BlackVert said:subscribing because my goal is also to spin to 7000 someday.
i will definately want to to with the lightest rotating assembly i can afford.
would a 306 be easier to spin to 7000 than a 331 because of the shorter distance the pistons are moving?
joe, what springs do you have in mind here?
RPM doesnt matter when pegging a MAF its how much air is passing through it. If you had a bad set up i bet you could rev to 7k and not peg a MAF. I still have my Pro-M 80mm calibrated for 19#s and im juuuust peggin it at around 5,800rpm. Im gonna get it recalibrated soon, i hope.Pokageek said:Hang on..somebody said that I am pegging my stock MAF at higher RPM. Grady aren't you running a stock MAF?
Joes95GT said:Revving to 7k RPM ain't nothin' if you've got the scratch to do it.
You need:
1) A less aggressive, more "square" cam lobe, compared to most OTS street cams.
2) A factory set of Ford lifters will work just fine.
3) Light(er)weight, expensive springs with tons of open pressure.
4) Titanium retainers.
Cylinder head flow doesn't make a bit of difference in making power in the higher RPM - it's all in the cam timing. If you REALLY wanted to, you could zing a set of E7's to 7000 RPM in unported form.
You don't need long rods to make anything work. A BBC can turn to 7k if set up properly and they have a rod ratio into the high 1.4's or low 1.5's.
302 motors are built to rev. Replace the rod bolts and everything else will spin if its set up properly.
Joe
gustang818 said:How about a non-roller 302 with a solid cam, a good set of heads and a carb? Back in the 70's I had a solid lifter 350 Chevy (3.48" stroke) with stock rotating assembly that I shifted at 7000 and it would rev to 8k.
I wouldn't say "easier" but it would cost less. You also wouldn't go as fast. It all really depends on what you want to do. With increased piston speed, you need stuff that moves more air in order to maintain driveability. Strap E7's on a 7000 RPM 347 and you're going to work in an operating range of about 4000-7000 RPM. Put a set of AFR 225s on a 347 and you can probably work down into the 2500 range all the way up to 7000.BlackVert said:would a 306 be easier to spin to 7000 than a 331 because of the shorter distance the pistons are moving?
joe, what springs do you have in mind here?
Awe man what a piece of junk our motors are!!
Just Kidding. So all the HCI cars are making their 300rwhp under 6k rpm? What's the realistic hp numbers for a smog legal $6-8k 374?
I concur. The guy doesn't seem to want to spend or have the scratch for a $2k valvetrain job. Anything can be done for the right amount of money. We sent a man to the moon for Pete's sake....You are not gonna get to the kinds or rpms you guys are talking about and stay within Gabe's intent in his original post.
then again
Maybe I'm staying too basic with my understanding of his question.
I am sure there is nothing inexpensive about a Pure Street combo.
As for a stock block, iron headed combo, which is the most inexpensive way to go and what he now has .............
Even if you only beefed up the spring pressure to turn 7k, you are not gonna be all that reliable as that pressure will put quicker wear and tear on everything
I'm not saying you can't turn the rpm
just not in an inexpensive, reliable way
Grady
Ha! Yeah that was going to be my original response when I saw he thread title. Why? Make your horsepower at a lower rpm like the rest of the masses. If you're afraid of running out of rpm's go to a higher gear.Kidding aside for a sec... Why do you want to rev to 7K? What are you trying to accomplish by revving to
So why 7K?