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How To Release Tension To Replace Serpentine Belt?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Asthmatic Lion
  • Start date Start date Jul 30, 2014

Asthmatic Lion

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Jul 30, 2014
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#1
  • Jul 30, 2014
  • #1
I know, I know basic question. Think I might have a bad idler pulley, intermediate chirping noise and some minor belt fraying. Now am I going to the actual tensioner bolt or the pulley bolt to let up pressure on the belt, on the tensioner is says lift but that doesn't seem to take any pressure off the belt, any tips for my mechanically challenged self?
 

Gearbanger 101

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Jul 30, 2014
#2
  • Jul 30, 2014
  • #2
You want the pulley bolt, not the assembly bolt (where the spring is contained). Stand on the passenger side and pull towards yourself and you'll see the pulley pull upwards, taking the tension off of the belt.

It requires an 18mm socket/ratchet or wrench.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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#3
  • Jul 31, 2014
  • #3
Take a good look at how the belt goes before you remove it.
 

Asthmatic Lion

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#4
  • Jul 31, 2014
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Ok cool, ill try it when I get out of work tonight, yeah its a stock 1990 5.0 alot of diaphragms out there of how belt routed, which ill probably have to look at a few times, lol, once belt is off will idler pulley come off with a regular counter clockwise turn?
 

madspeed

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#5
  • Jul 31, 2014
  • #5
Easiest way to not get confused with the belt routing is to take a pic with your phone before you take the old belt off
 

Gearbanger 101

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#6
  • Jul 31, 2014
  • #6
Asthmatic Lion said:
Ok cool, ill try it when I get out of work tonight, yeah its a stock 1990 5.0 alot of diaphragms out there of how belt routed, which ill probably have to look at a few times, lol, once belt is off will idler pulley come off with a regular counter clockwise turn?
Click to expand...


The bolt is a reverse thread. Clockwise turn will loosen it. Wouldn't hurt to spray it down with a little penetrating oil first though. If that pulley has been on there a while, it could be a little tight.

...it it's the original two piece steel pulley with the three rivets in the middle and belt guides on each side, you might as well order a new pulley instead of trying to change the bearing ifits is bad. You have to drill out the three machined rivets in order to get to it. A real PITA.



Better still, but a while new tensioner. The new tensioner will come with a one piece pulley, with no ridges. And after 25-years, that tensioner spring is bound to be worn out.

 

Asthmatic Lion

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Sweet, maybe I should replace the whole unit, the arrow on the tensioner now is just within range, and the grooves on the pulley I think are wearing my belt, thanks for the help I really appreciate it
 

mikestang63

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Jul 31, 2014
#8
  • Jul 31, 2014
  • #8
Stating the obvious, remove the belt off the tensioner before loosening up the nut on the back. Make sure when you replace it that the little detent on the back of the tensioner is in the hole on the tensioner bracket ( if the new tensioner has the detent). Once everything is put back together, look at the pulley from the side and make sure it is aligned with the other pulleys- water pump, crank.
 
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