How to get it running

UNVMATT

New Member
Jan 15, 2004
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COLUMBUS
I got a 67 stang with a 289 2V.
Its been sitting for 5 years without running.

I changed the battery and chewed up plug wires. The car fires and almost starts but it wont completely run.. I smell gas after I try starting it for awhile so I think the fuel pump is working. I primed it before I tried starting it..
it fires up but just wont run for longer than 2 seconds..

Any advice on how to get it running?

I cleaned out the carb, linkage, plugs. The points and distributor cap look new.

Thanks again!
 
it could be a number of things:
1) carb might need a good rebuild cause 5 years of sitting ain't good for anything. it might just need some good adjustments
2) check the timing. i think that could have something to do with it
3) get some starter fluid to spray in the carb. only a small spray will do. punch the gas as soon as the engine turns over and see if you can get her running until you let off completely.

i'll let the other guys here take care of this if none of my possible solutions help. hope you get her running soon
 
UNVMATT said:
I got a 67 stang with a 289 2V.
Its been sitting for 5 years without running.

I changed the battery and chewed up plug wires. The car fires and almost starts but it wont completely run.. I smell gas after I try starting it for awhile so I think the fuel pump is working. I primed it before I tried starting it..
it fires up but just wont run for longer than 2 seconds..

Any advice on how to get it running?

I cleaned out the carb, linkage, plugs. The points and distributor cap look new.

Thanks again!

Can you give us more specifics as to the condition of the car prior to sitting? For example, was the tank completely drained first or the leftover gas top offed and stabalized or was it just palin ole left to sit with what ever was in there? Has it been checked for setiment? What type of carb is it? Does it have an electric or manual choke if any? Any info specifics you can give us will aid in the diagnosis.
 
Thanks
I just recently purchased it. The tank was near empty when I got it. It has a factory 2bbl carb with electric choke.

I know the tank needs changed. Im going to restore the car from the frame up..I just want to get it running to drive it a few miles away to my garage rather than paying for a tow.
 
Try disconnecting the front and rear rubber fuel lines where they attach to the steel line, then see if you can blow through the steel line with compressed air (be prepared to plug the rubber lines to minimize leakage, especially back by the fuel tank). Old gasoline can turn to thick varnish in that fore-aft line, resulting in fuel starvation.
 
So was the near empty new or old though? If old you should just drain and toss it. What you can also try to do is say have a gallon or less in there, and add about a 1/3rd of a bottle of carb cleaner like Gumout or STP type product into it (Usually a whole bottle treats up to 20 gallons but you want it concentrated). Keep attempting to start it (most of these cars like a full pedal press followed by holding it at half way for a cold start) until you finally get a catch and then keep leaning into it until you get it to idle on it's own. I would then let it run dry, then add some more gas and concentrated cleaner combo and do it again to really break up and flush out the varish.

Even a good running carbed car can stall out if you try to just start it and let it idle like EFI. You'll have to tease it with the gas pedal for a few seconds at least. I would also try disconnecting that electric choke, my car personally starts much better without it, especially when already hot. Once you get it also check the timing as mentioned before. Stock suggests around 6 degrees BTDC, but that is an enemic setting. Many of these cars are far happier at a 10 - 12 degree BTDC setting.

Good luck, keep us posted. :nice:
 
Everyone's thoughts are good. You could always do what I did with my 67, tossed out the old carb, bought a new one. Bought new fuel lines, fuel pump and fuel tank/sender. Then I knew it was good...bought it costs of course, but worth it in my opinion...(you could also rebuild the carb, but again, I didn't feel like doing that..not to mention I had never done that before.)
 
It occurs to me that a car sitting so long will have slightly rusty bores, and the rings won't be sealing well at all. Is there anything that can be done to help the rings seal? Wouldn't an improvement in compression help a lot?

Or just try to start it and let the rust be worn off and oil gradually work its way around?

edit: misspelled its. I hate when people do that, so I couldn't leave it. :D
 
I just want to get it running to drive it a few miles away to my garage rather than paying for a tow.


Take a 1 gal gas can and prop it up with Bungee cords on the front of your grill. :D They are great for it.
Lenght of hose to fuel pump, See if it will run long enough to move it a round.

Before you clog up the line and filter or carb anymore.

I have got a few running enough to drive onto the trailer and around the block this way. :nice:

PB
 
Thanks
Im going to try it.
I am going to buy a new carb and lines anyways..I just didnt want to install them until after the car is restored..

Ill try real hard tonight to get it running. With some luck I know it will run..
 
After a 5 year nap, you should have pulled all the plugs and poured a quart of ATF into all 8 cylinders, then rotated the crank by hand to prelube the cylinder walls and see if anything was stuck. After that, cranking without the coil wire till the oil pressure came up before actually firing it would have been good. The gas you're smelling is most likely from the accellerator pump diaphram, that's the first thing to rupture when a carb's sat up for a long time. Pull the carb, and change the diaphram, remove the top of the carb ( Autolite 2100 right? ) and clean out the bowl. It should then work long enough to drive it. You can buy a carb kit with the necessary parts to do this from your local parts house, I've bought two kits for these from Advance Auto Parts lately.
 
Lots of good suggestions here for various levels of fixing the problem, but I think some are missing your objective right now.

Im going to restore the car from the frame up. I just want to get it running to drive it a few miles away to my garage rather than paying for a tow.

BTW, just as a heads up, don't get too shocked when you suddenly find out that there is no frame to build up from after you disassemble it all. :p
 
Thanks again.
I did take the plugs out and sprayed lithium grease into the each cylinder before trying to crank it. I hand cranked it a few times before I changed the battery. I have a new Holley carb in the garage..I will blow out the fuel lines and hook up the carb to see if that helps.

The frame is actually good!! Ive been under the car and the inner floor support and floor pans are the only structural pieces that needs changed....I was shocked!
 
Ok.

Need some more help. I got the new intake and carb installed. But the fuel line from tank to fender apron is dry.

The tank has a few gallons of Sunoco 94 in it. Is there a fuel pick up in the tank and is it probably clogged? How do I get to it?

Thanks
 
UNVMATT said:
Ok.

Need some more help. I got the new intake and carb installed. But the fuel line from tank to fender apron is dry.

The tank has a few gallons of Sunoco 94 in it. Is there a fuel pick up in the tank and is it probably clogged? How do I get to it?

Thanks
Try pressurizing the tank with the fuel line disconnected from the pump. If you have an air compressor, just use a blow gun on the hose, and hold your fist around it while sticking it into the filler spout. Should build enough pressure to force the fuel to the other end of the line. If it doesn't, you've got a plugged line.
 
Dang nam it D. Hearne. You sound like my wife. She says "give me some cash" and I take out the trash.

UNVMATT asked how to get to the fuel pick up.

At the front-bottom of the tank you will see a circular ring with hoses going in. Remove the hoses. With only a few gallons of fuel you should not have a problem. Inside the ring you will see a slotted retainer. Use a screwdriver and a hammer and gently unscrew. This will allow you to remove the pick up and clean it.