts and tightened them. Never had a sound since. It did sound a little different than the clip, but nearly similar in frequency.

 

P

peepeeskillz

New Member

Mar 23, 2009

171

0

0

texas

Apr 6, 2010

#15

• Apr 6, 2010

• #15

same here, except i have mac c/c plates. it made poping noises when i turned the wheel, and over bumps sometimes. one day when i was looking under the hood i noticed that there were marks on the plates looked like the adjustment part was sliding back and forth so i tightened them as tight as i could and havent had a problem since

 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member

Oct 10, 2000

1,427

6

79

Chesterfield, MO

Apr 7, 2010

#16

• Apr 7, 2010

• #16

Gents:

Just after I installed my c/c plates, the front would 'clank' a bit as the suspension compressed and released after a bump. Allen key in the strut rod and a big wrench to snug up the retaining nut cured the clanking. Absolutely no noise from the suspension up front. The lesson I learned is that if you think the nut is tight, go back and tighten it up a bit more.

HTH,

Chris