soctty7676 said:
If you do this, be sure to hit the parts store first and pick up some extra studs. You can always return them if you do not use them.
My 2 pence.How to tell if I did the MIL Elim right.
- Thread starter soctty7676
- Start date
If you do this, be sure to hit the parts store first and pick up some extra studs. You can always return them if you do not use them.
My 2 pence.
BooWFO
New Member
If you have an exhaust leak you'll throw o2 codes also. I have hte solder in mils work great for me had zero issues out of them. now exhaust leaks and the front o2's UGHHHH. stupid deer carcase.
Ok, checked everything over, re-tightned all exhaust nuts.
I bought a code reader from harbor freight for $39.99 (so I don't have to borrow my friends all the time) and cleared my check engine light. Drove around all weekend and (knock on wood) it has stayed off. We will have to see what happens, but I am hoping this fixes it!
I am pretty sure the solder in MILS are working correctly, I think I was just getting out of the range that they correct for. Probably because of an exhaust leak or something.
I did notice the driver's side header to downpipe bolts were kindof loose. It has moved downward also. I think after hitting the transmission crossmember it "self-adjusted" itself.
I am still dissapointed with the build quality of the MAC H-pipe, it sounds great, but the fitment sucks big time. I emailed them with my concerns, but of course never got a reply. Not even a thank you, sorry, or FU.
Thanks all for your help!
Scott
I bought a code reader from harbor freight for $39.99 (so I don't have to borrow my friends all the time) and cleared my check engine light. Drove around all weekend and (knock on wood) it has stayed off. We will have to see what happens, but I am hoping this fixes it!
I am pretty sure the solder in MILS are working correctly, I think I was just getting out of the range that they correct for. Probably because of an exhaust leak or something.
I did notice the driver's side header to downpipe bolts were kindof loose. It has moved downward also. I think after hitting the transmission crossmember it "self-adjusted" itself.
I am still dissapointed with the build quality of the MAC H-pipe, it sounds great, but the fitment sucks big time. I emailed them with my concerns, but of course never got a reply. Not even a thank you, sorry, or FU.
Thanks all for your help!
Scott
USMstang
Member
What fitment issues are you having? There should be no loose bolts nor should anything move around or self adjust??? Please elaborate.
The issues as far as fitment were:
1. The drivers side midpipe hits the trans crossmember (only about 1/8" clearance). In order to pull it down far enough for clearance, it does not fit quite right up at the header. So what happens is, I nail the engine and the engine/transmission twists causing the midpipe to whack the trans. crossmember and actually "self-adjusts" itself causing my 1/8" clearance to go up to 1/4". So then after it moves down, I have to go back up and tighten the bolt to the header because it has moved. It must be a lot of force because I could not get it to adjust like this by hand. Best way I can describe the way the header and mid-pipe fit together is to think of the "ball and socket" join. If you can put them on straight together, everything fits well and is even. Now, take the mid-pipe and move it down about 15-20 degrees, now it is not a straight connection and tilted down. I know these ball and socket (I think that's what it is called?) compensate for things like this, but it just seems like it is too far.
2. The passenger side hanger was too low by 3/4" and the drivers is about 1/2". This caused me to have to fabricate new insulators because the factory ones were stretched way to far.
3. The mid-pipe was a bit shorter than the stock causing everything back of the mid-pipe to move forward. This is causing my rear bumper to turn black because my tips are about 1" too far in.
1. The drivers side midpipe hits the trans crossmember (only about 1/8" clearance). In order to pull it down far enough for clearance, it does not fit quite right up at the header. So what happens is, I nail the engine and the engine/transmission twists causing the midpipe to whack the trans. crossmember and actually "self-adjusts" itself causing my 1/8" clearance to go up to 1/4". So then after it moves down, I have to go back up and tighten the bolt to the header because it has moved. It must be a lot of force because I could not get it to adjust like this by hand. Best way I can describe the way the header and mid-pipe fit together is to think of the "ball and socket" join. If you can put them on straight together, everything fits well and is even. Now, take the mid-pipe and move it down about 15-20 degrees, now it is not a straight connection and tilted down. I know these ball and socket (I think that's what it is called?) compensate for things like this, but it just seems like it is too far.
2. The passenger side hanger was too low by 3/4" and the drivers is about 1/2". This caused me to have to fabricate new insulators because the factory ones were stretched way to far.
3. The mid-pipe was a bit shorter than the stock causing everything back of the mid-pipe to move forward. This is causing my rear bumper to turn black because my tips are about 1" too far in.
USMstang
Member
scott, what year is she? Man my '04 was a piece of cake. Easily bolted together, just used a friend to help me hold it up while getting it all together.
USMstang
Member
Sounds just like the way mine arrived but I've not crawled under a '98 yet. Anyone else? I'm just guessing but I'm thinking there are two different parts for our year ranges, did you confirm that you have the right part?
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