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how to tear down and rebuild a trac loc!

  • Thread starter Thread starter jackchan
  • Start date Start date Feb 17, 2006

jackchan

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Feb 17, 2006
#1
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #1
I'm in the middle of a gear install. My 1991 Mustang GT with 8.8 and I get in and find a couple tabs broken off a couple of my clucths in my trac loc. Does anyone have directions on how to rebuild it. I have a rebuild kit from FRPP, and only need a little direction. HELP!
Jack
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
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Dallas, GA
Feb 17, 2006
#2
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #2
Remove the wheels and drums, remove the diff cover, remove the bolt and pin, then use a screwdriver or prybar and pry out the S spring ( carefull not to get hit in the face with it ) push in axels, and remove the C-clips, pull axels out of the differential. Remove the spyder gears, remove the side gears, the clutch packs should be behind the side gears.

Soak new clutches in the friction modifier that comes in the kit. Save the two best looking clutch disc from the assembly (most likley the ones in the middle, and reinstall in the middle going back in) Install first a clutch then a plate, then a clutch, then a plate until you have put in the fourth clutch in on each side, then install most likley the thinnest shim, the side gears, install reverse of removal.

C = Clutch disc
P = Plate
S = Shim



CPCPCPCS DIFFERENTIAL SCPCPCPC

It will be kind of tight, but you want that.
 

jackchan

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#3
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #3
the gear job i can handle, the trac loc rebuild is where I'm catching hell!


yea but how do you get the spring out and get it back in???? that seems to be the hard part! i did it prolly 8 years ago but don't remember how it went back together!
thanks
Jack
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
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Dallas, GA
Feb 17, 2006
#4
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #4
Getting it back in is a MOFO. You just need to keep messing with it.
 

jackchan

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#5
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #5
I guess I will wait until tomorrow, so I can soak the frictions in friction modifier, then I'll have a little more rest too. I have to get a diff seal and the pinion bearing removed anyway....
thanks for the help
Jack

here is a few shots of the trac loc before tear down.
this first picture shows fragments of my clutch tabs that broke off and got chewed up in the spidergears.





Notice only two clutch tabs on this side of the spider gears. The other one is broken off and the clutch friction is slipping within.
 

HardmanGT

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Feb 18, 2006
#6
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #6
when you add the extra clutches you won't have the ears shear off again. It spreads that load over more surfaces and they wear a lot longer.

How do the faces of the spiders look?
 

jrichker

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Feb 18, 2006
#7
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #7
I have seen pictures where a worm gear hose clamp was used to compress the spring. I am not sure how you get the hose clamp out once the spring is compressed and in place.
 

302RollinHard

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Feb 18, 2006
#8
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #8
you can cut it carefully with tin snips, or you can position it so that you can completely back the hose clamp off using the screw. make sure that you have the notched side on the side that you are going to cut should you choose that route. makes it a whole lot easier.
 

RYC CUKR

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Feb 18, 2006
#9
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #9
I just rebuilt my spare t loc the other day.

Here is a link to a write up from Corral.

http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html

The t loc rebuild is about halfway through since it is about a whole gear swap.
 

rsw007

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Feb 18, 2006
#10
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #10
i do it with the carrier out and the ring gear removed. then i line the spring up level and take a 4x4 block of wood and hammer and just drive the spring back in.
heres some info i posted a week ago with pics.http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=615339
 

jackchan

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Feb 18, 2006
#11
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #11
thanks guys for the info. I have to get up to the parts store to buy some gear oil, and a pinion seal anyway, so I'll make sure to soak the clucth disc for at least a couple hours!
thanks
Jack
 

sirr0bin

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Feb 18, 2006
#12
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #12
whats the FRPP part number of the rebuild kit you used? looking for one myself
 

rsw007

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#13
  • Feb 18, 2006
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m4700b i believe
 

RYC CUKR

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#14
  • Feb 18, 2006
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Ford part #M-4700-B
 

sirr0bin

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#15
  • Feb 18, 2006
  • #15
thanks!
 

jackchan

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Feb 20, 2006
#16
  • Feb 20, 2006
  • #16
here is a few more pics from my rebuild. enjoy!

My trac loc rebuild
thanks guys for all the help!
Jack
 

rsw007

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#17
  • Feb 20, 2006
  • #17
nice pics
 

squeeeg

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Feb 20, 2006
#18
  • Feb 20, 2006
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I can't believe that nobody has posted this site yet. This just walks you all the way through the rear end. There is a section on the traction lock

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech001.htm
 

jackchan

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Feb 20, 2006
#19
  • Feb 20, 2006
  • #19
it is posted above. Or I wound up with that link from somewhere else but I think it posted above.

I would have had more pictures but when you have gear oil, and friction modifier on your hands its hard to take time out inbetween working and take more pictures. Heck I went thru a whole role of shop towels as it was lol
I also installed my moroso extended wheel studs. Talk about fun!
Jack
 

TheBocSez

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Feb 20, 2006
#20
  • Feb 20, 2006
  • #20
squeeeg said:
I can't believe that nobody has posted this site yet. This just walks you all the way through the rear end. There is a section on the traction lock

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech001.htm
Click to expand...

Im glad you posted that. Thats the one I used to install my gears. It was very helpful but somewhere along the way, it was removed from my favorites. Now its back.
 
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